LOLA T70 scratch build...
- Thread starter marcus
- Start date
Attachments
Hello Marcus
Tight fit ????? if I remember ( long years ago !!! LOL) in those bells disc have a lateral play ? Lola did that to prevent disc to do shimy on wheels and also for the drivers to have always a "hardbrake pedal" due to the fact with flotting dics pads are always pusched away at maximun place on the caliper ?
But may be am missing something ?
Tight fit ????? if I remember ( long years ago !!! LOL) in those bells disc have a lateral play ? Lola did that to prevent disc to do shimy on wheels and also for the drivers to have always a "hardbrake pedal" due to the fact with flotting dics pads are always pusched away at maximun place on the caliper ?
But may be am missing something ?
If they are a tight fit the discs will crack/distort when the rotor hats get hot and expands...
Not a really tight fit, they are made to very close tolerances so there was some fettling to be done.
I started by just radiusing the square corners of the brake hats/disc bells so the disc's could start to engage and then gently tapped them together.
Once the car has been run they will free off quite quickly.
Best,
Marcus
I started by just radiusing the square corners of the brake hats/disc bells so the disc's could start to engage and then gently tapped them together.
Once the car has been run they will free off quite quickly.
Best,
Marcus
Glad to see you made the hole's a decent size 
It sure helps when you're trying to fit the tank filler neck in there.
As the other guys have said, the disc's should actually float on the bells, even have a bit of a rattle, but as long as they're not binding they'll soon free up.
Anyway, looking good.
Regards
Darren.
It sure helps when you're trying to fit the tank filler neck in there.As the other guys have said, the disc's should actually float on the bells, even have a bit of a rattle, but as long as they're not binding they'll soon free up.
Anyway, looking good.
Regards
Darren.
Marcus:
You should be able to slide a feeler gauge between the mounting ring and the disc mounting ears. When the disc is tight against the brake hat. Not sure how much float you should have. Usually the manufacturer specifies float.
Also when you mount your calipers you leave room for the disc to expand also.
You should be able to slide a feeler gauge between the mounting ring and the disc mounting ears. When the disc is tight against the brake hat. Not sure how much float you should have. Usually the manufacturer specifies float.
Also when you mount your calipers you leave room for the disc to expand also.
Marcus
Do not expect on the first lapsruns the discs do become loose immediatly , its too bad to risk with an kick overheating to crack one or two front one's
Whe doing the "runout" of new pads and discs you need to apply a long force to the pedal ,during this moment discs comes to temp and if they are not loose they start immadiatly to twist and stress is in !
The day you start to brake hard casting of materail disc having memory cracs will come few by few and more and more ( this is typical to watch when runaout was badly done or if discs where far too tighten
This why some years after in the 80's brakes manufacturer change cast material to fit" solid" on bells but asking specific alu material for bell plus radial cuts on these bells and also an hard anodising of 17 microns thick
Hope this helps
Remember too ;
When doing disc and pad runout place your balance bar brake lot of turns to rear brakes for minimum 3 laps
LOL but from what where you are just a few more rivets needed LOL
Bon courage
Do not expect on the first lapsruns the discs do become loose immediatly , its too bad to risk with an kick overheating to crack one or two front one's
Whe doing the "runout" of new pads and discs you need to apply a long force to the pedal ,during this moment discs comes to temp and if they are not loose they start immadiatly to twist and stress is in !
The day you start to brake hard casting of materail disc having memory cracs will come few by few and more and more ( this is typical to watch when runaout was badly done or if discs where far too tighten
This why some years after in the 80's brakes manufacturer change cast material to fit" solid" on bells but asking specific alu material for bell plus radial cuts on these bells and also an hard anodising of 17 microns thick
Hope this helps
Remember too ;
When doing disc and pad runout place your balance bar brake lot of turns to rear brakes for minimum 3 laps
LOL but from what where you are just a few more rivets needed LOL
Bon courage
