Cooling issues, bleeds and electric pumps

[Marcus]

Hi All,
I am trying to avoid overheating on my CAV and thought I would reach out for advise.
I am running mech water pump and have drilling small 3mm bleeds into the rear of manifold and behind water pump going back to expansion tank to stop accumulation of air in the heads.
I do not however have a bleed line from the rad back to the expansion tank.....
I have the engine out at the moment and wanted to know what people thought of plumbing in this front to rear bleed line....?
Also I am thinking of an electric water pump......
If anyone has experience with these electric pumps I would be delighted to hear of the way its plumbed in and where and whether its used in tandem with mechanical or in place of..... I am guessing in place of as how would the faster water flow from electric pump flow past the impellor on the mech pump (unless impellor removed...?)
Also did the addition of electric pump require Alternator upgrade as I guess they draw some power and with fans and possible AC running maybe the undercharges....?
I think that's about it for now and delighted to hear the thoughts of those kind enough to provide their experience and thoughts....
Cheers

 

[JP Verweij]

I run a copper brake line as a bleed from top of the rad to the expansion tank.
Also a bleedline from top upper engine hose to expansion tank, as my expansion tank sits lower.
I also have an overflow tank.

I run Davies Craigh EWP130 electric waterpump kit with controler.
OEM waterpump is totaly empty and blocked on the outside with a freezeplug (where the pulley once was).
No thermostat as per instructions with the kit. The controler controls heatup cycle and cooling cycle aswel the fans.
I am still running the defauld setting of the controler which works fine even on a hot day and traffic delays where I totaly overheat inside the GT40 (no AC) and the car itself performs fine.

 

[Randy Folsom]

I run a copper brake line as a bleed from top of the rad to the expansion tank.
Also a bleedline from top upper engine hose to expansion tank, as my expansion tank sits lower.
I also have an overflow tank.

I run Davies Craigh EWP130 electric waterpump kit with controler.
OEM waterpump is totaly empty and blocked on the outside with a freezeplug (where the pulley once was).
No thermostat as per instructions with the kit. The controler controls heatup cycle and cooling cycle aswel the fans.
I am still running the defauld setting of the controler which works fine even on a hot day and traffic delays where I totaly overheat inside the GT40 (no AC) and the car itself performs fine.

JP,
The description on this website says the EWP130 is intended for up to 4L V8 engines. Guessing that you found it to be sufficient. Did you make any significant modifications to your radiator plumbing to reduce the load?

Davies Craig 12v EWP130 Alloy Water Pump w/ LCD Controller - Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies

Free up HP by replacing your belt driven water pump with a Davies Craig Electric Water Pump. This alloy 130 L/min (34 GPM) pump is for normally-aspirated, unmodified large 6-cylinder and V-8's up to 4.0L Includes LCD Controller.

www.pegasusautoracing.com

 

[Chris Kouba]

Marcus,

I've never had any cooling issues and I have a line as you're planning. My build is very mild compared to many on the forum though (302, 350h/350tq). I can't say that the specific line is why I have no issues, but as part of the overall system, it does its job well. The motor runs great and idles just fine in HOT stop and go traffic without issue.

 

[Andy Green]

Hi Marcus,
probably worth reading my old post on electric waterpumps

Norfolk Tornado

I’m going to use a corsa c column on the gt forte is about to start building. How did you lock of the adjustable height and what did you do to extend the shaft to the steering wheel. Cheers in advance Phil Beware if building the GT Forte that the dashboards supplied by them are different to...

www.gt40s.com

Rgds,
Andy

 

[JP Verweij]

JP,
The description on this website says the EWP130 is intended for up to 4L V8 engines...

Thats cause I am running a 3.5 Rover V8

 

[Randy Folsom]

Thats cause I am running a 3.5 Rover V8

I see. Thx for clarifying.

 

[Bob Putnam]

We install a couple EWP pumps about 20 years ago. I have the original box, but it has no model markings. I wouldn't be surprised that there was only one available back then and it was probably similar to the EWP130. It worked fine with a 400 bhp 331.

 

[Chris]

I have put a EWP 150 in mine, Davies Craig with Digital Controller. Engine is tuned 302. The mechanical pump has been removed and I have used the DC blanking plate in lieu. I have a bleed from the back of the inlet manifold (both sides) to the expansion tank in 3/16 brake pipe. On the rad I have a little bleed screw because I didn't want to run a pipe all the way back. No thermostat. The EWP is right on the back of the radiator on the bottom hose. That apparently is where they work best.
I have run it up in the workshop a lot, done the cam break in and tuned the motor. Being static is probably as good a test as any. No issues at all. It's surprisingly good, better than I expected. You can override the fans by pushing a button on the DC controller if you want but I haven't found it necessary. I have located the controller low in the dash to make it easy and visible without being too obvious.
I'm so impressed with it I'm considering putting the same set up on my cobra (FE427).

 

[Randy Folsom]

We install a couple EWP pumps about 20 years ago. I have the original box, but it has no model markings. I wouldn't be surprised that there was only one available back then and it was probably similar to the EWP130. It worked fine with a 400 bhp 331.

Bob, Thx much. The engine for my car dynoed at 533 bhp. I am considering a solution with a brushless motor similar to those used on newer European cars. Cheers, Randy

 

[Randy Folsom]

I have put a EWP 150 in mine, Davies Craig with Digital Controller. Engine is tuned 302. The mechanical pump has been removed and I have used the DC blanking plate in lieu. I have a bleed from the back of the inlet manifold (both sides) to the expansion tank in 3/16 brake pipe. On the rad I have a little bleed screw because I didn't want to run a pipe all the way back. No thermostat. The EWP is right on the back of the radiator on the bottom hose. That apparently is where they work best.
I have run it up in the workshop a lot, done the cam break in and tuned the motor. Being static is probably as good a test as any. No issues at all. It's surprisingly good, better than I expected. You can override the fans by pushing a button on the DC controller if you want but I haven't found it necessary. I have located the controller low in the dash to make it easy and visible without being too obvious.
I'm so impressed with it I'm considering putting the same set up on my cobra (FE427).

Chris, I am looking forward to hearing how the EWP150 works with your FE427. I like that it works best when near installed near the radiator. Where is your temperature sensor? Are you using a water pump housing with the impeller removed and shaft hole plugged? Cheers, Randy

 

[Chris]

Chris, I am looking forward to hearing how the EWP150 works with your FE427. I like that it works best when near installed near the radiator. Where is your temperature sensor? Are you using a water pump housing with the impeller removed and shaft hole plugged? Cheers, Randy

There seem to be other threads on this topic too. Like others, my temp sensor is in the top of the inlet manifold. I'm not using a modified pump housing, instead I have an aftermarket blanking cover plate made for the purpose. It's light and reduces the depth compared to a water pump giving me more room behind the bulkhead. Expansion tank is higher than the manifold.