Mark B's Build Thread

[Mark B.]

Thanks for the responses guys! I thought about going the cover route, but I do really like being able to see the engine without opening the rear clip. I'm starting to play around with carbon fiber for my radiator exit/air duct so that may be an option using the lexan to make a mold. I have to admit I really do like the looks of that Australian grey car. It sounds like you're making more work for me though

 

[Mark B.]

Mounted the headlight covers, tinted side windows, and canards. I'm definitely glad I picked up the tinted windows during the group buy. They look much better in person than in the pics, and visibility is surprisingly good even though they look very dark from the outside. I used riv-nuts and stainless/black oxide screws so they're pretty easily removable. I kept my clear 2-piece windows as well so I can swap them in if I ever want to.

 

[Randy V]

Looking great - I sure hope those side windows are light enough to pass inspection as well as to keep the law off your case!

 

[Mark B.]

Looking great - I sure hope those side windows are light enough to pass inspection as well as to keep the law off your case!

Thanks! I installed them *after* the inspection and since I'm registered as a replica, no annual inspections

 

[Randy V]

Thanks! I installed them *after* the inspection and since I'm registered as a replica, no annual inspections

Very smart! Hopefully the police in your area don't stop and test. They do that sometimes where I live in Texas.

 

[Mark B.]

I decided to pull the body back off to install better cabin insulation. It was a one-man job by necessity so I was able to use my lift to lower the car from the body while the body was supported by braces. Now I'm working on close-out panels and insulation before I drop it back on.

 

[Ken Roberts]

Many of us fasten the various polycarbonate windows with plastic screws. This is a tip to help prevent cracks developing from the expansion and contraction that occurs with temperature change. The screws will bend slightly with the movement.

Thanks for filming the removal of the body Mark.

 

[Kyle]

That’s great. The video makes it look easy but I know it’s a pain tracking everything down that is attached to the body.

One thing I purchase from RCR which is an absolute must is the new 90 degree rear clam hinge. It rotates back 90 without ever touching the ground. So much more room to work.

 

[Mark B.]

Many of us fasten the various polycarbonate windows with plastic screws. This is a tip to help prevent cracks developing from the expansion and contraction that occurs with temperature change. The screws will bend slightly with the movement.

I was wondering about plastic screws, but was afraid how durable they would be -- particular with track usage. Any issues with them breaking?

 

[Neil]

I was wondering about plastic screws, but was afraid how durable they would be -- particular with track usage. Any issues with them breaking?

Standard aircraft practice when attaching plastic (Lexan, Plexiglass, etc) windows is to drill the mounting hole in the plastic slightly oversize. This way the oversized hole allows the window to expand laterally and not cause distortion or cracking.

 

[Mark B.]

That’s great. The video makes it look easy but I know it’s a pain tracking everything down that is attached to the body.

One thing I purchase from RCR which is an absolute must is the new 90 degree rear clam hinge. It rotates back 90 without ever touching the ground. So much more room to work.

Thanks! Yea replacing the tail hinge is on my list -- I hate the stock hinge. I'll either pick it up from RCR or weld one up down the road.

 

[Randy V]

Using pan-head plastic screws will also help prevent the cracking of the lexan. You can purchase very low profile ones that are not too proud of the surface.

 

[Mark B.]

Got the close-out panels, bit more Dynamat, and went over every inch of sealing everywhere to make sure I don't have any remaining interior air leaks -- except for the doors since I don't have door seals on yet. Body is back on and will be taking it back out this weekend for some more driving! I'll post another video with more detail in the next day or two as well.

I cut the close-out panels from 1/32 aluminum. Screwed and silicone sealed to the chassis, then silicone to the interior tub and sandwiched it with the tub by crimping the rivnuts through both (for the bolts that connect the tub to the body). Even though it's very thin aluminum it's very rigid once it was all screwed together.

I also decided it was going to take too long for me to get a different panel laid out to replace the rear glass and cover my intake, so I went the faster route (I want to drive, dammit!). I cut out a section to clear the intake and I'm actually pretty happy with how it turned out. I still need to clean up the edges a bit, but the shape flows well with the intake and still looks pretty clean since the intake is already black. Looks better in person than in the pics because of all the glare from my garage lights. If you don't like it I don't want to hear about it

 

[Joel K]

Mark,

Congrats on getting the body back on with the windshield in place. Glad it all worked out and nice work on the close out panels. Looking forward to more SLC driving reviews!

 

[DaveC]

I like the hatch. Finish the cut edge with some U-channel?

 

[Ken Roberts]

Don’t forget to remove the cap from the fuel regulator vacuum fitting. It supposed to be left open if not vacuum referenced.

 

[Mark B.]

Thanks guys! Good idea on the c-channel. I'm going to try to sand/polish the edge and see how that looks but the trim may end up looking better.
Good eye, Ken! The cap has a hole in it for venting, I just wanted to have the hole facing down so no crap accidentally getting in there from the side.

 

[Mark B.]

Video update:

 

[Mark B.]

I was able to get the SLC out for a couple nice drives this past weekend. Quick update:

• The body sealing definitely helped a lot. Noise is down and exhaust smell is almost non-existent now.
• After the first drive I added some basic door seals -- I was surprised that helped just as much as all of the other seals! Particularly the top rear corners of the doors. I still need to align the doors a bit better and add more seals, but it's now drivable without getting headaches/cancer
• Some creaking coming from the doors and rear clam where I need to do some alignment / body sanding, but way less than before.
• I'm very happy I went with the tinted windows, helps with the sun, of course, as well as people recording/taking pictures.
• I really need new tires -- the ones on there are from late 2013 when the chassis was being built at RCR (back when I thought it was going to be a two-year project, forgetting that I had a job, kids, new business, etc. ) They spin at anything over 30% throttle. They even spin if I go much over 50% at highway speeds. I'm eyeing a set of Nitto NT01's this spring.
• Engine tune is much better now that I sorted out the idle/coast-down stalling issue. I do need to re-learn driving stick at low speeds though. Clutch engagement is great, but since I have stock Graz gearing, my brain says 'shift to 2nd when making a turn' and the Graz says 'that's not going to work, you really need 3rd!' I'm still happy with the gearing since my engine was built to rev, but I need to get used to it.
• I didn't get any video yet since I don't have a camera mount in the car -- hence my Sunday afternoon project:

I hate suction cup mounts (it's just me -- I'm weird) so I cut/welded up a small bracket from scrap 1/4" aluminum that bolts to the rear of the tub/header panel between the seats with a standard 1/4" hole for a camera mount. Puts the camera right at head-level. I painted it black to blend in since I'm just going to leave it in all the time.

 

[Del]

Some awesome progress!!

If you're going to leave the camera mount in there, if it's not too late may be worthwhile hardwiring the camera as well or add a flush USB port? With USB can use any kind of camera or if you upgrade in future. Personally would consider a dash cam for the spot (or one that works similar) with SD card and just let it record everything while driving. Plus if something on a drive and you'd like to get a clip of it, it's recorded already.