Restarting my SLC project in West Texas

One more question, can I put the canister (to control smell ) and the rollover valve in series with the valve at the end, and both connected to the tank vent port. Thank you
 
Copy/pasting this from Mason’s build thread ...

IIRC the LS motors require some amount of fluid flow between the out/in ports for the heater core (and is why everyone runs the Chevs of the 40s valve) in order for the thermostat to function correctly. I did a deep dive into this while I was working on my system -

There’s a link on my blog to another site (pirates4x4 or something like that) which has a very in depth discussion pertinent to LS based motors.

There’s a link on my blog to another site (pirates4x4 or something like that) which has a very in depth discussion pertinent to LS based motors. Read this and you’ll learn just about everything you need to know about Collin an LS motor.

You want to run your vent lines into the surge tank because it’s at the highest point in your system. If you plumb it into your pump it won’t vent correctly, I don’t think your water pump will be able to scavenge the steam and you’re likely to overheat your engine.
 
Copy/pasting this from Mason’s build thread ...

IIRC the LS motors require some amount of fluid flow between the out/in ports for the heater core (and is why everyone runs the Chevs of the 40s valve) in order for the thermostat to function correctly. I did a deep dive into this while I was working on my system -

There’s a link on my blog to another site (pirates4x4 or something like that) which has a very in depth discussion pertinent to LS based motors.

There’s a link on my blog to another site (pirates4x4 or something like that) which has a very in depth discussion pertinent to LS based motors. Read this and you’ll learn just about everything you need to know about Collin an LS motor.

You want to run your vent lines into the surge tank because it’s at the highest point in your system. If you plumb it into your pump it won’t vent correctly, I don’t think your water pump will be able to scavenge the steam and you’re likely to overheat your engine.
Great info, Cam, thanks a lot , so I wonder why there is a ton of videos of LS engine 4corner steam vents connected directly into the water pump (just tapped)
 
I have a AC crimp kit you can borrow via UPS. Not sure how far "West" your West Texas is. I will be in Lubbock/Amarillo this summer racing and will be in Fort Stockton/Sanderson racing the last week of September.
 
I am in San Angelo, 3 hours from Lubbock and 3 hours from Ft Stockton, if you are driving from Lubbock to Ft stockton you will pass through San Angelo. I hope we can get together . Thank you very much for the offer .
 
The blue Goodyear hose is a really long lasting heavy duty hose. I highly recommend it.
I wonder if that has similar specs to the Gates blue stuff (also available in black). The Gates is rated for 300F and 250PSI. Safe for Methanol/Ethanol/Gas/Oil. We use it for fuel/oil/water. Works with push-loc fittings or hose barbs/clamps.

As you can see I like to use Oetiker clamps where ever access is a problem.
Strongly agree. Buy the tool. Buy an assortment of clamps (don't have to be Oetiker brand). I use them everywhere I don't expect to need to get the hose off. So if it needs to come off to R&R the engine, I use a hose clamp. Otherwise, I'm using these now. I used to use safety wire for those hoses, this is much quicker. AND.... no hose clamp end to get CUT ON.
 
I wonder if that has similar specs to the Gates blue stuff (also available in black). The Gates is rated for 300F and 250PSI. Safe for Methanol/Ethanol/Gas/Oil. We use it for fuel/oil/water. Works with push-loc fittings or hose barbs/clamps.



Strongly agree. Buy the tool. Buy an assortment of clamps (don't have to be Oetiker brand). I use them everywhere I don't expect to need to get the hose off. So if it needs to come off to R&R the engine, I use a hose clamp. Otherwise, I'm using these now. I used to use safety wire for those hoses, this is much quicker. AND.... no hose clamp end to get CUT ON.
I am the cutting myself all the time type, so I appreciate the tip . I absolutely hate those nasty clamp ends.
 

Randy V

Admin
Lifetime Supporter
Anywhere I can't use a the stepless clamps I use a T-bolt clamp. I'm so tired of cutting myself on a worm clamp.

No place that I’m aware of - however - given the ability of these clamps to impart far more force, I would be careful to apply only a minimal amount of torque to them so as to not deform anything..
 

Neil

Supporter
I've posted about Gates Powerband clamps before but you may not have seen it. These are heat-shrink clamps that are high strength plastic clamps which replace other types but offer better performance. One advantage is that they apply clamping force uniformly around the hose and they can conform to out-of-round fittings. To remove, melt a groove in them with a soldering iron; this leaves the hose undamaged.
 
I've posted about Gates Powerband clamps before but you may not have seen it. These are heat-shrink clamps that are high strength plastic clamps which replace other types but offer better performance. One advantage is that they apply clamping force uniformly around the hose and they can conform to out-of-round fittings. To remove, melt a groove in them with a soldering iron; this leaves the hose undamaged.
I’m using these on my current build, and boy does it get expensive if you have to start cutting these for troubleshooting. Make sure you are happy with everything before you put the heat on these bad boys.
 
I've posted about Gates Powerband clamps before but you may not have seen it. These are heat-shrink clamps that are high strength plastic clamps which replace other types but offer better performance. One advantage is that they apply clamping force uniformly around the hose and they can conform to out-of-round fittings. To remove, melt a groove in them with a soldering iron; this leaves the hose undamaged.
Wow!! very cool, never heard of them before. I am all over that, hopefully they are not super expensive. I am finding out that the oetiker clamps don't come in sizes above 1 inch diameter, so not an option for radiator hoses. Happy to have more elegant choices than ugly worm clamps . Thank you very much Neil.
 
I’m using these on my current build, and boy does it get expensive if you have to start cutting these for troubleshooting. Make sure you are happy with everything before you put the heat on these bad boys.
Yes I was afraid of that. But still good to have good choices even if they are expensive.
 
Most use 5/8" heater hose both ways to the heater core along the passenger side of the chassis. If you look at Allan's build videos you can see that he routes the hoses up and to the top of the tub. Others like myself use Vintage Air adapters to go through the tub as shown in the first picture. The second picture is a drawing I made up of the A/C hose configuration.

View attachment 106932View attachment 106934
Ken,

Pardon my ignorance , I am trying to order the bulkhead fittings for a/c lines and heater hoses, I can see the fittings coming out of the footbox, but what do the fittings look like on the other end (inside the foot box) is it an AN type fitting? Thanks
 
Heater hoses are usually a #10AN fitting with a 5/8 barb for the hose. The AC will be a #10 O-Ring AN and a #6 O-Ring AN.
 
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