Ken thanks for the reply. This is actually the lower control arm with the billet aluminum cup inside the tub for the lower rear control arm heim. i'm thinking to leave it alone as opposed to destroying something. In the manual it does say the washers are suggested which leads me to believe I should be ok. This is a street car that will see occasional track day time. I was wondering if anyone had a bad experience with not using washers.
New owner!
- Thread starter Godspeed
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Under the circumstances, I'd mark the bolts to make it easy to check if they were backing out, and make it a part of a pre-drive check to give them a glance.
Thats what I'll do. I was torqueing everything and paint marking fasteners when I ran into this. Thanks
Okay I believe I just entered an alternate universe. I took my Porsche G96/01 transaxle off my LS3 that has a G-Box adapter. I wanted to check the flywheel and pressure plate bolt torques. I removed the trans with trepidation because I knew it would prove to be a challenge to align the clutch disc and pilot bearing for reassembly. You are probably thinking I threw it back together sucessfully on the first try. But NO! There I stood admiring the G-Box adapter and flywheel when I remembered I had few old input shafts in the bottom drawer of my tool box. Thinking I picked up and old VW input shaft I was surprised when it slipped into the clutch disc splines perfectly. Oh well a Porsche and VW have the same input shaft splines I thought. Then I measured the nose of the shaft and again they were exact. Well I thought those boring Germans just use the same input shaft dimensions on their transaxles. BUT NO! The shaft is marked XX Ford 71 GA. And Ford is the Ford oval. Im going outside now to pick some four leaf clovers.
Most of the time, it is a single company that creates the transmissions, then that patented work gets offered to manufacturers. Then the cases get modified to fit the individual manufacturers needs per chassis.
This happens alot with more complex sub-assemblies of most mass produced cars. It can work out great if rebuilding parts. The case may be specific, but internals can be cheap!
This happens alot with more complex sub-assemblies of most mass produced cars. It can work out great if rebuilding parts. The case may be specific, but internals can be cheap!
True and I also attributed it to the clutch manufacturers limiting options to control costs.
It was just a very strange coincidence having the input shaft in my tool box.
I was then ready to reinstall the trans and was checking the throwout bearing installation. When I removed the fork to grease the pivot to my surprise the throwout bearing guide tube is missing. Just another reason to disassemble to check every nut, bolt and component.
It was just a very strange coincidence having the input shaft in my tool box.
I was then ready to reinstall the trans and was checking the throwout bearing installation. When I removed the fork to grease the pivot to my surprise the throwout bearing guide tube is missing. Just another reason to disassemble to check every nut, bolt and component.
Scott
Lifetime Supporter
Those are the only bolts into aluminum that I've taken apart in which the factory didn't use anti-seize. My plan is to use anti-seize when I put them back in.
Next question: What size is the slave cylinder line fitting for a Porsche G96? I assumed it was M10 x 1.0 but when I measured it the internal threads measured 10.96mm. Thanks in advance
Does anyone know the slave cylinder line thread size for my transaxle? I have a Porsche G96/01.
Rich
I purchased a Steel Banjo Bolt Fitting M12 x 1.0 to 3AN for mine.
I purchased a Steel Banjo Bolt Fitting M12 x 1.0 to 3AN for mine.
Thanks Colin
