Restarting my SLC project in West Texas

Joel K

Supporter
Looks like a very nice system and would be a nice option RCR could offer. Keep in mind I believe you need different hoses as well so it becomes pretty expensive to replace parts we already have purchased.
 
Looks like a very nice system and would be a nice option RCR could offer. Keep in mind I believe you need different hoses as well so it becomes pretty expensive to replace parts we already have purchased.
If you already have hoses, then the cost will be far too high, I didn't realize those were already in the kit. I did not have hoses, and the cost of the EZ Clip system was about the same as a standard system + buying a crimper (so EZ Clip was about $250 more).

You can find the stuff significantly cheaper on eBay.
 
I'd recommend running and trimming your A/C lines, putting your fittings on, and marking the orientation of each fitting (ie tape around the hose adjacent to each fitting, Sharpie line from the tape to the fitting). Then take them to a shop to get them crimped. They know what they are doing and it is cheap. I'm 90% of the way through my A/C system (different chassis).
 
Most use 5/8" heater hose both ways to the heater core along the passenger side of the chassis. If you look at Allan's build videos you can see that he routes the hoses up and to the top of the tub. Others like myself use Vintage Air adapters to go through the tub as shown in the first picture. The second picture is a drawing I made up of the A/C hose configuration.

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Some of us found the ac/heater output a little better if you join adjacent holes. Joining all the holes to make one big slot would weaken the structure in my opinion.
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Jags that Run....also called Stealth Conversions sells nice transition fittings in aluminum. Much more robust then the typical nylon fittings. The first picture is me pointing to the 3/4" to 5/8" transition fitting after the heater coolant shutoff valve. Mine is vacuum operated and OEM verses the OLD AIR Products electronic motor driven switch/valve. The 3/4" aluminum three way fitting goes up to the surge tank. The blue Goodyear hose is a really long lasting heavy duty hose. I highly recommend it. The best would be silicone hose though if you can afford it. As you can see I like to use Oetiker clamps where ever access is a problem. They are constant tension clamps that are as I call it...."set it and forget it". Worm drive clamps tend to back off with the heating and cooling cycles the hose/fittings go through.

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Do you all know what wire gauge is recommended for the Bosch 61944 high pressure pump and the walbro GSL392 low pressure pump?
Thanks. I have looked around a bit and cannot find a consistent answer. 10 gauge?
 
Jags that Run....also called Stealth Conversions sells nice transition fittings in aluminum. Much more robust then the typical nylon fittings. The first picture is me pointing to the 3/4" to 5/8" transition fitting after the heater coolant shutoff valve. Mine is vacuum operated and OEM verses the OLD AIR Products electronic motor driven switch/valve. The 3/4" aluminum three way fitting goes up to the surge tank. The blue Goodyear hose is a really long lasting heavy duty hose. I highly recommend it. The best would be silicone hose though if you can afford it. As you can see I like to use Oetiker clamps where ever access is a problem. They are constant tension clamps that are as I call it...."set it and forget it". Worm drive clamps tend to back off with the heating and cooling cycles the hose/fittings go through.

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Thanks Ken, great very helpful info.
 
I found a great table for amps vs psi, which is also helpful. I assume the pump will never pump more than 60 psi for an ls3 engine
 
If you already have hoses, then the cost will be far too high, I didn't realize those were already in the kit. I did not have hoses, and the cost of the EZ Clip system was about the same as a standard system + buying a crimper (so EZ Clip was about $250 more).

You can find the stuff significantly cheaper on eBay.
yes , the cost will be pretty high, I did not realize hoses would be different.
 

Howard Jones

Supporter
Mark we got to get together when you get settled. I'm in New Braunfels about a hour towards San Antonio south on I35. Hector, cute spaceman!
 
Check out the AC bulkhead fittings Dan used in his build, nice and low profile which is important for tucking in away from the body and it intruding into your foot box.

Your front brake line may need to have a secondary retention added to avoid it getting sucked into your tire while mid-turn/under vibration.

With the body in it can be difficult to see your fuel pressure gauge in that orientation, throw a 90 on there and point it so it’s face-up if you can. Not critical for initially tuning it, but if you ever have to troubleshoot fuel supply issues you’ll want to have a clear view of the gauge while you’re messing around back there otherwise you just get super frustrated.

I like having the gas strut placed as I do because it allows you to open the doors up nearly 90 degrees making ingress/egress so much easier. It also keeps those components readily accessible for ball joint maintenance/replacement - I expect they’ll wear out over time. If you go with the factory method I highly recommend shifting the pickup location on the J-hinge to get a larger door open position, I think I cover both options in my blog.

It’s great to hear you’re bouncing back from your health concerns and you’re able to get back into the project. I’ll PM you my number, feel free to reach out at any time.
 

Mark B.

Supporter
Hey Howard, definitely -- I'd love to see your car! I can't wait to get out on COTA when I'm done

I completely agree on the AC bulkhead fittings. Reasonably cheap and make the install much more clean in my opinion.
 
Check out the AC bulkhead fittings Dan used in his build, nice and low profile which is important for tucking in away from the body and it intruding into your foot box.

Your front brake line may need to have a secondary retention added to avoid it getting sucked into your tire while mid-turn/under vibration.

With the body in it can be difficult to see your fuel pressure gauge in that orientation, throw a 90 on there and point it so it’s face-up if you can. Not critical for initially tuning it, but if you ever have to troubleshoot fuel supply issues you’ll want to have a clear view of the gauge while you’re messing around back there otherwise you just get super frustrated.

I like having the gas strut placed as I do because it allows you to open the doors up nearly 90 degrees making ingress/egress so much easier. It also keeps those components readily accessible for ball joint maintenance/replacement - I expect they’ll wear out over time. If you go with the factory method I highly recommend shifting the pickup location on the J-hinge to get a larger door open position, I think I cover both options in my blog.

It’s great to hear you’re bouncing back from your health concerns and you’re able to get back into the project. I’ll PM you my number, feel free to reach out at any time.
Thanks for all the tips . Much appreciated
 
Heater circuit question for you all. I am planning to connect the steam vent lines (4 corner) directly to the water pump and not to the surge tank. I am using the old Air 50-155 electronic heater control valve. do I really need to tee into the surge tank and then to the 3/4" IN port or can I go directly from the heater control valve outlet to the 3/4" IN port, since I am not connecting the steam vents to the surge tank . Thank you. I am basing my circuit on the diagram provided by DCarter.
 
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