Leaky Wilwood Reservoirs

I had seen some posts on this subject but cannot locate them using the search engine. Anyone find a solution or alternative to the problem?
 
I had seen some posts on this subject but cannot locate them using the search engine. Anyone find a solution or alternative to the problem?[/QUOTE

Did you heat up the base before you put it over the Oring? I had that problem and that and a new Oring took care of it.
 
The worm clamps they use are crap. Try installing a better worm champ and use a ratchet with socket to tighten securely versus using a screwdriver. If they still leak then I'd send them back to Wildwood for replacement.
 
Yes. It was Alex's thread. I had the same problem with the clutch reservoir. Even after tightening, it still leaked pretty badly, about one reservoir full every couple hundred miles.


Edit: I recall someone saying that the mold lines inside the res is enough for the fluid to leak down through the junction. Take off the reservoir and possibly file down the inside part of the plastic.
 
Those wilwood reservoirs are pieces of pure shit. Pure shit. I chased them for months determined to make them work and the most satisfying moment was the day i removed them and smashed them with a hammer for all the aggravation they caused me.

Before smashy smashy I even hooked them up on my bench and tried to make them stop leaking outside the car, and failed miserably. Different o-rings, sanding smooth, all sorts of clamps (from worm drive to t-bolt to aero-seal to everything in between)

Tilton 3 piece goooood though. Very good; I used it right off the bat in my 917

3-Chamber Plastic Reservoir - Tilton Engineering


edit: btw, the clamp-on pieces that attach to the master cylinders directly work fine and don't leak a drop because you're sealing plastic on metal, the issue comes w/ trying to seal plastic on plastic
 
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Maybe Fran will take note and add this to his "items that I should change" list.

That's a nice piece.. I take the above comment back.... :idea:
 
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I did the warm up thing, no joy. Looks like I will be contributing to Tilton's bottom line with a purchase.

Thanks for the impossible-to-fix history lesson.
 
The reservoirs come as part of the master cylinder package from wilwood
The wilwood master cylinders are always in stock , tilton master cylinders are not.
 

Dr. David

Lifetime Supporter
I happened to see the Tilton triple reservoir in a catalog just AFTER I had mounted the three Wilwoods and noted how I wish I had seen it sooner. Now that there are reported problems with the Wilwoods, it doesn't seem like an option to switch.

I guess that's what hole plugs are for! Just glue them in with epoxy.

Thanks for the feedback guys!

David
 

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I happened to see the Tilton triple reservoir in a catalog just AFTER I had mounted the three Wilwoods and noted how I wish I had seen it sooner. Now that there are reported problems with the Wilwoods, it doesn't seem like an option to switch.

I guess that's what hole plugs are for! Just glue them in with epoxy.

Thanks for the feedback guys!

David

Is it me or are your remote reservoirs located across from your tire - seems like they would take quite a pounding??
 
The Tilton 3-chamber looks great. Just wondered why it says "FOR RACING USE ONLY". If it's good enough for the track, you'd have thought it was good enough for the road.

I'm thinking of going this route too given all the comments on leaks. Just want to make sure it'd be OK when it comes to testing the car (IVA in UK). I know I'll need to add some float switches for the low level brake warning light, but would be more comfortable if there wasn't a label saying it's only for racing....
 
We use the Wilwoods on all of the GTM's we build. If they leak, the O-ring is either torn or pushed out of it's groove. That's really all there is to it. Heat up the reservoir, lube the O-ring and inside the reservoir and install, you can see thru the reservoir to make sure the O-ring stays put. If it doesn't stay in the groove, it will leak. If it stays in the groove (and is not damaged), it won't leak.....at least I've never seen it here.
 
I happened to see the Tilton triple reservoir in a catalog just AFTER I had mounted the three Wilwoods and noted how I wish I had seen it sooner. Now that there are reported problems with the Wilwoods, it doesn't seem like an option to switch.

I guess that's what hole plugs are for! Just glue them in with epoxy.

Thanks for the feedback guys!

David

David,
What car are you working with there? Is that an LMP1?
 

Howard Jones

Supporter
The reservoirs are not the only issue. The cap/fitting on the other end of hose at the masters is using the same design. I have noticed several other types of masters that have a AN fitting/ solid alum cap in place of the plastic cap and o ring system used on the Wilwoods.

I am going to wait until I get to filling the brakes with fluid before I tackle this issue if I have one. Should I have leaks I going to use different masters and reservoirs.

Here's the Tilton masters;

http://proshop.summitracing.com/parts/til-76-750/overview/

CNC Brakes makes some interesting pieces;

CNC, Inc. - Manufacturers of Quality Pedals and Brake Components

As well as the Wilwood parts below
 

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Dr. David

Lifetime Supporter
David,
What car are you working with there? Is that an LMP1?

Yes Rob, it is.

Is it me or are your remote reservoirs located across from your tire - seems like they would take quite a pounding??

That is the only place the reservoirs will fit, Alex.
 
That's where we recommend mounting them too...we have run ours with no ill effects..but Alex's driveway is riddled with Mousse so he may have a point in the frozen tundra...
 

Dr. David

Lifetime Supporter
For anyone who questions the leakage of a brake fluid reservoir cap, the enclosed photo demonstrates a solution that I have used, and have seen multiple times in the pits, as I am sure many of you have as well.

The addition of a brake fluid level sensor further complicates the situation. (been there, done that)

In Theory, the problem should not exist, but we sometimes push these street-legal cars to close to 200 MPH with extreme later G-forces and Reality comes into play.

Putting the situation in perspective, I am sure F1 does not have this problem, but I would presume that most of us do not have and F! budget!

Its great to know that there are better answers for those who push the envelope. such as AN- and billet fittings that are great, and they don't break the bank. (thanks Howard and Alex)

Sometimes you may just want to put strips of shop towels over the leak, secure with zip-ties, and go out and kick-ass on the competition. Nothing wrong with that either.

Just my opinion,
David
 

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For anyone who questions the leakage of a brake fluid reservoir cap, the enclosed photo demonstrates a solution that I have used, and have seen multiple times in the pits, as I am sure many of you have as well.

The addition of a brake fluid level sensor further complicates the situation. (been there, done that)

In Theory, the problem should not exist, but we sometimes push these street-legal cars to close to 200 MPH with extreme later G-forces and Reality comes into play.

Putting the situation in perspective, I am sure F1 does not have this problem, but I would presume that most of us do not have and F! budget!

Its great to know that there are better answers for those who push the envelope. such as AN- and billet fittings that are great, and they don't break the bank. (thanks Howard and Alex)

Sometimes you may just want to put strips of shop towels over the leak, secure with zip-ties, and go out and kick-ass on the competition. Nothing wrong with that either.

Just my opinion,
David

Maybe not F1 but MotoGP does something very similar!
 
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