Ride Height

Target ride height with 0.5-1.0” different front to rear, with rear being higher. I have 4” and 4.5” blocks that I slide under my car for measurement. To adjust, get load off your wheels, loosen the 2 adjustment collars, then back the collar closest to the spring down or up depending on which way you need that corner to go. Set the height by using the outer collar as a jam. Drive car a few miles then come back and measure, you’ll find the suspension settles initially and may settle once you get 100+ miles on the car.

this is if you don’t care about corner balancing and are strictly shooting for aesthetics. If you want to corner balance go to a pro if you’ve never done it before.

target ride height will be based on your driving conditions. With a street splitter I’m at 4.0” measured inboard of the front spindle, on the flat part of the chassis. I also run the lift kit at the front. I don’t have very many issues though the occasional scrape happens. I do engage the lift while driving if I’m going through a construction zone but I try not to drive with the lift engaged at all if I can avoid it.

not sure I’d this was the information you were looking for, let me know if the above misses the mark.
 

Mike Pass

Supporter
I agree with Cam. I run 4" front and 4.5" rear clearance. However if you set the car unoccupied it will change when you get in. A simple way round this is to place bags of gravel in the car equivalent to your weight before setting the ride height. As Cam says the best way to set this is using corner weight scales. This will allow very exact ride height and corner weight setting. If you imagine a four legged stool with two legs diagonally opposite which are slightly longer than the other two. The height of the stool may be correct but the load on each leg will be uneven. The corner weight scales allow you to dial this out so that the car is balaced.
Cheers
Mike
 

Michael Fling

Supporter
Target ride height with 0.5-1.0” different front to rear, with rear being higher. I have 4” and 4.5” blocks that I slide under my car for measurement. To adjust, get load off your wheels, loosen the 2 adjustment collars, then back the collar closest to the spring down or up depending on which way you need that corner to go. Set the height by using the outer collar as a jam. Drive car a few miles then come back and measure, you’ll find the suspension settles initially and may settle once you get 100+ miles on the car.

this is if you don’t care about corner balancing and are strictly shooting for aesthetics. If you want to corner balance go to a pro if you’ve never done it before.

target ride height will be based on your driving conditions. With a street splitter I’m at 4.0” measured inboard of the front spindle, on the flat part of the chassis. I also run the lift kit at the front. I don’t have very many issues though the occasional scrape happens. I do engage the lift while driving if I’m going through a construction zone but I try not to drive with the lift engaged at all if I can avoid it.

not sure I’d this was the information you were looking for, let me know if the above misses the mark.
Ty.... perfect
 
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