Today's update comes to us from the "Oh so you think it's smooth" file. Otherwise known as put it on & sand it off LOL I started the prime & sand phase on the first fender. The rear section I got the tail light frames cut out & started priming & sanding. They're a lot easier to sand the inside edges when it's off than after attaching them. The rear panel I've filled & primed & sanded smooth (also easier to sand than with the frames on). I got round lights to keep with the period look. The lower part of the frames will be cut out & screen in them. Most of the center section will too, the flat part is mainly to form a flange to attach the screening & will get cut out.
Ian yeah those are nice & probably would have gotten ones like that (I like the chrome trim too). If I'd seen them before buying the ones I have. I may but a polished aluminum panel behind them. Or maybe have it anodized gold to match the paint I'm planning for the car Black (with blue pearl) with gold stripe & trim. Sort of a nod to the John Player cars. The interior will be Blue & black trim.
Pierre yes I think it'll look the part of a Can-Am type car. Will probably get taller stacks too. I chose the valve covers for the Offenhauser name. Lomg time associated with racing engines & speed equipment. Would have loved to find a set of Traco ones though. The Tracos were the same engine only from Olds instead of Buick. As in the early Mclarens & will use one if I decide to build a Mclaren M1b (thinking about it for my next project LOL).
Ok I decided to get other red tail lights LOL These have the chrome rings & are double element bulbs. I hadn't payed much attention when I ordered the other ones (not uncommon for me LOL) they are only 2 wire single element bulbs. The yellow ones took off the front of the car (turn signals) are the same dia. & have the chrome base too. So they'll go together just fine.
Oh it's a lovely day in the neighborhood, we have tiltage !!!!!!!!!!!!!. I reached one of those mile stone you think will never come. I cut loose the nose so it can pivot or be removed. I'd put two heim/rose joints beneath the radiator & made brackets that bolt to the underside of the nose when I was making up the radiator mount. So now I can pull it off (two ball lock pins) & work on the lower side without needing to get down on my hands & knees LOL Besides gravity doesn't like to let fiberglass mat stick to the undersides of things. Kind of a mess with all the fiberglass & bondo dust LOL You can see where I've added foam to get the contours I wanted. So tell me what ya think?
Been working on the nose this week. I didn't like the "Chevron happy car" look or the angularity. So I added about 5" to it & completely reshaped it. Remade the headlight buckets, made them longer & deeper so I can put a turn signal light under the head light. Also building a ledge for the head light cover to sit on. There will be a round air intake on either side of the radiator opening. For fresh air intake for the cock pit. But I may wait to do that until after I make the permanent nose piece.
Nose is coming along. Got the chin area in good shape with two coats of primer. Finalizing the shape of the radiator opening & making sure there is angle (draft) to it. So the mold will come out ok. Working on the top back to the air outlet & headlight buckets. Also need to be sure the mold will come out of them too LOL A lot of details you have to be mindful of before making a mold. Sure would hate to do all this work & not be able to get it out LOL
Well got the first coat of primer on the nose this evening. Still have some detailing to do around the headlights & air exit. Going to need to pick up some glazing putty tomorrow. Put it back on the car. Finalize the wheel arch shapes. Then do the roll around them. A whole lot of sanding & priming to get it perfect & time for the mold making.