Thanks Bob.
Loose clutch pedal
- Thread starter Bill Miera
- Start date
Thanks Lee. Yes, I'll try that first.
Lee,
I filled the reservoir and had my helper push the pedal down while I opened the bleeder valve. Then I closed it and had her pull the pedal up. We did this several times with no fluid coming out of the bleeder (some came out the first time I did it). I didn't see any bubbles in the reservoir and the level didn't change. Since that didn't work I opened up the access as you suggested. I didn't see any fluid around the master cylinder, lines pinched or any obvious damage. The pedal is pushing the shaft into the master cylinder but it doesn't feel like it is pushing any fluid. Is it time to take out the master?? It looks like I would have to move the steering shaft. Is that correct? Thanks again for your help.
I filled the reservoir and had my helper push the pedal down while I opened the bleeder valve. Then I closed it and had her pull the pedal up. We did this several times with no fluid coming out of the bleeder (some came out the first time I did it). I didn't see any bubbles in the reservoir and the level didn't change. Since that didn't work I opened up the access as you suggested. I didn't see any fluid around the master cylinder, lines pinched or any obvious damage. The pedal is pushing the shaft into the master cylinder but it doesn't feel like it is pushing any fluid. Is it time to take out the master?? It looks like I would have to move the steering shaft. Is that correct? Thanks again for your help.
Lee Patterson
Supporter
Well - it could be your master and it could be the slave. Sometimes a failing master will still let you pump it up, but yours sounds like it has completely failed and fluid is bypassing the piston. I am not familiar with internal hydraulic slave cylinders and personally loath them because in order to determine what might be bad with one, you have to pull the trans and clutch.
I guess you start with the assumption the master is bad and replace it. I would try to remove it and leave the pedal assembly in place. Unbolt it from the mount and pedal and leave the lines attached to it to get it as far out of the car as you can. Then swap the lines to the new one.
What a pain.
I guess you start with the assumption the master is bad and replace it. I would try to remove it and leave the pedal assembly in place. Unbolt it from the mount and pedal and leave the lines attached to it to get it as far out of the car as you can. Then swap the lines to the new one.
What a pain.
Thanks Lee. Yes, I'm really hoping I don't have to pull the transaxle so I'll try and take out the master.
Lee Patterson
Supporter
Make sure you bench bleed the new mc first!!!!!
Before to do this I strongly suggest a last move.
Try to push liquid with a syringue. Syringue will replace your master cylinder. Connect the output of the syringue on the flexible hose that comes from your brake fluide reservoir and try to be sure to avoid leaks. Then with the syringue full, push gently the fluid, do not do any action on the pedal. Refill the syringue if require. The liquide shall go out of the slave cylinder (bleeder is openned or even removed it to be sure). If the liquid goes out it means that your master cylinder is probably dead. But not sure, because it still can be a bleeding problem. After this, reconnect the master on its reservoir and do a bleeding test with your helper. If it works, you solved it if not , your master is shurely dead !
Try to push liquid with a syringue. Syringue will replace your master cylinder. Connect the output of the syringue on the flexible hose that comes from your brake fluide reservoir and try to be sure to avoid leaks. Then with the syringue full, push gently the fluid, do not do any action on the pedal. Refill the syringue if require. The liquide shall go out of the slave cylinder (bleeder is openned or even removed it to be sure). If the liquid goes out it means that your master cylinder is probably dead. But not sure, because it still can be a bleeding problem. After this, reconnect the master on its reservoir and do a bleeding test with your helper. If it works, you solved it if not , your master is shurely dead !
This means: almost certain it is a failing break master cylinder - get an identical unit (identical bore !) - bench bleed it (actually, adding some brake fluid to it should do), install and bleed the system. Once you build up pressure in the system other leaks may appear which then need further attention...
no big deal if you are somwhat ``mechanically inclined" . In this case a rebuild kit for the MC should do. Keep another for a spare.. ... best wishes!
Lee Patterson
Supporter
I believe this is the part you need. Of course confirm the bore is 0.700". Wilwood #260-6088
www.wilwood.com
It's an $82 item.
Wilwood Disc Brakes
MasterCylinder No: 260-6088, master cylinders, aluminum tandem, combination remote, compact master cylinder, go-kart master cylinder, handle-bar master cylinder, rebuild kits, high volume, hvm master cylinder, tandem, bleeding kits
www.wilwood.com
It's an $82 item.