RCR40 GT40 MKI Build in Wisconsin

I've found the photos on the build threads to be most helpful, so not sure how often I'll get long-winded explaining things here. If you have questions on something you see, feel free to ask and I can explain. I also document most build elements via video shorts that I post here - https://www.tiktok.com/@lakelakelakewi

I went and picked up my car from RCR in April. I was missing (documented and acknowledged beforehand by RCR) only driveshafts, AC and some other miscellaneous parts. I opted to purchase a G96 LSD transaxle from Fran and it was in the car.

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I've only done the most basic elements to get started so far. As recommended by the (outdated) manual I undercoated the bottom and wheels wells in Rhino Liner. I used a silver tint liner on the bottom and black in the wheel wells. I rolled it on versus spraying an did lay down an etching primer beforehand. I powder coated some brackets, suspension control arms and other parts in my shop using a Wilwood sprayer and kitchen oven I bought on Marketplace for $50. Worked great and will save some waiting time (not money) for any other small parts I want to coat moving forward. I mounted my gas tanks by welding an aluminum flange onto the tank and running it straight through the outer pontoons. I also Rhino lined the bottom of the tank, although it probably wasn't necessary I'm hoping it might eliminate any squeaks or rattles.

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Great start, but on the last photos, I see that you use bolts with black oxyde. You should use SST bolt instead of black oxyde steel, especially for the ones on the frame, because they will rust very quickly. I am sharing my experience, the car I am rebuliding was strored 12 years and everything that is not aluminum or SST is rusted.
The danger with SST on aluminum frame is the electrolytic couple due to the contacty of the two metal, to avoid any problem of aluminum that is transform to alumina and block the bolt, you put some cupper greas on the thread before assembly.
 
Great start, but on the last photos, I see that you use bolts with black oxyde. You should use SST bolt instead of black oxyde steel, especially for the ones on the frame, because they will rust very quickly. I am sharing my experience, the car I am rebuliding was strored 12 years and everything that is not aluminum or SST is rusted.
The danger with SST on aluminum frame is the electrolytic couple due to the contacty of the two metal, to avoid any problem of aluminum that is transform to alumina and block the bolt, you put some cupper greas on the thread before assembly.

Thanks, I considered stainless but was concerned they wouldn’t be string enough. I can swap them pretty easy at this point.
 
Powder coated my engine parts and did some custom logo masking. Running the Lizard Skin on my back fire wall next and maybe installing my exhaust from GP Headers.
 

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Apparently a change was made to the steering rack right around the time I tool delivery of my car (April 2024). This new rack has a DD fitting coming out out of it that measures 20.1mm across. All of the supplied u-joints are 3/4" DD or about 19.05mm. Wondering if anyone has found a fitting for it or if you're having it modified? Thanks.
 

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