Yep, will be securing them at some point and tying them off to the frame or car at some point. Just had them loose for now, removed them after the picture as I still have some other things to do and will have to at least take the tranny if not the engine out one more time before final.
Got most of the transmission pump, filter, cooler and oiling lines done. Got all the brackets made and things mounted. Only waiting on a couple of swivel npt 90 degree to an6 connectors to finish up. Never imagined how many different connectors, taps and things like that were required overall for a build like this or how much time and energy to source them and continually adjust (need a 45 npt to an10 instead of the 90 npt to an10 that I thought would fit and things like that).
Looking good, just one question, did you place the filter before the pump inlet? I f not you should re-plumb it so that it can protect the oil pump as well as the transaxle. Since it is a positive displacement pump it does not take a very big particle to lock it up.
Rick. Thanks. I was considering that right away, maybe I should rethink again. My final thought was that with the pump being about at the bottom of the tranny, it would be primed and ready to go all the time, I was worried that if I went to the filter first, since that had to be a little bit uphill, it had the chance of losing that. Not a big consideration, but with that and it just looking a little cleaner with the way things had to fit from a standpoint of plumbing, I went pump first.
Oh, one thing I wanted to mention but forgot to include was the distribution manifold that I am using. I looked at many different things, most any ready made manifold had barb fittings, so short of making something like Rick did, I was at a loss. Then one day I found a company called Pneumadyne in one of my many searches with different terms about manifolds, oil distribution, etc. Turns out they are actually local to Minneapolis, and they had a nice selection of oil distribution manifolds, so I am going with one of those. Like $16 bucks for an aluminum manifold with two 3/8 npt input ports (one each end) and 6 output ports (1/4 npt). On the one I got, the output ports are spaced 1.5 inches apart. Then just get a few npt to AN fittings (AN8 for input and AN6 for output) turn them in and good to go. A nice inexpensive solution I thought as well as it looking nice.
A new use for "old" things. So I ran my transmission pump today with only a couple of hoses attached. I started with clean new transmission oil and when I was done, noticed a few black particles and some shiny ones in the oil and thought "geez, that could only have come from my hoses". I had blown them out after cutting the braided hoses and thought I was being careful to keep things clean. Then decided that I would have to run a moist paper towel through all the hoses to make really sure they were as clean as I can make them. That didn't work out well, I spent a lot of time getting the wet paper towel out of the hose. I thought, "Gee if only there was some sort of a long thin rod that I could attach a cleaning patch to and run it through my hoses, I would get them really clean". And then it hit me.....see picture. It worked very well. A 3/8 hose is about the same size as a .38.....
Call this Transmission Oiling System Redesign. After I had everything on the left side of the car, which I think was a more aesthetically pleasing arrangement with Transmission Oil on right side and engine oil on the left side, I reconsidered. I was not happy with the transmission taps being just on the left side of center and canted slightly upwards, as what happens is that nearly all the lines run underneath both exhausts as well as the fact that a couple of the lines were less than 1/4" of the exhaust. So I changed tactics and moved the oil distribution block to the left side of the car. See first picture, that now leaves me with at least 3/4" exhaust clearance on all lines except that one that had to be a 90 hose end (that is about 5/8) and instead of running under both exhausts, they only run under one. The line runs from the distribution block to the tranny (the AN6 lines) are all shorter, the line from the cooler to the distribution block (AN8) has to increase from about 1 foot long to 4 feet long. I did take the earlier comments about putting the filter before the pump to heart and changed that. Was tranny, pump, filter, cooler, distribution block and back into the tranny and is now tranny, filter, pump, cooler, distribution block and back into the tranny. First picture shows all really well, the second picture is with the mufflers in place, the third is a side view showing new clearances. The fourth shows just how tight one of the connections is. This tranny tap is between two supports molded in the tranny housing, underneath the muffler support and right next to the shifter bracket support. So the solution was a 3/8 MNPT swivel fitting to 90 degree AN 8 hose swivel fitting to make it just enough that I could get the thing in place (by turning the MNPT end) and thread it out past everything.
I think I have the shifter and shifter cables done and sorted out.
The shifter in the cabin has a throw that is from 1 inch to 7.5 inches from the dash without any of the cables connected. After much setting of the various adjustments on the cables, I have it to where first (and any gear with forward throw) gear is 2” from the dash, neutral is 4” from the dash and second is 6” from the dash. That seems to be about centered and leaves an inch or 1.5 inches on each side if I have to adjust.
The shifter has a side to side thrown of about 14 degrees (relative to the shifter support box) from vertical both left and right. Right now, it is in reverse at 13.5 degrees to the right, first at about 10 degrees to the right and third at about 3 degrees to the right. This is obviously biased towards the right, I had fooled around a little bit and ended up liking the rightward bias a little bit, as it goes into reverse easily (the most right), and leaves me some room to find 5th (I haven’t found that yet).
With an inclinometer on the end of the transmission, and zeroed at neutral. The transmission shaft rotates about 7 degrees counter clockwise to get into reverse and about the same clockwise to get into the higher gears.
As far as securing the shifting cables, each one is secured at three points. The first picture shows the front securing of both cables, onto the square tube behind the cabin, basically just aft of where the cables come out of the firewall.
The second picture is the mid securing point for the big cable. Low on the frame at the front of the engine.
The third picture is the mid securing point for the rotational cable. On top of the frame about at the back of the engine.
The fourth picture shows the back securing point for both cables (with help of little red arrows). I put a couple of braces in that do a few things. They firm up the engine oil cooler, provide mounts for the transmission oil distribution and provide points at which to secure both shift cables.
Last picture is everything hooked up at the rear of the transmission.
I am declaring victory on the final layout and hose routing for the transmission pump, cooler, filter and injection lines. Got the last connectors and cut and attached the last hoses. First pic is final with “bare” braided hoses. Second one shows routing from bottom of transmission to filter and pump. Third one is after I have the heating shield wrap on the lines that are closest to the exhaust. Not sure I need that anymore since I moved to the other side, but better safe than sorry
The primary reason that I did this to my G50/50 was to ensure that the transaxle was properly lubricated since it had been flipped and was not designed to run inverted (adding excessive oil is not a proper solution either). I like to run my GT40 hard on the track from time to time and the oiling system helps to remove heat from the transaxle and extend it's life. Some may say that it is a bit much for a car that is not a devoted track car but cooling and spraying the oil where it is needed can only help the transaxle, so why not do it.