Mitch Krause's RCR GT40 Build

Markus

SPRF40
Lifetime Supporter
I think I have the shifter and shifter cables done and sorted out.

The shifter in the cabin has a throw that is from 1 inch to 7.5 inches from the dash without any of the cables connected. After much setting of the various adjustments on the cables, I have it to where first (and any gear with forward throw) gear is 2” from the dash, neutral is 4” from the dash and second is 6” from the dash. That seems to be about centered and leaves an inch or 1.5 inches on each side if I have to adjust.

The shifter has a side to side thrown of about 14 degrees (relative to the shifter support box) from vertical both left and right. Right now, it is in reverse at 13.5 degrees to the right, first at about 10 degrees to the right and third at about 3 degrees to the right. This is obviously biased towards the right, I had fooled around a little bit and ended up liking the rightward bias a little bit, as it goes into reverse easily (the most right), and leaves me some room to find 5th (I haven’t found that yet).

With an inclinometer on the end of the transmission, and zeroed at neutral. The transmission shaft rotates about 7 degrees counter clockwise to get into reverse and about the same clockwise to get into the higher gears.

As far as securing the shifting cables, each one is secured at three points. The first picture shows the front securing of both cables, onto the square tube behind the cabin, basically just aft of where the cables come out of the firewall.

The second picture is the mid securing point for the big cable. Low on the frame at the front of the engine.

The third picture is the mid securing point for the rotational cable. On top of the frame about at the back of the engine.

The fourth picture shows the back securing point for both cables (with help of little red arrows). I put a couple of braces in that do a few things. They firm up the engine oil cooler, provide mounts for the transmission oil distribution and provide points at which to secure both shift cables.

Last picture is everything hooked up at the rear of the transmission.

Hi Mitch,

I just went through the pics regarding your shift cable routing in post #295..... based on past experience some bent radius' seem very tight to me.

Have you tried to move the shifter with the cables connected to it? Or just move the cables by themself?

Markus
 

Mitch Krause

Member
GT40s Supporter
This has been a week long endeavor. Had some interference between ac lines off the compressor and the radiator hose off the water pump housing. So had to redesign and fabricate new brackets. Needed to move the ac 7/8 rearward to give full range of adjust and line up front ac pulley with engine pulley. Move the ac up an inch, and the make a new adjust bracket. Trim the flange on the ac about 3/8 to get alignment and lots of fooling around. Four different tries at the adjust bracket until I had it spot on. All is well now but this was lots of cutting, figuring and grinding. Two trips to the store until I could get the right size belt that was nearly tight at front of adjust. 36 and 5/8 belt length.
 

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Mitch Krause

Member
GT40s Supporter
Hi Mitch,

I just went through the pics regarding your shift cable routing in post #295..... based on past experience some bent radius' seem very tight to me.

Have you tried to move the shifter with the cables connected to it? Or just move the cables by themself?

Markus
Markus,

Thanks for the note, I was concerned with the same thing, but that was the only way to get the cables routed so that the cleared everything else (ac pump and headers). It seems to work, I have everything attached to the shifter and it shifts pretty easily and fluidly, so fingers crossed that continues to be the case when it gets some real use. The only other real option I could see was to route them very low to start so that they went below the belts, but then the problem was that there was no attach points. There was a little less initial bend radius that way, but then more bends as you had to come back up and around the motor mounts and oil filter.
 

Mitch Krause

Member
GT40s Supporter
My solution to getting spray nozzles in the transmission connectors. The holes in the aluminum connectors were just slightly smaller than 5/16 inch. So drill out to 5/16. Tap them to 3/8 by 16 thread size. Turn in a nylon bolt (3/4 inch long hex head) about 1/2 deep which is where my threads end. Put red loctite on the threads before turning in the bolt. Cut the bolt off flush with the end of the connector. Center punch it. Drill 1/8 inch hole through bolt and walla you have a 1/8 inch spray nozzle.
 

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Mitch Krause

Member
GT40s Supporter
Just so I can attach one more picture. Most recent has been getting the clutch installed and then getting the oiling systems, coolers and everything else back in place. Biggest pain was a few days of in and out with the dogbone as I had to grind some on the transaxle ridges, some on the competition cover and mostly on the dogbone to get the clearance so it went in place. But everything working out nicely and I think this is the last time this stuff goes in. As per the previous post, I am doing the last little bit on the transaxle oiling system (the nozzles as they are).
 

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Mitch Krause

Member
GT40s Supporter
One slight change on the oil nozzles. Had not quite finished when I posted before. Decided to use oil resistant black RTV on thread instead of loctite. Can’t quite figure out if loctite is ok for nylon or not.
 

Randy V

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Admin
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One slight change on the oil nozzles. Had not quite finished when I posted before. Decided to use oil resistant black RTV on thread instead of loctite. Can’t quite figure out if loctite is ok for nylon or not.
Why use any compound at all. It sounds like the nylon is trapped in there pretty good... If you really want to use something on it, I would use Right-Stuff...
 
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