RCR40 EV Build

[Randy Folsom]

Has anyone documented an EV RCR40 build? After pricing an ICE setup, I have come to the conclusion that an EV build is financially within about the same cost range, maybe less. I am not interested in the Superformance Everatti. Got turned off immediately by the fake engine noise controlled by the shifter. To me that is like eating a Tofu turkey. Just eat tofu or turkey. If I go the EV route, I am not going to pretend it’s not an EV. I am thinking either the Ford EV crate motor or Tesla. I think the weight of an EV will be comparable to an ICE setup; I suspect it depends on the range. The weight distribution can be optimized by strategically positioning the batteries. It seems some aspects of the build will be easier (no shift, clutch or throttle linkage) while other areas will require some deep thought (suspension, breaks, cooling).
Apologies in advance to the never-EV crowd.

 

[Randy V]

Having built an EV (Motorcycle), all I can offer is that you do a lot of research and hopefully you’re technically competent in the field of electronics. With the voltage and current you’re dealing with, things can go quite badly in a very big hurry. There are forums that cater specifically to the EV crowd and companies that sell kits.

 

[Randy Folsom]

Having built an EV (Motorcycle), all I can offer is that you do a lot of research and hopefully you’re technically competent in the field of electronics. With the voltage and current you’re dealing with, things can go quite badly in a very big hurry. There are forums that cater specifically to the EV crowd and companies that sell kits.

Yes, I have watched a few YTV, and the recurring theme is “be very careful or you will die.”

 

[Ole Nylende]

Just my thougts:
Rather than modifying a platform intended for a combustion engine, why not start from scratch and adjust the chassis for electric components?
The layout should be pretty good for placing batteries. You can fill the volume where you normally have your fuel tanks and engine and maybe put some in the nose area to adjust the weight balance of the car.

I recall reading that active power sells plans for their chassis that uses corvette components.

 

[Randy Folsom]

Just my thougts:
Rather than modifying a platform intended for a combustion engine, why not start from scratch and adjust the chassis for electric components?
The layout should be pretty good for placing batteries. You can fill the volume where you normally have your fuel tanks and engine and maybe put some in the nose area to adjust the weight balance of the car.

I recall reading that active power sells plans for their chassis that uses corvette components.

Building a GT40 frame and suspension from scratch would probably result in a more optimal layout, but the required tooling is way out of my league. The ford crate motor is transverse drive so hoping it will fit between the rear wheels with relatively minor frame and suspension modifications. Might have to go with a 2” or 4” wide body to accommodate the CV shafts. The area behind the firewall that the engine occupied would available for batteries, traction converter, control module, cooling system, etc. Might even be able to stuff a few battery packs into the fuel tank sponsons for better weight distribution. In the front there should be room for additional batteries since the radiator, fans and hoses will be gone. Hoping for enough range to drive comfortably from Austin to Houston. Since the car is light and has very little aero drag, it should not require a huge amount of batteries to go 200 miles even with minimal energy recapture capabilities.

 

[Randy V]

The weight of the batteries is a lot higher than you might believe… The good thing would be better weight distribution in the fuel sponsons - but still not easily serviced. I used Optima yellow tops in my bike..

 

[Paul Hendrickx]

Building a GT40 frame and suspension from scratch would probably result in a more optimal layout, but the required tooling is way out of my league. The ford crate motor is transverse drive so hoping it will fit between the rear wheels with relatively minor frame and suspension modifications. Might have to go with a 2” or 4” wide body to accommodate the CV shafts. The area behind the firewall that the engine occupied would available for batteries, traction converter, control module, cooling system, etc. Might even be able to stuff a few battery packs into the fuel tank sponsons for better weight distribution. In the front there should be room for additional batteries since the radiator, fans and hoses will be gone. Hoping for enough range to drive comfortably from Austin to Houston. Since the car is light and has very little aero drag, it should not require a huge amount of batteries to go 200 miles even with minimal energy recapture capabilities.

ev batteries are complicated to keep kool, I personal think you need at least 2 systems as per ev rules

Electric Vehicle Coolant and Cooling Systems

Cooling lithium-ion battery packs is vital, as is evaluating which battery cooling system is most effective and the right electric vehicle coolant to use.

www.dober.com

Paul

 

[Paul Hendrickx]

found my vocabulary again, ev needs redundant system with back up, otherwise in case of failure vehicle burns, and fire brigade puts car 2 days in container filled up with water..... automatically gouvernement take vehicle of the road for ever

 

[Brian Kissel]

These are just my thoughts only. Because this is your first build, I would advise you to go the tried and true road with a small block Ford, crate or otherwise. If you continue down the path you are going with the EV, I personally believe you will end up with a non finished project selling it at a loss.
Just my opinion.
Regards Brian

 

[Randy Folsom]

These are just my thoughts only. Because this is your first build, I would advise you to go the tried and true road with a small block Ford, crate or otherwise. If you continue down the path you are going with the EV, I personally believe you will end up with a non finished project selling it at a loss.
Just my opinion.
Regards Brian

If I go down the EV path I’ll build a mule first based on a something like a Locost 7. Once proven, then move the parts over.

 

[Paul Hendrickx]

If I go down the EV path I’ll build a mule first based on a something like a Locost 7. Once proven, then move the parts over.

if you wish to go 200 miles electric in locost 7 you will need trailer to put the batteries in..., for that kind of range. the batteries are huge... & heavy
here in Europe some try to sell conversions kits for old-timer vw beetle & company.... installed In 1 day , range capacity +- 80kms...

its à huge challenge
but every big voyage started with 1 step

 

[Randy Folsom]

Yes, I expect reality to come knocking at my door. At least it is engaging to work out the issues. And it keeps me out of trouble.

 

[Randy Folsom]

Yes, I expect reality to come knocking at my door. At least it is engaging to work out the issues. And it keeps me out of trouble.

I did some back of napkin math. A Tesla Model 3 weighs in at about 3,600 lbs, with about 1,000 lbs of batteries (700lbs), motor, converter, control unit etc. The range is 220 miles.
An RCR40 weighs in at about 2,350 lbs, with about 1,000 pounds of drive train.
I am hoping for about 200 miles of range. Since the RCR40 weighs 35% less than a Tesla, and doesn’t have nearly as much parasitic load, I figure I the RCR40 can achieve 200 miles with 25% less battery capacity. There will be more tire drag, but less aero drag. Also, assume the Tesla more is efficient. The result is 525 lbs of battery, 205 lbs for motor and 200 lbs for control unit, converter, cables, etc. Comfortably within the budget of 1,000 pounds of a typical ICE drive train. The form factor of 525 lbs of batteries is more dense than a fully dressed 302, so fitting the batteries should be possible. The challenge now is to find suitable CAD models to see how it will fit together. Ford wants a ridiculous $500 for Eluminator CAD models. The motor is only $4K. I may end up making my own space model based on pictures and drawings.

 

[Brian]

Proper tires for a gt40 will have a LOT more rolling resistance than the rock hard EV spec'ed tesla tires.

My opinion and it's only worth 10% of what you paid for it, if you want to make an EV, do it with something more modern looking. Not having a bundle of snakes under the rear clam will forever be a letdown. Not saying playing with an EV doesn't have it;s own cool factor. Maybe even a Kelmark (Ferrari Dino sorta tribute for bug chassis) or other Fiberfab classic.

 

[Randy Folsom]

Proper tires for a gt40 will have a LOT more rolling resistance than the rock hard EV spec'ed tesla tires.

My opinion and it's only worth 10% of what you paid for it, if you want to make an EV, do it with something more modern looking. Not having a bundle of snakes under the rear clam will forever be a letdown. Not saying playing with an EV doesn't have it;s own cool factor. Maybe even a Kelmark (Ferrari Dino sorta tribute for bug chassis) or other Fiberfab classic.

I hope you don’t mind, I will be using ‘my opinion and it’s only worth 10% of what you paid for it.’

I agree, the bundle of snakes is a big part of the appeal, along with the Weber eight stack. I mentioned earlier that I will probably build a Locost 7 EV mule if I decide to go the EV route. That mule might end up being a keeper. It will weigh substantially less and will have narrower tires so even less battery capacity is needed. 280 instant HP pushing a 1,500 lb car should make for some fun.

I think it should be clear by now that I can’t decide what I want. I do know I need to build something.

 

[Brian]

"I hope you don’t mind, I will be using ‘my opinion and it’s only worth 10% of what you paid for it.’"

It's yours. I can't recall, but most likely I lifted it from someone myself.

Once you make the locost, it's a shame to dismantle it. It can be a fun toy on it's own.

I've been eyeing the Toyota hybrid AWD rear motor myself for a hypo golf car or something. It's about 50HP. You could squeeze it in the front and have AWD. https://www.ebay.com/itm/3639983007...3D%3D|ampid:PL_CLK|clp:2047675&epid=656809757

They're cheap and plentiful in the junk yards and would fit nicely for the front in an AWD locost.

 

[Brian]

I'm guessing you've already seen this...

DIY Electric Car Forums

A forum community dedicated to DIY electric car owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about electric vehicle conversions, builds, performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!

www.diyelectriccar.com

 

[Randy Folsom]

I'm guessing you've already seen this...

DIY Electric Car Forums

A forum community dedicated to DIY electric car owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about electric vehicle conversions, builds, performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!

www.diyelectriccar.com

A 300+ HP AWD Locost would be

"I hope you don’t mind, I will be using ‘my opinion and it’s only worth 10% of what you paid for it.’"

It's yours. I can't recall, but most likely I lifted it from someone myself.

Once you make the locost, it's a shame to dismantle it. It can be a fun toy on it's own.

I've been eyeing the Toyota hybrid AWD rear motor myself for a hypo golf car or something. It's about 50HP. You could squeeze it in the front and have AWD. https://www.ebay.com/itm/363998300725?_trkparms=amclksrc=ITM&aid=1110006&algo=HOMESPLICE.SIM&ao=1&asc=20220405142716&meid=ffdb3b8ffbce4058ab688925d90339c9&pid=101506&rk=5&rkt=25&sd=144665663906&itm=363998300725&pmt=1&noa=0&pg=2047675&algv=SimplAMLv9PairwiseWebMskuAspectsV202110NoVariantSeedNoPLX&brand=Toyota&_trksid=p2047675.c101506.m1851&amdata=cksum:363998300725ffdb3b8ffbce4058ab688925d90339c9|enc:AQAHAAABIAzdIKOcP6rVYsexH8mCu6bA2DY6ElM67JKComxjxAnyT9vOhsWu88eBePRdeUyezF0KDA7BEV0Wzxi5ZF4sTWgJsuIXHaZhv1xWe%2BlujDhagrNPe4LrpoWKW%2FIFXjtr9ThUIgWH8fUogYLDS389T3CogXq%2BopDAltKgvZ5AoQ7eG91n0Njr9eCxCl7bx4%2BKpoSmzpYWlckf62P6%2BsnNrlzWgcgIavUb4rsDS2%2BVaxV15LsWa%2BcRRDWR6GJ4a7ASuOSzZWy9e9Qg6wqUkdnnojAkqMX6tQwdGpcu6AafQICCMvFCpjJJdy3Aq%2BJU%2B4%2BoF7%2Fa%2FhRbteknelgKkRJpY6xZvarGeH0s9NtyRBtBrUVb93cB5PoyCbxhuvaRxH8DGw%3D%3D|ampidL_CLK|clp:2047675&epid=656809757

They're cheap and plentiful in the junk yards and would fit nicely for the front in an AWD locost.

A 300+ HP AWD Locost 7 would be epic. 150 miles of range should be plenty for a Sunday driver so battery weight down to about 300 lbs., about the same as an in-line four.