Renault UN1 output shaft issue

Evening all,

Just finished redoing the gearbox and have a final question, I knocked in both of the output shaft gear seals but think I have gone too far with one of them?
What is everyone’s opinion pull it out and buy another or it will be fine as it is???

In the pics you can see I set them both roughly the same but one side is in a little bit further and to make things worse the adaptor does not go in quite as far on that side...

I have already fitted the pin in the RH (bottom image) one but will take advice before fitting the other pin...

Cheers

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Shaun

Supporter
Mine did cover the gap on both sides, not sure how much of the seals integrity is this bit but I would suspect not as its not a great surface to run against at best
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Davidmgbv8

Supporter
This is what the tool looks like. Mine only just arrived 1 month ago and I ordered it before Xmas 2020. Took a long time to get to me in NZ from EU (seller blamed due to covid-19 items are taking a long time)
does anyone have the preload tool part number or where to buy as about to open my 369 box.
 

Davidmgbv8

Supporter
mum's the word send pics, checking to see if my case will take the ATB with out modification. whispering softly so the Mrs can't hear.
 
She’s all back together and ready to refit this week all being well.

I’ve filled it with oil and no leaks so already an improvement over the last time it went in…

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Looks great. You're going to enjoy the LSD. Before I installed the LSD in mine there was a lot of torque steer and inconsistent rear wheel traction. I think you'll find the car tracks straighter.

How did you set the diff bearing clearance? I used a very basic approach of a mounted dial gauge and wiggling the diff back and forth (with the diff disengaged from the pinion), and that seemed to work pretty well.
 
Thanks Cliff, certainly looking forward to taking it for a spin soon.

I set the preload by assembling the box with only the diff fitted then used a fishing scale and kept adjusting until I got a consistent and steady 8.5lb (I think that was the number but can’t be sure, but whatever the manual said) pull over several attempts, then stripped it all apart again refitted the primary and secondary shafts and rebuilt it.

Fingers crossed that I haven’t ballsed it up…
 
Thanks Cliff, certainly looking forward to taking it for a spin soon.

I set the preload by assembling the box with only the diff fitted then used a fishing scale and kept adjusting until I got a consistent and steady 8.5lb (I think that was the number but can’t be sure, but whatever the manual said) pull over several attempts, then stripped it all apart again refitted the primary and secondary shafts and rebuilt it.

Fingers crossed that I haven’t ballsed it up…

Got it. I was confused by what you meant by "preload" Sounds like you used a good approach.

When I've set diff bearing clearance I've used the other method of measuring bearing running clearance at cold (with a dial gauge)....leaving enough clearance such that when the bearings heat up the minimum bearing running clearance is maintained. There's different approaches here and it sounds like you followed the recommended approach for your transaxle so that's good.

Enjoy the rebuilt box!
 

Eddy McClements

Supporter
What sealant did you use on that case (red)? Looks like Hylomar...
Looks like one of the anaerobic sealants - remains liquid until cases are fitted together, then in the absence of air it hardens up. Any excess on the inside remains liquid and washes off into the trans. oil, so you don't get lumps or strands of excess sealant like you would with a silicone or PU sealant.

@Paulbav What is it...Loctite 518?
 
That's what I always use, anerobic sealant, washes into the oil, change the oil after a quick run in and you got it all out - although someone seems very happy with the amounts there - I use basically a transparent smear of it!

Ironically also just put ours together with an LSD, although in ours it's a plated, looking forward to seeing the difference!
 
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