Rear suspension radius link...

[Doc Watson]

Can anybody tell me how long the upper and lower radius links are.

I think I have found the inserts for the rod ends which will be brazed onto steel bar. The measurement required is the total length without rod ends installed.

Andy

 

[Rick Muck- Mark IV]

Have the upper

 

[Doc Watson]

Great, I can source new rod ends and calculate back from that..... anybody measured their bottoms yet????

Andy

 

[Dr. Bob Woods]

Andy,

In the Tornado kit, they are the same length.

-Bob Woods

 

[Doc Watson]

that would make sense as the geometry would be a parallelogram (yes I did need the spell checker for that).

Obviously there is some room for adjustment hence the rod ends.

Thanks for the help.

Andy

 

Haven't got mine to hand to measure Andy, but top and bottom look to be different lengths in this picture.

 

[Doc Watson]

Would be great if you could get some dimensions.... looking at your picture looks like I need to source some more unobtanium........ another question if I may, what is the plating used on originals? were they nickel plated or clear cadmium, and assuming the specification calls for a minimum plating thickness how does this affect the shafer bearing tolerances, or is there no plating around the bearing surfaces?

Andy

 

I will try to find out for you Andy.

 

[Rick Muck- Mark IV]

On a FAV/Gelscoe/SPF GT40 the upper and lower are different lengths.

 

[Graham Endeacott]

Hi Doc,

They are different lengths on the original cars.

I have the measurements but there's no guarantee that they will be the same for your monocoque. I can let you have them if you want but personally, I would rig up the rear suspension with what you have, set the wheel base to the correct dimension (95"), set the rear upright inclination (can't remember this offhand but I do have it) and then measure the distances for the radius arms.

PM me if you want the dimensions.

Regards,

 

[Jim Cowden]

I am with Graham

If the manufacturer of your chassis cant tell you .
I would assemble an upright and a wheel, set it at ride height, wheel placed on the track datum.
Then measure back to the chassis.
Make dummy arms even flat bar or tube and weld eyes on the end to be sure.

I would not use someone else s numbers unless it was the same chassis/upright.
Your avatar/signature does not state a brand.

Jim

 

[Doc Watson]

its a classic car developments (David Brown) monocoque, as close to an original as you can get, dont take my word for it ask Ronnie Spain......

 

[Jim Cowden]

DB would have the specs for sure.

Jim