Can anyone make a suggestion for mounting of a rear spoiler? (I'm talking the period correct ones used back in the 60's and not the big wings like todays cars.) (God Forbid!) I own a CAV and have looked at Cushman Comp. for their mounting pieces but see very little room to secure in the area where the bolts would have to be drilled when I look up inside the rear clip. I assume the little upturn at the rear of the car would be the place the bolts (?) would be placed. But I see great difficulty in finding space inside. Any help or options would be appreciated.
Rear Spoiler Mounting.
- Thread starter tractorboy
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Jimmy,
I have just added the spoiler to my car. The rear clip is due for a repaint as we grafted on new fenders to cover the 315s, It is being dismantled for the paint and I can give you the fine points in where to drill along with a sketch of the openings that I used. There will probably be some variance with the way your rear clip was laid up from others, but the general info will get you through it.
The outside cutout is the hardest to place. What I did was to try and pick the location I wanted and drilled a pilot hole somewhere in the middle of it. I'll give you all the dimensions. Once that hole is drilled you check out the distandces to where the rear section meets the top section and adjust it from there. You also have to be mindful of where the inside fender edge meets the rear section. It will matter when you go to put washers on the inside, so your spacing has to be right to keep it from hitting that spot. I will take some good fotos tonight and post them with these notes in mind.
Bill
I have just added the spoiler to my car. The rear clip is due for a repaint as we grafted on new fenders to cover the 315s, It is being dismantled for the paint and I can give you the fine points in where to drill along with a sketch of the openings that I used. There will probably be some variance with the way your rear clip was laid up from others, but the general info will get you through it.
The outside cutout is the hardest to place. What I did was to try and pick the location I wanted and drilled a pilot hole somewhere in the middle of it. I'll give you all the dimensions. Once that hole is drilled you check out the distandces to where the rear section meets the top section and adjust it from there. You also have to be mindful of where the inside fender edge meets the rear section. It will matter when you go to put washers on the inside, so your spacing has to be right to keep it from hitting that spot. I will take some good fotos tonight and post them with these notes in mind.
Bill
Thanks Martin and Bill. Martin your photos give a good idea of how low the holes can go. The top two sitting over the registration plate...were you able to get a bolt through and a securing nut on the end? My CAV does not appear to provide a great deal of space up inside the lip spolier of the rear clip if I place the holes up high. Thus, going lower with the holes might be a viable (or only) option.
Bill, I'm very interested in how you accomplished the mount and appreciate whatever you have. Thanks for taking the time to post photos.
An option I've considered using to mount the spoiler are "well nuts." Your thoughts please.
Bill, I'm very interested in how you accomplished the mount and appreciate whatever you have. Thanks for taking the time to post photos.
An option I've considered using to mount the spoiler are "well nuts." Your thoughts please.
Jimmy,
The top two had to be attached using rivnuts. There was no way of getting a nut on the end. I found, when offering up the spoiler, that due to the curve of the rear body, the spoiler, or Guerney flap as it was known back then, sat a little proud of the body and needed those two bolts to hold it firmly to the rear clip. The vent holes cut in the rear clip also provided access to the nuts that secure the outer most bolts. For the remaining bolts I needed to cut access holes on the inside of the rear clip to have the ability to add nuts and be able to secure them effectively.
I hope I have explained it well enough. I don't have acces to the car right now to take pictures.
Martin
The top two had to be attached using rivnuts. There was no way of getting a nut on the end. I found, when offering up the spoiler, that due to the curve of the rear body, the spoiler, or Guerney flap as it was known back then, sat a little proud of the body and needed those two bolts to hold it firmly to the rear clip. The vent holes cut in the rear clip also provided access to the nuts that secure the outer most bolts. For the remaining bolts I needed to cut access holes on the inside of the rear clip to have the ability to add nuts and be able to secure them effectively.
I hope I have explained it well enough. I don't have acces to the car right now to take pictures.
Martin
Howard Jones
Supporter
Get a flat piece of steel about 1/16" thick and 3X3" square. Braze or weld a nice big nut onto the center, drill a bunch of 1/4" holes in it to make it easy for the filler to bond to, and fiberglass the whole thing in place inside the fender. I'm talking about the spot on the ouside that you can't get to easily.
Now you can simply screw in the retaining/adjustment bolt from the outside.
Gorilla hair or tiger hair works well and is easy to use.
Clausen - When Only The Best Will Do
Evercoat
Now you can simply screw in the retaining/adjustment bolt from the outside.
Gorilla hair or tiger hair works well and is easy to use.
Clausen - When Only The Best Will Do
Evercoat
I have several pics of my setup. But first I have many pics of spoiler setups that I have collected from the forum. They all have their unique differences and you will have to decide what you want before taking on this project. Some are taller than others. some are wider. And for sure the tag cutouts are very different and will affect the "look" of the spoiler.
I tried to make mine as symmetrical as I could. This is my first iteration and will probably be redone to look a little more aesthetic. I used stainless as that is what I used throughout my build. I wanted something that would stand up to the elements and wouldn't bend of deform if brushed up against. Downside is that I had to cut it with a plasma cutter and the heat tends to warp the stainless if allowed to cut to slowly. So it is a little wavy in the fender cutout area though hardly noticeable. I chose only a 3/4" show on the top side in this iteration. I may go for a little more on the next one.
The fender cutouts are 1/2"from the bottom edge and1 7/8" from the outside edge and are 2" tall. You will find that your measurements for the 6 screw holes in the middle will be off a tad as the measurements for the two sides of the rear clip may be off by a quarter inch or more. I used a paper cutout to make my spoiler. You can see it was still off a little at the tag cutout. The big bolts were 6 1/2" to 7" apart in order to get them even and near the tag cutout. I was working with 22 3/4" on one side and 23" on the other, from outer edge to the tag cutout. The fender vent is 6" wide and 2" tall. Its shape is just what looks good to you. Cut out several shapes you like with different slopes and widths, and see which one you like. I can supply the scale of mine if anyone wants it. Once you find he spot you want drill a hole in the middle and use the drill bit in the fiberglass to measure how far you are from the top of the work space underneath. You then will know where the top of the space is, and where the inner edge of the wheel well is on the inside of the clip. The cutout should go to it. Mine went a little past it and will be corrected by the painter.
You can see the difference in the distances for the inner edge of the wheel well, as the cutout was the same for both.The right side was cut first and was inside the well. the left side was cut without making the measurement and it went beyond the edge.
Adjust the cutout drawing to whatever gives you the clearance to that mark, and the distance you will need for the washers on the bolts to fit. The adjustment cutouts are whatever distance you want the spoiler to stand out above the clip on the tall side and to be at least even with the clip on the low side remembering that you have to allow for the inside washer.
The outside point is 1 7/8" in from the outside edge of the spoiler. I made the outside edge about a 1/4" beyond the body edge.
The top edge of the spoiler should match the body edge as much as possible. The bolts are about an inch in length. The washers are 1 1/2"(1 on the outside &one on the inside) and I used 2 rubber washers between the spoiler and the body(1 1/2")
to give a gap. They are about the thickness of the metal washers. I used nylocs with a lock washer on the underside to hold it tight. On the outside edge I used a smaller bolt because there wasn't much room to work with. The washers for it were 1".Here is what the inside looks like for the bolts.
The top inside edges will be filled in to make a smooth transition. I hope this helps out some.
Bill
I tried to make mine as symmetrical as I could. This is my first iteration and will probably be redone to look a little more aesthetic. I used stainless as that is what I used throughout my build. I wanted something that would stand up to the elements and wouldn't bend of deform if brushed up against. Downside is that I had to cut it with a plasma cutter and the heat tends to warp the stainless if allowed to cut to slowly. So it is a little wavy in the fender cutout area though hardly noticeable. I chose only a 3/4" show on the top side in this iteration. I may go for a little more on the next one.
The fender cutouts are 1/2"from the bottom edge and1 7/8" from the outside edge and are 2" tall. You will find that your measurements for the 6 screw holes in the middle will be off a tad as the measurements for the two sides of the rear clip may be off by a quarter inch or more. I used a paper cutout to make my spoiler. You can see it was still off a little at the tag cutout. The big bolts were 6 1/2" to 7" apart in order to get them even and near the tag cutout. I was working with 22 3/4" on one side and 23" on the other, from outer edge to the tag cutout. The fender vent is 6" wide and 2" tall. Its shape is just what looks good to you. Cut out several shapes you like with different slopes and widths, and see which one you like. I can supply the scale of mine if anyone wants it. Once you find he spot you want drill a hole in the middle and use the drill bit in the fiberglass to measure how far you are from the top of the work space underneath. You then will know where the top of the space is, and where the inner edge of the wheel well is on the inside of the clip. The cutout should go to it. Mine went a little past it and will be corrected by the painter.
You can see the difference in the distances for the inner edge of the wheel well, as the cutout was the same for both.The right side was cut first and was inside the well. the left side was cut without making the measurement and it went beyond the edge.
Adjust the cutout drawing to whatever gives you the clearance to that mark, and the distance you will need for the washers on the bolts to fit. The adjustment cutouts are whatever distance you want the spoiler to stand out above the clip on the tall side and to be at least even with the clip on the low side remembering that you have to allow for the inside washer.
The outside point is 1 7/8" in from the outside edge of the spoiler. I made the outside edge about a 1/4" beyond the body edge.
The top edge of the spoiler should match the body edge as much as possible. The bolts are about an inch in length. The washers are 1 1/2"(1 on the outside &one on the inside) and I used 2 rubber washers between the spoiler and the body(1 1/2")
to give a gap. They are about the thickness of the metal washers. I used nylocs with a lock washer on the underside to hold it tight. On the outside edge I used a smaller bolt because there wasn't much room to work with. The washers for it were 1".Here is what the inside looks like for the bolts.
The top inside edges will be filled in to make a smooth transition. I hope this helps out some.
Bill
Martin, Howard and Bill. Thanks for all the input. I now have enough info to make a very solid decision as to the best way to mount the gurney flap on the car. One of the great things about owning this type of car is the support of the members on this forum to all types of issues. This should never be underestimated by any potential new owner of this fantastic car. Many thanks.
Howard Jones
Supporter
Jimmy, Where are you in the USA? If you are nearby (Northern California) You are welcome to drop by and have a look at mine or dicuss any other issue you might have. I recieved a HUGE amount of help building my GT40 and continue to get a LOT of help with my SLC build from this forum. I am always happy to try and give some back if I can.
Howard, Thanks for the offer. I live in a small village outside of Gainesville, FL. So I'm pretty isolated but would love to know if there are any other GT40 owners close by. I'm only aware of Pat (Veek) in Orlando who has been very helpful. You can bet if I lived near you I'd have already paid you a visit since I've always admired the look of your car and the modifications you've made to it. Many thanks again.
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