Kurt H (hoffkm) SL-C build thread

Man..... talk about some progress! I have absolutely nothing of interest to add, other than I think the Brembo circle logo only on the e-brake caliper would look better for some reason. Unsure why, just stood out to the non-builder in me.

I've kicked around sub idea for mine as well, I think may have room under my dash to potentially fit a class-d 5-channel since the Kappas really shine with more power from my experience (albeit 20yrs ago), plus would need a sub amp. I was told about vehicle "micro amps" are even smaller, but haven't looked into them (if they are a new thing). Never tested any amp under the dash, just guessing.
 
Man..... talk about some progress! I have absolutely nothing of interest to add, other than I think the Brembo circle logo only on the e-brake caliper would look better for some reason. Unsure why, just stood out to the non-builder in me.

I've kicked around sub idea for mine as well, I think may have room under my dash to potentially fit a class-d 5-channel since the Kappas really shine with more power from my experience (albeit 20yrs ago), plus would need a sub amp. I was told about vehicle "micro amps" are even smaller, but haven't looked into them (if they are a new thing). Never tested any amp under the dash, just guessing.
Del,

I have the plain Brembo logos also and did not like the "basic" look of just having the logo, personal preference. Everyone is entitle to their own opinion.

I tried to fit my Infinity Reference 4555A amplifier under the dash (4x65 watts plus 500 watts for the sub) but it is WAY to large. It appears it will fit between the seats in some manner (high mount and very visible or low mount and less obvious). I will need to put it on standoffs since there is not a flat area to be had there to mount it to. Under the dash and hidden would be ideal. There is not a lot of free space to "stash" items on this car!
 

Howard Jones

Supporter
Great, just didn't want you to miss that.

I'm still thinking about your lowering the upper front shock mounts. I think you have reduced the available shock travel by the same amount if you maintain the same ride and height spring rate. Watch for shock bottoming out when you start driving it.
 
Great, just didn't want you to miss that.

I'm still thinking about your lowering the upper front shock mounts. I think you have reduced the available shock travel by the same amount if you maintain the same ride and height spring rate. Watch for shock bottoming out when you start driving it.
Howard,

Thank you for the “heads up”. I’ll pull a spring and run the shock/suspension thru it’s full articulation and double check that.
 
Howard,

Thank you for the “heads up”. I’ll pull a spring and run the shock/suspension thru it’s full articulation and double check that.
Howard,

The stock shocks have a surprisingly large amount of travel. I pulled the spring today while working on things and ran it thru full articulation. I have ample travel still to run the tire up thru the bodywork above it.

2021-01-23 15.33.21.jpg

2021-01-23 15.34.25.jpg

I could have went higher but the tire was hitting the wheel well lip of the spider at this point.
2021-01-23 15.35.08.jpg

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Only road testing will tell me if the slight change in geometry has any affect on the handling, I do not think it will.
 
Question for the fellow builders. I have seen some builders leave the triangulated factory cutouts on the doors and others have cut the openings to a radius corner instead of the triangle. Has anyone cut the triangles to a radius and regretted doing so? Is the large section at the top of the door primarily for mounting the hippo mirrors?

Here is the profile I am considering cutting into my doors.

2021-01-23 17.15.34.jpg
 
Question for the fellow builders. I have seen some builders leave the triangulated factory cutouts on the doors and others have cut the openings to a radius corner instead of the triangle. Has anyone cut the triangles to a radius and regretted doing so? Is the large section at the top of the door primarily for mounting the hippo mirrors?

Here is the profile I am considering cutting into my doors.

View attachment 112857
Feedback I’ve gotten is cutting too much in this area makes the door less stiff and may lead to cracking. If you do remove that triangle take a look at adding reinforcement.

Practically, you don’t need to look through that portion of the door and if you put tint on your windows it’s almost impossible to see the shape of your cutout.





If you zoom in on these pics you can make out the shape of the cutout but it’s subtle and with the angle of the roofline and scoop it works well.
 

Howard Jones

Supporter
MIne came cut from RCR like you are considering. In fact, I wish it hadn't and was left like the way yours was delivered. It makes the spider much stronger. The "as delivered" version also provides for an alternate mounting location for mirrors. My advice is to leave it alone and wait until later to decide. Once you cut it out it's gone for good.

Cam's paint method is a very good alternative. I wish I had that option. Ya, I said that once already.
 
Howard,

Yes it does. I think I got "lucky" with my fitment and it was pretty easy to sort out (I did have a lot of help from reading what everyone on here has done before me :) . I did have to shim the body up some as noted above but it fits perfectly. The only issue now is that the shims have raised the lower front portion of the body off of the aluminum side skirts but I will address that issue next. I may just shim the rear of the spider to match the front and then "pull" the sides of the spider down to the side skirts. Have not decided on my final course of action just yet.
Kurt:
Excellent work Kurt , I almost pulled my hair out trying to align the suspension to the frame and the spider, I did move the rear driver wheel out a bit and also moved out the passenger front wheel, I decided against any forward aft movement of the wheels to avoid altering the caster.
Just curious by moving the spider up how did it change your wheel fitment? Last time i Checked the windshield fit, I have about an 1/8 inch gap in both the bottom corners. Cam just filled those gaps with the window epoxy and everything is fine.

good work on the subwoofer and e brake, I am sticking with the factory set up which I know is suboptimal , but just need to move on .

So you are giving me some time to catch up? Good look with the remodeling and happy anniversary, we celebrated our 25th last summer. Good luck to your daughter in college. My daughter got into Rice University in Houston, Dumb ass me told her to get into the best school she could. So I am happy for her but the budget is going to be tight come September, so I better buy all the parts I need and get everything done before then.
 

Neil

Supporter
Connect a nylon tow rope to a bracket such as that or this one with a karabiner and you're good to go. Nylon stretches and reduces the shock of starting off. This characteristic of nylon made it suitable for towing gliders in WW II.
 

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Hector,

I have not gone back and checked all my preliminary chassis setups yet after final fitment of the spider. I am planning to build some wheel cribbing to set the car on it's tires in the air instead of on my jackstands. I will re-check everything once that is complete. I was pretty good before so I am confident the slight change I made to the spider position will not be an issue.

I have already installed an anchor point to my chassis under the front portion of the spider for a "tow hook". It is solidly secured to the central spine of the frame. I just need to drill the hole in the spider to run a lifting eye thru into the anchor. I am waiting to do this until I am absolutely certain of the spiders final resting position.

trailer anchor point.JPG


The tall lifting eye shown above is for anchoring the car in my trailer, the extra height gets the straps up off the hood. If I need to two the vehicle I will use a much shorter lifting eye that will not want to just bend over like a wet noodle.

I also plan to replace the nuts on the rear lower A arm mounting points with clevis nuts to have two anchor points at the rear for towing or tying the car down in my trailer. I have had to anchor it a few times in the trailer already and it is not easy. Some dedicated anchor points will help that.

Another McMaster Carr order is on the horizon!

Neil,

Nylon rope is a great suggestion. I will definitely carry that along in the car when I am at any track days in the far off future.
 
Thank you everyone for the input on the window cutouts. I have not yet made a decision so more input is always welcome if anyone has any.

I just do not like the sharp corners and triangulated edges on the opening when the rest of the car is so fluid with long sweeping radii. The possible loss of structural rigidity is the only factor holding me back from grabbing the body saw and being done with it!
 
One last post before I take a break from the SL-C for a while to remodel our master bathroom in the house.

After fabricating a duct in the top of the spider the body is now final fit into place and my wheel well gaps measure equal all the way around. For my duct I used flat sheet aluminum attached to the underside of the spider with 3M 8115 adhesive and covered in sound deadening. I added another layer of sound deadening overlapping the edge of the aluminum and the spider to insure it was sealed. At the rear I formed a duct into the aluminum since it is sitting nearly flush with the roof of the spider at the rear. I chose this route over the more common fiberglass duct because I am better at working with metal than fiberglass. I have a smaller opening but I believe it will be adequate.

I set the car up on cribbing to put the weight on the wheels instead of my jackstands and re-checked the ride height, toe, and camber. Adjusted the ride height to 4" front, 4 1/2" rear, my camber was still good, and I reset the toe to 1/16" in. I then checked my front end lift and with the adjustment I made to the shock mounts and I have 3 1/2" of front end lift to clear obstacles.

I also have been reading up on how to adjust the tune in the Holley Terminator X and I installed a new tune that is idling better and the throttle response is a lot more crisp.

I also mounted the side splitters. After the success Kyle is having covering his in carbon fiber I plan to do the same with my side and front splitters. I have been considering this and his success pushed me over the edge. (if you are ever in the NW Ohio area Cam Thai feel free to stop in to train me on your expert carbon fiber skinning methods).

A few pics and a Joel inspired walk around video:

2021-01-25 19.36.31.jpg


Not as much opening for air flow as the fiberglass duct but it should be sufficient.

2021-01-27 20.39.15.jpg

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2021-01-30 12.40.59.jpg


 

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Joel K

Supporter
Love the vid Kurt! Your body looks perfectly centered, I hope I can get the same results by shifting the driver‘s side of the tub forward.

I may borrow your air duct approach, I like how the air duct stays above the top of the roll bars instead of laying in between them. Nice work all around. Good luck on the bathroom remodel. Now Hector and I have a chance to catch up! LOL
 
I love to see all the carbon projects, if I can carve out some more time I’ve got a few more ideas I’d like to try out. These projects are never finished but I’ll admit once the car is driving it’s a tough trade between enjoying the car and working on it! Looking good!
 
Kurt:

Great job on the fitment of the clam, not an easy job!!! Just curious how did you make adjustments to the tub position in the forward plane. I have been able to make adjustments shimming against the frame on the lateral plane, and vertical plane, but I don't see how the tub can move to the front or rear based on all the attachment points to the frame. Pardon my ignorance.

Hector
 

Joel K

Supporter
Hi Kurt,

Can you identify what fittings and lines connect from the graziano to the hydraulic clutch line. Looks like the clutch line has a female 3-AN fitting. Any help on this would be appreciated.

Trying to figure out if I have all the parts.

Thanks!
 
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