Oil FilterWrap around Magnet

[(C)arlos]

Guys,

while sneaking around summit website I found this
FilterMAG RA365 - FilterMAG RA Series Magnets - Overview - SummitRacing.com


Any experience with that ?
I like the idea, but not sure it is worth the money

Cheers
skeleton

 

[Jac Mac]

Many SBF fords have had the oil pump drive twisted or shorn off from debris being sucked thru the pickup screen & jamming the pump gears ( Lifter circlips-broken valve stem seals etc ), since the filter is next in the flow sequence after the pump its too late to have any effect in preventing this. A magnetic drain plug or another placed in the pan/sump is probably of more use, also bearing metal ( tin, alloy, lead ) is non magnetic & wont be retained by a magnet. If you lose a lobe on a flat tappet cam its complete stripdown/rebuild time anyway, that fine ground cast iron stuff always gets past the by-pass eventually if the engine is used for a period between failure & diagnosis of the problem.

Its interesting that its our nice clean race/performance engines that have the most problems in this regard... the old use every day car with an accumulation of sludge/carbon buildup in the pan tends to hold metal/debris etc, I've stripped down several hi-mileage engines where there is a collection of circlips & rubber stem seals, along with other items embedded in the sludge etc.

 

[Dave Bilyk]

Skeleton, I used to have a magnet in the block of my mini engine, there was also a magnet in the sump plug. I think it used to be common practice to for oem oil drain plugs to contain a magnet for this purpose. Don't know about these days.
I agree with you. that it is a bit pricy. Looks simple, but well thought out and the best magnets are never cheap. I wonder though, I have a couple of magnets I have taken out of old speakers I use them to collect filings and to retrieve dropped screws occaisionally, they are quite powerful but could only be used on a flat surface. Ok for the sump pan I guess.

Dave

 

[(C)arlos]

Hi jac Mac,
I tend to agree what you say about the usage. Especially to the non iron parts ... Makes kinda sense

And it is in deed an interesting observation that race engines have more problems with this...is it the additional stress, meaning more engine wear in a shorter period of time ?

I watched the Video and they also offer a straight one for gearbox Oil Pans, this might be the right thing to clip in addition on the bottom of the Oilpan to the magnetic oil drain plug. I think I give it a try with the straight one on the Pan....

cheers
skeleton

 

[(C)arlos]

Skeleton, I used to have a magnet in the block of my mini engine, there was also a magnet in the sump plug. I think it used to be common practice to for oem oil drain plugs to contain a magnet for this purpose. Don't know about these days.
I agree with you. that it is a bit pricy. Looks simple, but well thought out and the best magnets are never cheap. I wonder though, I have a couple of magnets I have taken out of old speakers I use them to collect filings and to retrieve dropped screws occaisionally, they are quite powerful but could only be used on a flat surface. Ok for the sump pan I guess.

Dave

Hi dave,
todays magente are quire strong if they are neodym ones, really powerfull. They are often used in brushless electrical engines for hotliner airplanes ( remote controlled they are making 200 AMP's and climbing 160m/sec straight into the sky) and with the real good ones, you will not be able to easily turn the propeller connected to it
So I guess this is nothing to worry about...and yes the price is somewhere in between "Kinda Like it and want it and No way I am going to pay this" ...hmmmm....still not getting wiser

skeleton

 

[Jac Mac]

And it is in deed an interesting observation that race engines have more problems with this...is it the additional stress, meaning more engine wear in a shorter period of time ?

cheers
skeleton

That & the fact that the original factory engine wont have the higher component loadings during its initial break in period... valve spring seat pressure might only be ~85lb on the stock unit, many folk think they can get away with more on the performance rebuild, some do, some dont. The first 30 seconds or so are the most critical, followed by the next 30 minutes. If you have acheived a decent 'bed-in' on cam & lifters in that time your usually OK.

Other areas to look for a correct fitment of valve springs etc, its amazing how many people fit new springs, rockers, guide plates without ensuring that they are compatible with one another... springs that look miles away from coil bind, but the inner damper might be jammed up against the stem seal or guide boss, pushrods that are trying to climb out of the rocker arm @ full lift... eventually somethings got to give

 

[Karen Brady]

It is worth buying even though expensive because they last long you will not also have problems on your oil pan. If you want cheap one just go for surplus shops.