Fran Hall RCR
GT40s Sponsor
I asked after this post came up and was told Olds Aurora but not what specific model year...
Mark B's Build Thread
- Thread starter MarkB
- Start date
Ken Roberts
Supporter
I'll start to look into it and post schematics/pinouts in a new thread. Will this same steering column be used in the GT-R Fran?
Fran Hall RCR
GT40s Sponsor
Yes it is with similar Infinity box wiring (no more I*is branding)
It took me a while to weld up the coolant pipes because I had to practice quite a bit first 
Yes, I also back-purged the pipes.
After I welded them up I hacked together some fittings to pressure test them. Had a few pin holes so back-purged again, fixed, and re-tested. All is well now.
I insulated them with standard pipe insulation. I'm assuming I'll trim off the foam where they go behind the front tires since it will just get ripped up anyway.
Yes, I also back-purged the pipes.After I welded them up I hacked together some fittings to pressure test them. Had a few pin holes so back-purged again, fixed, and re-tested. All is well now.
I insulated them with standard pipe insulation. I'm assuming I'll trim off the foam where they go behind the front tires since it will just get ripped up anyway.
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I've been spending time assembling my engine. I decided to build one rather than going with a crate motor.
It's a de-stroked (3.625) LS7 with ported heads, solid-roller cam, T&D shaft rockers, and a 4-stage dry sump. I got the short block back from the machine shop a few weeks ago so have been working on assembly, brackets, etc.
The intake is a Holley high-ram. Yes, I know it's not going to fit under the window, but I don't care. I'll either leave it exposed or do some sort of cover/scoop depending on how it looks when it's all together. I still need to fabricate an elbow/adaptor for the throttle body since it's still facing forward. It will be tight, but I mocked it up and so far so good...
It's a de-stroked (3.625) LS7 with ported heads, solid-roller cam, T&D shaft rockers, and a 4-stage dry sump. I got the short block back from the machine shop a few weeks ago so have been working on assembly, brackets, etc.
The intake is a Holley high-ram. Yes, I know it's not going to fit under the window, but I don't care. I'll either leave it exposed or do some sort of cover/scoop depending on how it looks when it's all together. I still need to fabricate an elbow/adaptor for the throttle body since it's still facing forward. It will be tight, but I mocked it up and so far so good...
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Can I ask where you sourced the zero weight springs and what the part number is? Not required for the rear?
THere is a link, and an explanation on the wiki: https://slctech-slcbuilderswiki.pbworks.com/w/page/76518080/Suspension
You don't need them for the rear unless you use 4 lift pucks. Most everyone finds the front-only lift is adequate.
Thanks Will - I read most of that wiki before I really even knew what an SLC is! Need to go back through taking notes now that I have a better idea of everything it's referring to.
Ken Roberts
Supporter
Absolutely upgrade the fans. Now's the perfect time. I sold my supplied fans locally for $75.
Last week I ordered the helper springs and collars from Pegasus Auto Racing.
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=1876
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=1877
Last week I ordered the helper springs and collars from Pegasus Auto Racing.
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=1876
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=1877
It's been forever since I posted an update, but progress has been slow and (somewhat) steady
I finished up the motor last year and ran it on an engine dyno. Link to video here: Short Stroke LS7 Dyno again - YouTube
The engine made 675HP@7300, 531TQ@6100
I built it to rev high (redline at 8000RPM) mostly because I just like high-revving V8's, and it also will work well with the Graziano's gearing without a drop gear. I know it's not the most practical setup, but who cares - not much practical about the car anyway
I now have the engine, trans, fuel, wiring, etc all done and was able to do the first in-car start over the weekend. Overall success (i.e. fired right up and nothing expolded). A few bugs to work out now though:
1) pinhole in the radiator, need to pull it and get it welded up
2) Cooling fan not turning on at all -- pretty sure that's just a lose wire
3) small fuel leak at the HP pump fitting that doesn't want to seal. Need to replace the copper gasket
I'll post an in-car video as well as a whole bunch of pics on the fuel system and more later in the week.
I finished up the motor last year and ran it on an engine dyno. Link to video here: Short Stroke LS7 Dyno again - YouTube
The engine made 675HP@7300, 531TQ@6100
I built it to rev high (redline at 8000RPM) mostly because I just like high-revving V8's, and it also will work well with the Graziano's gearing without a drop gear. I know it's not the most practical setup, but who cares - not much practical about the car anyway
I now have the engine, trans, fuel, wiring, etc all done and was able to do the first in-car start over the weekend. Overall success (i.e. fired right up and nothing expolded). A few bugs to work out now though:
1) pinhole in the radiator, need to pull it and get it welded up
2) Cooling fan not turning on at all -- pretty sure that's just a lose wire
3) small fuel leak at the HP pump fitting that doesn't want to seal. Need to replace the copper gasket
I'll post an in-car video as well as a whole bunch of pics on the fuel system and more later in the week.
Still way behind on posting, but here's a quick one. I installed the Driveshaft Shop abs ring on my driver's side inner CV joint. Just heated it with a propane torch and tapped it on.
I then made a bracket to mount both the Koso speed sensor and the GM VSS sensor to read the same ring. It attaches to the CV heat shield bracket.
Hopefully they won't interfere with eachother (worst case I can separate them more). I'll have the ECU reprogrammed to account for the correct pulses per mile.
I then made a bracket to mount both the Koso speed sensor and the GM VSS sensor to read the same ring. It attaches to the CV heat shield bracket.
Hopefully they won't interfere with eachother (worst case I can separate them more). I'll have the ECU reprogrammed to account for the correct pulses per mile.
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Mark. I like that ring. Question. How are adjusting the spacing on the GM sensor?
Finally got around to taking the car to the chassis dyno to have it tuned. Found a few minor issues along the way, but nothing too bad:
1) definitely need bigger fans, already have the Maradynes, just need to install them. Engine temp got up to 240 or so even under light load.
2) need one more heat shield around the shifter cables about 6" before the end. I wrapped the exhaust pipe there, but still had the sheath get a nice big heat blister
3) Throttle is very sensitive at low speeds (big cam doesn't help). I may swap to a smaller throttlebody to help that. Possiblly a better tuner.
I was able to take it around the block after I got it home and off the trailer. Not too far since it was still getting very hot, but it's definitely fun!
Link to dyno videos:
1) definitely need bigger fans, already have the Maradynes, just need to install them. Engine temp got up to 240 or so even under light load.
2) need one more heat shield around the shifter cables about 6" before the end. I wrapped the exhaust pipe there, but still had the sheath get a nice big heat blister
3) Throttle is very sensitive at low speeds (big cam doesn't help). I may swap to a smaller throttlebody to help that. Possiblly a better tuner.
I was able to take it around the block after I got it home and off the trailer. Not too far since it was still getting very hot, but it's definitely fun!
Link to dyno videos:
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Ken Roberts
Supporter
Great videos Mark. Great results! Looks like you are going to need new springs in the back. You will be close to coil bind with suspension movement.
