Painting Engine & Gearbox

[Fred W.]

Hi All

I thinking about painting the engine and gearbox and I wanted to ask anyone on here who has done this what are the pro's and con's of doing this?
Also what is the best sort of paint (and or what brand) to use. My preference would be a silver or metal type finish/colour but this is in no way firm. Any thoughts? Thanks.

 

[Mike Drew]

I don't know what kind of gearbox you have, but if it has an unpainted cast aluminum case (as most do), one of the best treatments is to simply spray it down with WD-40, let it soak in, then wipe it down. It fills the pores in the metal, leaves a nice 'as-cast' finish, and makes it much easier to clean off afterwards.

If you touch a bare metal case with greasy fingers, the finger marks are there forever until you blast it clean. But if you've done the WD-40 thing, it's easy to clean it off; you can use more WD40 as a cleaner too.

That's how Lloyd Butfoy treats all the ZF gearboxes he rebuilds....

 

[Jack]

I do a belts and suspenders thing on the gearbox. Blast it, then I use silicone spray and really let it soak it for a few days. After that it's WD-40 all the way.

My current 930 gearbox was not blasted, but cleaned with a pontoon boat aluminum hull cleaner "Toon-Bright". Worked well, rinsed off all of the grease spots and left a dull natural appearance. Used the silicone and WD-40 after that. Looks great 2 years later.

 

[Bill Musarra]

Fred, I like the responses so far for the tranny. I will probably go back and do mine that way as I don't have any idea when it was cleaned last. I got the trans about 5 years ago and it was supposedly cleaned by the rebuilder. Most of your parts suppliers have engine enamel paints in just about any color you desire. Most tanked engines will not get every spec of old paint off the block. I would suggest a color that accents your color scheme of the car. Sometimes a contrasting color does well. Mine being a dark shadow gray, I chose the grey primer color.Remember. about the only time you will see the block is like this:

When the rear clip is open you won't see much of the engine, only the trans and the heads. If you go with aluminum you surely won't paint them.

Then there are those that think the traditional Ford Blue is all there is.

Bill

 

[Mark Clapp]

Fred, for the engine paint, Eastwood Company makes great brush-on engine paint. I just spent a lot of time roughing up everywhere I could with sandpaper and wire brush, wiped it off with brake cleaner and brushed on the paint. It runs out smooth and looks thick like original type paint. Here is a link to their web page: Ceramic Engine Paints Absolutely looks great after a year now. One quart does two coats. It is very forgiving and sticks well everywhere.

 

[Jack]

Fred, the Eastwood products are super. Use a non-chlorinated brake cleaner, please.

 

[(C)arlos]

Fred, I tried it a few times, and my experiences are not the best if you drive the car regular and need to clean it often....for my cobra the paint was washed away over time and it looks really bad now....all blocks I am doing right now are bare metal finish ....
I can't imagine it was the preparation as I did the painting right after blocks returned from professional chemical cleaning and I used a primer ....but it might just me don't know.....I drive the GT also in bad weather conditions and I clean it relative often with a high pressure cleaner after a rainy day and then the paint doesn't last very long....that's for sure.....but again this is might just me doing something wrong ....

 

[Fred W.]

Thanks guys.

I thought there may be some differing views on this. I guess it looks really good just after you have done it. But later?

 

[just ernst]

if you are able to get standox-color-products, you had a brand with it, they had all material to do this job,....is not so easy as it looks to get good results,....
we do this in our company with motocyle engines and other engine parts,....
first is to have an optimal-clean part to spray it, second is to get the right primer on each material,...you can have primers for aluminium, steel, some plastiks, also a primer for zink, and magnesium,.....after this there are many variantes to go on,....
the only, after this first rection-primer you must use a 2k-material,....non-stop or dry and sand, and after paint,....basecoat,....and clearcoat, highgloss or matt,....
if you need more info,..ask
ernst

 

[EGLITOM]

Fred, I tried it a few times, and my experiences are not the best if you drive the car regular and need to clean it often....for my cobra the paint was washed away over time and it looks really bad now....all blocks I am doing right now are bare metal finish ....
I can't imagine it was the preparation as I did the painting right after blocks returned from professional chemical cleaning and I used a primer ....but it might just me don't know.....I drive the GT also in bad weather conditions and I clean it relative often with a high pressure cleaner after a rainy day and then the paint doesn't last very long....that's for sure.....but again this is might just me doing something wrong ....

Dear Carlos,

Yeah, washing with a high pressure cleaner, you are a brave man.:thumbsup:

TOM

 

[(C)arlos]

Yuip after all it is just a car if it doesn't take me from a to b without hazel it is not worth a single penny to me ....( I know some members here are already organizing a crucifixion for me after reading this :lipsrsealed: )

Dear Carlos,

Yeah, washing with a high pressure cleaner, you are a brave man.:thumbsup:

TOM