original door lock release mechanism

when using the original rover locks how does the release handle work - does the release latch slide forward or does it pivot to pull the lock release. I have the repro release latches from Jay Cushman, but the mechanism they mount into I haven't found any photos to copy, thanks
- Steve
 

JimmyMac

Lifetime Supporter
Steve
The lever is attached to the lever with two screws.
You can also add a spring twixt the chrome lever and the latch frame to give a bit more tension.
It's awkward but I hope this photo helps.
fullsizeoutput_162.jpeg
Door Hardware.jpg
 
Thanks, but how does the release just not fall down, I'm here making nylon rails that bind whatever I do and this looks like It holds on by good wishes alone
 

JimmyMac

Lifetime Supporter
Steve,
Good wishes o_O
The chrome door release is fastened to the lever onto the door latch trigger with two short 2BA bolts. Some latch triggers have only one hole so drill a second hole matching the door release holes if it is missing. (the ones in my photo have a single hole)
The whole latch assembly including the door release is bolted to the door jamb and the outer escutcheon plate.
The door handle is fitted into the cup with a return coil spring on the bolt.
When I mentioned that it is awkward, you have to position the latch making sure that the other operating side of it mates with the end of the door handle and works smoothly. Some filing work on your door handle will be necessary.
 

Davidmgbv8

Supporter
Jimmy, how did you get the photo above? if I glue my door inner and outer shell together then you cannot access the lock or door handle. Did you cut a panel out of the door pocket. My door has the one large single pocket?
 

JimmyMac

Lifetime Supporter
Hi David
Yes, we prepared our doors with removable inner boxes.
Not only to facilitate fitting the door lock mechanism but also to reinforce the innards where the top and bottom of the door hinge pin bushes fit.

IMG_0588.jpeg
 

Davidmgbv8

Supporter
What reinforcement did you do? I have wood blocks glassed into mine. That was good thinking on your part about the removable liner
 
Always interesting to see how people finish the inside edge where the two halves of the moulded parts are glued together
 

Brian Stewart
Supporter
Internal lock mechanism is Rover, but striker plate is Vanguard or Triumph Mayflower. Rover striker plate can be made to work, but needs work.

Vanguard/Triumph plates below and then with cap welded on; Rover plates last
IMG_1441.JPG
Striker plate.jpg
Screenshot 2022-11-18 at 8.58.06 AM.png
.
 

Paul Hendrickx

Supporter
voila...
Paul
 

JimmyMac

Lifetime Supporter
David,

The little channel behind the door lock striker is a really fiddly part to get right first time and the drawing doesn't help much as the correct profile depends on your fibreglass fit.
It is tapered in section to fill the gap between the bulkhead and the face angle of the inside of the door panel and the lock plate so an accurate job depends on your final fit of your door shell.

To give you an idea, below is a study from original pieces that I made before draughting a cutting file to fabricate my own parts to fit correctly.
And ten to one odds that both door gaps will be different. I have seen plate spacers fitted behind these sections on original cars to get the door to close and lock properly, this would nice to avoid.

Door Bracket Variations.jpeg


The Bryan Wingfield version is probably the best profile to start with.
I hope this helps.
 

Davidmgbv8

Supporter
Thanks James, I am looking at my chassis and I have quite the gap. Appreciate the input I have a ways to go. But this will be very helpful
AD574B47-14A3-4B5F-A6A6-F1F0E63CF7C5.jpeg
 
Top