Running in oil

[Don]

Hi,

I have just read the latest edition of the Fortification Magazine, inside is a very interesting article about the quality of various oils. This highlighted that you need a bit of close contact in the engine to get everything to bed in. So for this you need an oil with a high content on zinc to facilitate this contact. I have initially gone for a fully synthetic oil, but having read this article I am not sure there will be enough close contact to bed in. What’s the general opinion ? What are people using to run their engines in.

 

[Walter Williams]

DELO OIL HIGH ZINC

 

[Mike Pass]

The oil with the highest ZDDP (zinc) content is Lucas Racing. As recommended by Kenny Coleman at EDA. You can get it from there. It's what I use after they dropped the ZDDP level in the Valvoline VR1. Joe Gibbs Racing also has a high level of ZDDP.
There is a website which has tested lots of oils for ultimate breakdown loading and ZDDP content. The highest loading and ZDDP content was Lucas Racing. It does not have detergents etc. and as the ZDDP is used up in use it should be changed very regularly.
Cheers
Mike

 

[Tom]

other point of advice is that the engine should not run synthetic in the first instance. It should run dino oil to allow piston rings to wear in properly, promoting good ring seal. After break in, synthetic can be used.

 

[JP Verweij]

Valvoline VR1 Racing 20W50 is a great break in oil. 1600ppm ZDDP.
First 20 minuts. 2500rpm break in time. Hardens the lobes of the cam etcetera. Don't shut off unless you can not fix it and have real issues.
First 20 minuts @2500rpm is the most importand time.
After that retorque head bolts.

After the first 300mile oil + filter change, again Valvoline VR1 Racing 20W50.
After the second 300mile oil + filter change and you are good to go.

Build several engines all runned in this way. Won't give any warranty to my customers if they don't.

Most classic oils are suitable for break in, run in.
Listed have more than 1000PPM ZDDP( Zinc)
Millers Pistoneze Mini 20W50
Valvoline VR1 Racing 20W50
Penrite Classic 20W50
Duckhams Classic Q20W50
Östol Oldtimer oil 15W50 of 20W50.

Forget Castrol Classic, it has less.

 

[JP Verweij]

For the US community please fill in your oil brands as I only listed oil brands that are Legal available in Europe & the UK.
Brands like Brad Penn are not legal available in Europe anymore as they don't carry European approval.

 

[Walter Williams]

SORRY, NOT FAMILIAR WITH EUROPE & UK OILS HERE IN THE STATES..

 

[Howard Jones]

I have done the following: new filter (good one like a K&N) not a cheapo, 6 or 7 quarts of any name brand 30w non-synthetic, and a bottle of this stuff.

Run at 2500rpms for 25-30 min. Check oil pressure right away and every couple of mins. Check water temp as soon as it comes up to temp and insure it holds at nominal temp.

Shut down and drain the oil and thrown away the filter. Refill with the full amount of your preferred running oil. I would recommend high ZDDP content whatever you decide on. Use quality filters for so many reasons it deserves its own thread. Again I prefer K&N and Valvoline.

Run the car for 500 miles or 10 hours and replace the filter and oil. You can now use the car as you will and use your preferred oil/filter maintenance schedule. I do mine every January.

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Amazon.com: Valvoline VR1 Racing SAE 20W-50 Motor Oil 5 QT, Case of 3 : Everything Else

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[Neil]

John Horsman told me that they used to break-in their Cosworth DFV engines by starting them up on a dynamometer, putting them under load and lightly sprinkling Bon Ami cleaner into the intakes. He said that in only a few seconds they would see the torque climb up as the rings seated.

 

[JP Verweij]

John Horsman told me that they used to break-in their Cosworth DFV engines by starting them up on a dynamometer, putting them under load and lightly sprinkling Bon Ami cleaner into the intakes. He said that in only a few seconds they would see the torque climb up as the rings seated.

That doesn't break-in new cams & lifters. Thats where the 2500rpm/25minuts and high content ZDDP oil come's around.

 

[Neil]

True. Lots of ZDP is important if you have a flat-tappet cam but with roller cams and needle-bearing rocker arms it isn't vital.

 

[Jac Mac]

Ever since I started cutting the cam lobe oiler groove in the lifter bores Ive been able to dispense with the running in oils, now I just use a Diesel 10/40 oil- non synthetic- no cam/lifter problems yet. Still running flat tappets in with soft springs though and keep rpm down around 2500/3000 for an hour.. No ZDDP, but no objections if owner feels the need. The lifter bore groove seems to be doing the trick.

 

[Randy V]

Ever since I started cutting the cam lobe oiler groove in the lifter bores Ive been able to dispense with the running in oils, now I just use a Diesel 10/40 oil- non synthetic- no cam/lifter problems yet. Still running flat tappets in with soft springs though and keep rpm down around 2500/3000 for an hour.. No ZDDP, but no objections if owner feels the need. The lifter bore groove seems to be doing the trick.

Interesting... I have grooved lifters themselves that had the oiling hole above the oil channel recess, but not the block. How wide/deep? How much oil pressure is lost and did you add anything detectable to windage?

Also - I used to be able to buy solid flat tappet lifters that has a laser hole burned through the face of the lifter at the center.. Have not seen those in 15 years or so now - but admittedly have not searched for them.

 

[Brian Kissel]

For the lifter bore groove, I bought a Comp Cams tool. I have the .842, .875, and the .904 adapters. I also have BHJ tooling to realign the lifter bores and put brass sleeves in the bores, and I still put grooves in them also.

Regards Brian

 

[Jac Mac]

Interesting... I have grooved lifters themselves that had the oiling hole above the oil channel recess, but not the block. How wide/deep?About 0.030" wide, ~0.015'' deep How much oil pressure is lost and did you add anything detectable to windage? Still run restrictor in race/solid lifter setup, dont worry about it for hyd lifter, no real noticeable windage increase or drop in oil pressure. Still running std oil pumps, no Hi Volume.

Also - I used to be able to buy solid flat tappet lifters that has a laser hole burned through the face of the lifter at the center.. Have not seen those in 15 years or so now - but admittedly have not searched for them.

 

[JP Verweij]

......... now I just use a Diesel 10/40 oil- non synthetic-..................No ZDDP, ............

Diesel oil normaly contains about 1100-1500PPM ZDDP. Its mostly primary ZDDP which activates at a higher temperature, which is less effective in a petrol engine with greater temperature range.

Diesel oils contains dopes to fight the soot contamination, dopes we don't like in a petrol engine.
Diesel oils are not developed for 7000rpm.

 

[Jac Mac]

I should have added that I dont use diesel oil in a situation where the engine has a few years of contamination under its belt and while its in the 'run-in phase' it wont see 7000!!! IIRC someone posted an article where it was mentioned that USA diesel oils were in the process of reducing the ZDDP levels to satisfy the EPA etc which was causing a few issues in the trucking industry, probably amongst the operators with older vehicles.

 

[Howard Jones]

Jac! And that's the problem! The constantly changing ZDDP levels in the available oils here in the USA. There is a mandated schedule that over several years eliminates ZDDP to or near zero. What was a perfectly adequate oil (zddp content) a couple of years ago may now not be good enough because it has been reformulated.

This is a hard thing to keep up with from oil change to oil change and then a few years have gone by, you rebuild your engine and F'ing hell the cam lobes are gone in ten mins during the run-in! This why I put my own ZDDP in!

The stuff I have recommended above added each oil change is VERY cheap insurance. Not to mention to use for a run-in of a brand new engine.

AND...............Jac is right again! Grooved lifters are the solution for flat tappet cams. AND so is Neil. Roller lifters/rockers are the response to the ZDDP regulated reduction legislation.

 

[Jac Mac]

There are a few other things I do during engine assy that can save a lot of grief, This applies to Ford pushrod engines only, Chevs need a bit of extra thought to make some of these work.
When fitting new cam bearing shells, it is best if you use a jig that will pull the cam bearings into position. I use a piece of 3/4" bar stock that fits neatly in the mandrels, fit #1 first and ensure that both the oil holes are lined up with those in the block. Then fit the cam and ensure that the rear cam journal is concentric with #5 cam bearing bore in the block. By doing that the front bearing should be square in the block and the cam should turn freely, next repeat the installation of #5 cam bearing, install this bearing so that it partially blocks off the oil feed coming up from the main bearing tunnel and acts as a restrictor and do that with respect of the cam rotation so that should the bearing turn slightly in the block the oil flow would increase. Now install the cam in block and check that it turns freely, if it doesnt now is the time to correct this with a bearing scraper. Everything good?, now repeat the process with #3 cam bearing, then #2 , then #4. By doing this and rechecking until the cam turns freely each time you wont have to hunt for the tight clearance bearing. Now oil the bearings & set the cam in place with thrust plate & cam sprocket bolted on, oil all cam followers and fit into lifter bores. Now get your battery drill, fit 9/16" AF socket , mark each lifter at pushrod end with a sharpie and spin the cam with the drill while applying light finger pressure to each lifter ( easier if you use a pushrod on each lifter.). Each lifter should spin freely and not feel tight in the bores. If any dont spin the block might have a lifter bore that is not machined at the correct angle and be likely to fail a lifter or cam load in the first few minutes of start-up. If you dont see this happening the metal that is worn from the cam & lifter will do further damage to your nice new engine.