Line Routing

Where are you guys entering the cabin with the AC and Heat lines? Also where are you routing the can bus cables? Sorry to ask such low level questions but I want to have it right before I cut holes in the body. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Randy / Rockhopper
 
rockhopper, im running a/c and heat down the passenger chase with in boucnd coolant line. I'm burying the a/c unit half way through the aluminum plate under dsah. shifter cables and dbw do best routed up the central chase thru gas tank. i thought it was better to cut alot of electrical tape out of the dbw, then to splice 8 pretty important wires. i put the main wiring harness down drivers chase..
 
EFNfast where are you cutting in to the cabin for the heat and ac lines? I like not cutting the dbw wiring, how far up the main trunk line did you have to go to get the length you needed?
Thanks Rockhopper
 
Molleur,
Just out of curiousity, why do you say don't cut the DBW. I asked Fran what they did a coup[le of days ago and he told me they extended it. I like the sound of not cutting it but just purchased $110 worth of 7 conductor shielded line from Mcmastercar and don't feel like tearing the harness out of the car unless others have had bad experiences from cutting it.
Rockhopper
 
Molleur,
Just out of curiousity, why do you say don't cut the DBW. I asked Fran what they did a coup[le of days ago and he told me they extended it. I like the sound of not cutting it but just purchased $110 worth of 7 conductor shielded line from Mcmastercar and don't feel like tearing the harness out of the car unless others have had bad experiences from cutting it.
Rockhopper


I sure as heck wouldn't cut it - pretty much every manufacturer of some type of dbw solution (gm, lokar, holley, etc...) all say do not cut it, it introduces too many possibilities of a failure at some point down the road.
 
EFNfast where are you cutting in to the cabin for the heat and ac lines? I like not cutting the dbw wiring, how far up the main trunk line did you have to go to get the length you needed?
Thanks Rockhopper

Rockhopper. its a bit of a pain. i think you have to cut the gm electrical tape out 4 to 5 feet back. but its pretty simple. just pull out a foot or two at a time and reseal it as you go leaving the dbw cables out until you can reach your pedal assembly.
 
Thanks Cam, Fran told me I was too tall for the factory wiring to reach so I clenched my teeth and cut it, I used some heavily shieded wire to extend it and used one of the pins in the connector to bridge the shielding. Hope it works.
 
For What It's Worth:

On sheet (page) 3 of the LS Series Crate Engine Control System, (that came with my 376 control system).

System DOs and DON'TS:

Don't: "Change or alter any wiring in the accelerator pedal or electronic throttle
systems."

I personally wouldn't mess with it. As Cam stated you can pull enough of the DBW out of harness that will easily reach throttle pedal.
 
Hi Everyone

This is my first post on here so please be gentle, im also a Limey....

Ive built quite a few LS powered Ultimas in the UK and we cut and extended the FBW wiring on one of the early builds and had a few problems, what i then did was buy the correct female and male plugs with pigtails from the US and made up a simple little extension lead. It worked great and moving the pedals(brilliant) as you can do in the SL-C will be a lot easier.

I met a few of you in September at Mid Ohio and from now on i hope to be a regular poster, im sure i will be long with some dumb-ass questions
 
Nothing runs through the center beam. You can run shifter cables, wires, etc through the hole in the gas tank as needed.

The tubes for heat, AC and some other things normally run along the passenger side, outside of the interior (but inside the body, obviously).
 
Hello doe's any one have a picture showing the passenger side of the chassis with all the brake / heater / AC / and Rad cooling lines in place?
Thanks,
Grant
 
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