LBC Build Log - Apex

Seems like I can barely get an hour or more to work on this thing at a time (only to get worse when the baby is born) anyway...

tacking progress...

You can see how much was needed to be cut off from top of picture just to get the seat somewhat centered. That's the big issue with after market seats in these cars (otherwise you're sitting very high which is not possible with roll cage).
Kind of hard to see with these pics but this is the mounting platform we made for the tilton pedals. Underfoot is the only thing that would fit in this car. Gonna have to get a cheapy bending brake to make the false floor.

Passenger side hole's much smaller

Another shot of the completed driver side. Just some primer to keep from rusting until we get to painting. The seat rail supports which are 1/8 steel 90' bends., won't be welded in rather bolted to not weaken the sheet metal.

another shot of the pedal mount.

Also bought one of these today. Should have got this ealier....
I haven't worked on the car for awhile so no updates there, but I did put a rough drawing together of how I might plan to adapt my DBW sensor to my pedals. There's some open questions I have on compatibility. I've gotten mixed answers on whether the LS1 DBW throttle body is compatible with the Haltech elite ECU. If it's not I'll pick up a used LS2 Throttle body probably. But then I'm wondering If I can still use my LS1 sensor with the LS2 TB (I'm afraid not). I don't want to build anything as far as brackets are concerned if they won't work together.
Debated what material I wanted to use for the false floor. Also considered smooth metal and using grip tape but I went with Aluminum tread. At .1" the piece is pretty light. I'm not a fan of the shinny finish, this will be getting a flat bedliner or something similar as the interior is going to be mostly black.

Also got some pieces of metal from RCR that are supposed to be the coilover brackets. Not really sure how they go together yet. This was my first guess but didn't align properly.

One thing I wanted to add. That harbor Freight 36" bending brake was unable to bend that 3003 H22 aluminum tread plate at .1". I had to score the backside to make the bend. The material width was about 22".
I had enough parts that I was going to need to machine that I bought a small metal lathe from Grizzly.

First two parts made...bushings for the suspension and a tube that I"m using to wrap the harness around for the shoulder strap.


Good call on the lathe.

IMHO, a mill and lathe are basic tools right up there with a decent welder. Even a $1500 bench top mill is very useful. A few years back I upgraded to a 10x52 mill with DRO and 14x40 lathe - they both get used regularly on all types of projects (and borrowed a fair amount as well).
The results of the machined parts I posted previously.

This method of mounting the shoulder harness to the firewall along with a schroth 2 bar bracket should be the most compact method of mounting them (I only have about 4 inches).

Haven't worked on the car in over two months because of these two!! but I squeezed in two hours today.

Very happy with the fitment of the custom steering rack I ordered from Maval and the fuel cell from fuel safe...Like a glove!! I'll take some better pics once I start on the brackets for these.

Also Started on attaching the bulkhead to the rear frame

Here's the brackets we made for the steering rack. Probably a little more heavy duty then is needed but it was easier this way.

Also started making the fuel cell cage out of 1" square tubing.
This is just sitting in there (and backwards). But I hope I can squeeze in the fill hose etc under the hood.

Little more work on the fuel cell. Wanted to make the cage removable in hindsight I wish we had just welded the cage in and save the hassle (or thought about the design more). But this will work. Would like to get the top done this weekend.

Also designed this mount in fusion for my brake master cylinder supply lines. Im using Hardline since the reservoir is pretty far away. Part of the problem of underfoot pedals.

Howard Jones

I want to pass on some info that might be of some help. I had originally mounted my peddle box on a piece of 6061 1/8 thick aluminum plate and then added several holes along the sides so I could adjust the front to rear position.

I had to throw that away because it flexed so much under heavy braking that it became hard to modulate the brakes. I then bolted the peddle box (tilton) directly to the floor of my SLC and it was OK. The floor is 1/4 inch thick 6061.

My advice is to use a solid sheet of aluminum 1/4 inch thick and make it as big in area as will fit, bolt it to the floor pan at its extreme corners and then bolt the peddle box through both the aluminum plate and the sheet metal floor. Back the mount bolts on the underside with really big steel flat washers. I used 3/8 grade 8 bolts.

The peddle box squirming around under your foot while you are breaking at the limit is unnerving to say the least.

I really like your build. It's really a great example of a home made high quality hot rod project. Keep up the good work.
I really appreciate the help and support. I've learned a lot from everyone here and we certainly wouldn't be where we are without leveraging everyone's knowledge on this site.
Been trying to design radiator mounts and a fan shroud with the radiator provided by Superlite...probably should have started over with something that fit better, but I should have something soon.

Made a couple of the brake line brackets. Just need to clean them up and make look nice.

More brackets and mounts for the tank

Basically the finished product of the fuel cell mount. It bolts down around the top of the cell. Spent some time closing up the ends of the square tubing too.