Question on 427 - MarkI

I'm still several years off on building a GT40 Replica, (Working on a Cobra Replica this year) but I am very curious about the idea of 427 in a MarkI.

Has anyone done this? Can it be fit inot a MarkI

I know it might be blasphemous, but I like the MarkI body style and I like the 427. I know there is cooling issues, but maybe they can be worked out.
 
GT/106 was the first of the Big Block cars along with GT/107. In their early form they had virtually Mk 1 styling at the rear apart from the area just aft of the rear wheel arches and the rear panel. They had several variations of nose design as a result of aero experiments etc. These cars were made from a lighter gauge chassis material and were apparently scrapped or rebuilt using later chassis etc. As replica chassis vary from different suppliers it would pay to check with them as to fitting the 427 etc. I have also decided to follow this direction mainly as I have a set of molds for a Mk 1 and have a soft spot for FE . I also quite like the long nose on GT/106.
Cheers Jack.
 
be aware that the fe engine is somewhat larger than the SB ford lump, in length, width, and height.
The original mkII chassis started out as a mkI chassis, which was then modified to accomodate the engine. The mods were mainly for strength, but also to give clearance.
I would be very surprised if you could get an FE under a standard mkI clip without setting fire to it.

Finally, the MKII FEs were dry sumped, partly to gain sufficient ground clearance. The early mkIIs had the oil tank up front where the spare wheel goes. This is one reason for the change in the shape of the front clip ahead of the windscreen.
If you decide to put the dry sump tank in the back (like the later mkIIs) that would give you even less room to get a mkI rear clip on...

Cheers,
John.
 
The picture does not show the rear clip. I know a guy who put a 427 in a GTD but used the MK2 rear clip. The FE will upset the chassis and change the weight. I don't know what a mk1 % is but a Mk 4 runs about 35/ 65. All in all, a 427 small block would be the way to go. Lighter is definately better.
Bill
 

Ron Earp

Admin
I've been reading the re-issue of "The Unfair Advantage" by Mark Donahue (http://www.unfairadvantageracing.com/) and there is a very interesting chapter of his working with the GT40s and driving for H&M and Shelby.

When writing about the cars the one thing he mentions two or three times in the relatively short writeup about the 427 cars is weight. He cites the race weight at roughly 3000 lbs with the FE motors and comments on detriments to braking and handling. Seems if you wanted the inches there are better ways to obtain it nowadays, and if you simply want similar power to the 427 of old you could use a smaller inch motor and acheive similar power.

Good book. Haven't got to the part about the Lola
Spider yet but I have seen the photos - Lola crashed, Lola on fire, Mark running away from Lola on fire, and burned up chassis. Is this what you have in mind Fran to get rid of me?
 
Ron

You're right...Donohue's book is a great read for many reasons.
All gear heads should have a copy...cheap enough in paperback.

Regarding a big block/MK I...I've seen quite a few 460 powered Cobras
running around these days. If someone had to have a BB car...that might
be an easier install once you get past the adapter/transaxle issue.
The 460 is just as powerful and lots cheaper than a 427.....just a thought.

MikeD
 
By Mk I, I meant back also. The weight issue has been addressed here before. If you look at my sites you will see engine weights of similarly equiped FE 427 and 427W and the weight difference is ~40 lbs.
 

Ron Earp

Admin
Hey Gary,

Was that aluminum versus aluminum and iron versus iron?

How about price? Aluminum 427 FE versus aluminum 427 Windsor? $40 difference? :)

Ron
 
Might sound strange but I have a pretty standard 302 in my car, hopefully it's putting out about 300 bhp, I rebult it with daily driver in mind as I use the 40 for work on nice days in and around London. I also go for the odd blast round the twisty roads of a nightime and can honestly say that it is very hard to use all of the power that I have available most of the time. I would go as far to say that it may be more troublesome to handle more power as the chassis can't take it in these cars except in a straight line, especially as you will need some serious gearbox to handle all that power. On a track maybe you can utilise it moreso but it would need to be a very fast circuit. I am not considering any engine mods to start with, rather spend my cash on handling. Bear in mind that you can spin the rear wheels on a dry road in all first 3 gears - ok I haven't got a LSD but it may give some insight into how blisteringly fast these cars really are.
 
Ron Earp said:
Hey Gary,

Was that aluminum versus aluminum and iron versus iron?

How about price? Aluminum 427 FE versus aluminum 427 Windsor? $40 difference? :)

Ron

I mentioned similarly equiped (iron block and alum heads and intake). You can see from the photos that one has EFI and the other has carb setup. Cost was actually cheaper for the FE however it was pieced and assembled by me versus 427W built by KC.
 
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