rear view camera

Cam,
The RCA and bnc are adapters that you can wire yourself. With RCAyou basically have two wires that run the video and two that are power for the device(yellow and grnd., and red and black or grnd.) You also have white and black for audio. All of these can be wired by yourself. The leadsshield will come off and you attach the wires to the two parts of the plug. One usually is screwed to the central probe and one to the shield(grnd.) that surrounds the lead wire. easily done. The BNC is a usb type device that has from a few wires to about 10. These can be seperaed out from its cable and if you know their wiring scheme cam assign RCAs to each wire and then plug it into the apropreate device or plug. For the two cameras that I have (Runcam and Mobius) there are 5 wires to the usb. Power, grnd, audio, and video and one unused wire. This wire is shorted out to the video so that when it is turned on it tells the camera to output the video to the cable. you then hook this up to a monitor video wire and voila you have video of the camera in front of you. The bnc is for wireless setups and they are very expensive(for now anyway)
I took my board camera and hooked a RCA for the video(they come with a cable that gives you the video out) I ran a short cable to the cable from the monitor to the original camera that came with the setup(a small 400tvl camera) This cable was a 4 wire cable, power, audio, video, and grnd. Cut that connector off and separate the wires. I had to turn the monitor on and use the 12volt setting on the multimeter and run the other lead to grnd. Any reading tells you it is the power wire so I hook that to the power lead to the board camera. I then look for the common wire (grnd.). A buzzer on the ground or common channel tells me which wire that is. That leave two wires, audio and video. Hooking the video wire from the camera to one and you get nothing. That is the audio, as I have no audio on this camera. So that leaves the last wire as video. Hook it up and I have video on my monitor. You can get all you need at Radio Shack, if they haven't closed down all their stores in your area. If they have, order from any electronics store. Only cost a few $. If you don't have it get a good soldering iron and lead solder.
The board cam I have is 800tvl. Got it here: Sony 960H CCD Effio-V 800TVL Ultra WDR Camera 2.8mm Lens OSD
This camera and most of the others come with a powerful OSD board that you can program many features of the camera. It has a wide dynamic range that gives great images in all sorts of lighting conditions.You want it with the 3.6 lens. BTW most of these lens if too wide will give you a fish eye picture. You want the flattest lens you can find, thus the 3.6 The 2.8 and 2.4 will give you that fish eye. Most of these lens are set to infinity for focus. Focal length only comes into play when something is really close up. Go to Utube and search for these and other cameras and lens, and they will critique them and tell you what is good and what is not. I can give you a list of these guys. That is how they make a living. Their revues are what drives these company's sales. BTW look up how to make RCA jacks on Utube. They might even have BNCs If it were not for Utube, I think I would never have finished building my car. I have learned so much on there. TIG welding, how to paint my car etc.

Bill
 
The monitor that I have, similar to the ones that Allan uses, has an image reverse feature. It also has a trigger wire so it can be automated. The cheapie cameras I have also have the ability to flip the image. I can have images spinning all over the place! For my rear view camera I have decided to leave it inverted like a mirror all the time. I may try out another of these cameras listed above for the narrow angle. My quick searches, and purchases, have found that the common cameras are 170 degree view. Great for playing around, not for dedicated rear view. My issue is I would prefer small size for the roof cam, which is the best location for my mirror-replacing rear view. In traffic I don't want to be looking at the front suspension of the truck behind me. But these other cameras have large bodies, and I don't want to have a whale tail on my roof. This is what I currently have, but it won't stay there long



Thanks for the link, Cam. The power and signal connections on the Amazon camera match what I already have wired.

A.J.
 
I got in that Amazon camera and put the 16mm lens. Wow, you can actually see things in the rear view screen. The picture of this car is 110ft away, its like a telescope. The positioning is pretty critical now compared to the fisheye. I have it pointed down to see a little too much pavement. But at least I know if its a cop behind me...
 

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Dave Hood

Lifetime Supporter
For those of you looking for a simple and affordable rear view camera set-up, I highly recommend 4UCAM. It's a wireless bluetooth set-up that is easy to install. Only $109 from Amazon. Works on iPhone or Android devices. All you need to do is download the free App, and then place your phone on the dash to see everything behind you. The camera helps for parking, but also eliminates all blind spots as cars pass you on the highway as well.

iPhone Android iPad WIFI car backup camera

Dave
 
For those of you looking for a simple and affordable rear view camera set-up, I highly recommend 4UCAM. It's a wireless bluetooth set-up that is easy to install. Only $109 from Amazon. Works on iPhone or Android devices. All you need to do is download the free App, and then place your phone on the dash to see everything behind you. The camera helps for parking, but also eliminates all blind spots as cars pass you on the highway as well.

iPhone Android iPad WIFI car backup camera

Dave
I have that camera, but I'm using a traditional wired one now instead.

The major drawback is about a half-second latency. That doesn't sound like much, and for parking, it isn't. But for a rear view camera, if you are going 60 MPH, a half second is 44 feet. In the end, I wanted something more real time, which the wired cameras provide.
 
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