original door lock release mechanism

[Steve Sandoval]

when using the original rover locks how does the release handle work - does the release latch slide forward or does it pivot to pull the lock release. I have the repro release latches from Jay Cushman, but the mechanism they mount into I haven't found any photos to copy, thanks
- Steve

 

[JimmyMac]

Steve
The lever is attached to the lever with two screws.
You can also add a spring twixt the chrome lever and the latch frame to give a bit more tension.
It's awkward but I hope this photo helps.

 

[Steve Sandoval]

Thanks, but how does the release just not fall down, I'm here making nylon rails that bind whatever I do and this looks like It holds on by good wishes alone

 

[JimmyMac]

Steve,
Good wishes
The chrome door release is fastened to the lever onto the door latch trigger with two short 2BA bolts. Some latch triggers have only one hole so drill a second hole matching the door release holes if it is missing. (the ones in my photo have a single hole)
The whole latch assembly including the door release is bolted to the door jamb and the outer escutcheon plate.
The door handle is fitted into the cup with a return coil spring on the bolt.
When I mentioned that it is awkward, you have to position the latch making sure that the other operating side of it mates with the end of the door handle and works smoothly. Some filing work on your door handle will be necessary.

 

[Davidmgbv8]

Jimmy, how did you get the photo above? if I glue my door inner and outer shell together then you cannot access the lock or door handle. Did you cut a panel out of the door pocket. My door has the one large single pocket?

 

[JimmyMac]

Hi David
Yes, we prepared our doors with removable inner boxes.
Not only to facilitate fitting the door lock mechanism but also to reinforce the innards where the top and bottom of the door hinge pin bushes fit.

 

[Davidmgbv8]

What reinforcement did you do? I have wood blocks glassed into mine. That was good thinking on your part about the removable liner

 

[Ryan L]

Always interesting to see how people finish the inside edge where the two halves of the moulded parts are glued together

 

[JimmyMac]

David
We reinforced it with aluminium Expamet in filler resin

 

[BenL]

when using the original rover locks how does the release handle work

I just noticed the first message in the thread. If by "original" you mean as found in an original GT40, wouldn't the original part be from a Ford, not a Rover?

 

[Rick Muck- Mark IV]

I just noticed the first message in the thread. If by "original" you mean as found in an original GT40, wouldn't the original part be from a Ford, not a Rover?

Nope, a Rover part. FAV used a lot of locally available pieces rather than US Ford parts.

 

[Davidmgbv8]

I got my latches from a guy who parts out Rovers in England. Got the strikers off of Fleabay, out of India $10 for a pair shipped new from India
https://www.ebay.com/itm/274137772964? While they are not a perfect copy they are pretty darn good for $10

 

[Morten]

Rover P4 internal door lock mechanism and striker plate.

 

Internal lock mechanism is Rover, but striker plate is Vanguard or Triumph Mayflower. Rover striker plate can be made to work, but needs work.

Vanguard/Triumph plates below and then with cap welded on; Rover plates last

.

 

[David mono]

A thread called Original Bits Two has a list of parts and where they came from .

 

[Paul Hendrickx]

Original bits II

There have been a number of posts over the past few months regarding bits and pieces found on the original cars. I know originality is not an issue for some, and that’s fine, but for others it is important. This thread was started way back in late 2002 but I guess some of the newer members...

www.gt40s.com

voila...
Paul

 

[Davidmgbv8]

Does anyone have a drawing of the rectangular mount that the striker mounts to that is then mounted to the bulkhead?

 

[JimmyMac]

David,

The little channel behind the door lock striker is a really fiddly part to get right first time and the drawing doesn't help much as the correct profile depends on your fibreglass fit.
It is tapered in section to fill the gap between the bulkhead and the face angle of the inside of the door panel and the lock plate so an accurate job depends on your final fit of your door shell.

To give you an idea, below is a study from original pieces that I made before draughting a cutting file to fabricate my own parts to fit correctly.
And ten to one odds that both door gaps will be different. I have seen plate spacers fitted behind these sections on original cars to get the door to close and lock properly, this would nice to avoid.

The Bryan Wingfield version is probably the best profile to start with.
I hope this helps.

 

[Davidmgbv8]

Thanks James, I am looking at my chassis and I have quite the gap. Appreciate the input I have a ways to go. But this will be very helpful