Mark
Very clean dash. Well done.
:thumbsup:
Very clean dash. Well done.
:thumbsup:
Mark's GT-R Build
- Thread starter mksetter
- Start date
Ken Roberts
Supporter
Thanks for the suggestion Ken. They have amazing fabrication capability. I may be able to get some ideas, but certainly like seeing what a finished car looks like.
Cool build thread Mark. Stopped by H's shop yesterday and saw his GT-R build on my way back from missing Fran and the new Superlite Aero at Road ATL. The fab work on H's GT-R is unbelievable. He's done some incredibly brilliant things to his build and I was floored at his eye for design and just plain love/passion for bespoke fabrication.
After I got the fuel delivery system all mounted, I removed the lateral heat shield, removed all of the mounted hardware and wanted to put an finish to the metal surface that was available. I used Ballistol and medium steel wool to get a satin finish. The middle picture shows half of the surface prepped. The finished product looks much better.
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Since I am probably mounting the lateral heat shields for the long term, I can start adding the "inside" features. I am running a modified LS3, but want to have remote mounting of the coils to look less like an LS motor, so I am mounting them on the forward lower aspect of the inside of the heat shield. They will be about nine inches from the exhaust system and I plan to have air deflectors under the car to get air into the area. Here you can see the coil rack provided by Katech, mounted prior to the heat insulation being applied (middle picture), then after the Second Skin heat barrier.
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Based on the awesome recommendations of this forum, I utilized steel backing plates for the five point harness. I wanted them to match the look of the firewall, so I covered them in Lava Shield. I also used Lava Shield over the Second Skin heat barrier on the inside of the lateral heat shields to maximize heat containment. Just a few more details to do in the engine area and I can put the motor back in.
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The appearance of the engine area is very important to me in this build. One of the areas that has bothered me is the adhesion of the Lava Shield in one area of the firewall. I have attempted to get better adhesion with a heat gun and have re-seated the Lava Shield a number of times.
To solve the problem, I decided to make a trim piece that would screw in place a dress this area properly. An aluminum strip, cut to fit, polished and screwed in place solved the problem.
Almost ready for the motor.
To solve the problem, I decided to make a trim piece that would screw in place a dress this area properly. An aluminum strip, cut to fit, polished and screwed in place solved the problem.
Almost ready for the motor.
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Another area requiring some dress-up is the edge of the lateral heat shield, where the Second Skin Heat Shielding and the Lava Shield layers show.
Using 1" X 1" aluminum angle, I cut to shape, trimmed, polished with steel wool and screwed in place trim pieces on each side that make these areas look finished.
Next I am headed to the front area to get the brake lines finished.
Using 1" X 1" aluminum angle, I cut to shape, trimmed, polished with steel wool and screwed in place trim pieces on each side that make these areas look finished.
Next I am headed to the front area to get the brake lines finished.
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Mark,
I like how you have your lift positioned in the corner. Great use of space.
I like how you have your lift positioned in the corner. Great use of space.
For not knowing anything when I was designing the space, the layout has worked well for building the GT-R.
The GT-R was shipped with some perfectly bent stainless brake lines, including the shorter lines that go from the foot box wall to the tunnel, but unfortunately they did not have provision for the front and rear residual pressure valves or the pressure indicator switches for the brake lights or the clutch. Kristin and Josh at RCR tried to solve the problem by sending me some lines that would allow for the residual pressure valves that came with the car to be installed, but me being the novice, I could not get those valves to work. The additional lines also did not have provision for the pressure switches.
I think I might get the ugly brake line award, but rather than try to flare my own custom brake lines, I chose to use pre-made copper nickel lines that come flared. The only problem is that they come in 12 inch lengths.
That being the case, I designed the brake lines using only 12 inch lines, thus the odd looking system. Not being able to get the provided valves to work, I got some novice approved Wilwood valves that worked great. I had to make a support bracket for the helix end, but it has no vibration at all.
Some parts of the build you are proud of. Other parts simply get the job done.
I think I might get the ugly brake line award, but rather than try to flare my own custom brake lines, I chose to use pre-made copper nickel lines that come flared. The only problem is that they come in 12 inch lengths.
That being the case, I designed the brake lines using only 12 inch lines, thus the odd looking system. Not being able to get the provided valves to work, I got some novice approved Wilwood valves that worked great. I had to make a support bracket for the helix end, but it has no vibration at all.
Some parts of the build you are proud of. Other parts simply get the job done.
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The chassis is almost ready to get the motor put in, so I am getting the motor modifications done. The way I want it to look requires some help from the guys at Mannix Automotive, next door to my shop. We decided to use -20AN fittings for the output side of the water pump, milling an access, then using the original hole for a thermostat. The photo shows the milling results, with a nice clean opening that looks to ideal for flow. The -20AN fitting fits perfectly. Now ready for welding. We plan to use the same size -20AN fitting on one of the stainless coolant tubes. The return side is not really visible, so we plan to use flex tubing, along the lines of that used in Allan's GTR build.
A plate will be welded to close off the original output hole, the it will be drilled and tapped for a thermostat sending unit. We are going to hold off on the modification for the return to the water pump until the motor is in the car, so we can make sure we have it right.
A plate will be welded to close off the original output hole, the it will be drilled and tapped for a thermostat sending unit. We are going to hold off on the modification for the return to the water pump until the motor is in the car, so we can make sure we have it right.
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Completing some steps seem to take a lot of work, yet you don't really feel you got that much done, such as the brake lines. Other steps don't really take much work, but you really feel a milestone has been accomplished. That is the case with mounting the front end. It took a lot to get to this point, having the tunnel contents either in the tunnel or completely mocked up so there are no surprises. It was a little tricky doing this single handed, but it went in place just like it should.
Now comes designing the layout for the contents of the front end - the battery, the lift pump, the coolant lines, the AC dryer and associated parts, all keeping in mind the front hood "nostrils" will take up some space.
This is the perfect hobby. Working with your hands and your mind.
Now comes designing the layout for the contents of the front end - the battery, the lift pump, the coolant lines, the AC dryer and associated parts, all keeping in mind the front hood "nostrils" will take up some space.
This is the perfect hobby. Working with your hands and your mind.
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This is the perfect hobby. Working with your hands and your mind.
Yup, anybody can tighten a bolt down. Takes an entirely different person to design the parts being bolted together.
It certainly becomes addicting.
Looking good!
Yup, anybody can tighten a bolt down. Takes an entirely different person to design the parts being bolted together.
It certainly becomes addicting.
Looking good!
Scott, you have taken this hobby to an entirely different level. Your car is AMAZING!!!! From the air intake to the body work, I stand back in awe of your knowledge and skill. Thank you for your contribution to each of our builds.
Thanks for the compliments Mark. I have yet to decide if it is a curse, or blessing. I have to do it to keep my mind busy personally, not a choice really. That, and the "if you don't have time to do it right, how will you have time to do it over" mentality.
Youtube wasn't around 29 years ago when I started working on my 67 Camaro at 15 yo, nor parts selection. Remember when you could only get decent parts from local parts stores or mail order from a magazine? Really limited what you could do. Now, with the internet, it has exploded with small parts manufacturers and a huge selection of assembly parts with easy access to find. Great time to be a car guy!
I got the water pump back after the -20AN fitting was welded into place. The old water pump outlet was closed with a flat plate, then drilled to serve as the new coolant temperature sensor location. The welding looks great.
I am also changing the GM steam tubes over to -4AN braided lines, so I started that conversion. I am waiting on accessory drive belts, then can put the engine together and get tit installed.
I am also changing the GM steam tubes over to -4AN braided lines, so I started that conversion. I am waiting on accessory drive belts, then can put the engine together and get tit installed.
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Before putting the engine in place, I wanted to get everything possible completed in the firewall area and the area between the lateral heat shields, so the heater control valve that I got from Chevs of the Forties needed to get installed. The size of my Cross Ram Air Intake basically makes mounting anything on the firewall between the heat shields not an option. The passenger side lateral area seemed to work well.
I am awaiting the "T" for the 5/8 heater hose line, then will finish this.
I am awaiting the "T" for the 5/8 heater hose line, then will finish this.
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Keeping with the theme to have many things going at once, I decided to start on the air conditioning system. The first item is rotating the coolant line fixture as illustrated in the build manual. Going slow and careful is the key so as not to damage the copper line attached to the fixture needing rotation.
As you can see in the photos, the heater hose attachments are directed outward towards the passenger wheel well, so I had to mount the AC unit slightly towards the middle to make room for the heater hoses.
To increase air flow, I connected the holes from the factory to make one continuous opening. The AC unit was narrower than the spread of the holes, so the hole from the factory most to the passenger side will not be used.
After cutting the slot and mounting the AC unit, I marked the opening and cut out the slot in the AC unit. This is easy.
As you can see in the photos, the heater hose attachments are directed outward towards the passenger wheel well, so I had to mount the AC unit slightly towards the middle to make room for the heater hoses.
To increase air flow, I connected the holes from the factory to make one continuous opening. The AC unit was narrower than the spread of the holes, so the hole from the factory most to the passenger side will not be used.
After cutting the slot and mounting the AC unit, I marked the opening and cut out the slot in the AC unit. This is easy.
