Safety wiring

[Bill Musarra]

Researching safety wiring for my pin drive wheels, I cam across an article on safety wiring. The article was borrowed from another forum by the poster. It has some info for even the seasoned builder. Save the info for that day you go to wire your bolts and other pieces:

Here is the next installment in the Rogue How To series. Today we will go through the steps of how to safety wire your bike. The first thing we will need to do is gather all the supplies we will need. One small note that I can not emphasize enough is to be patient and take your time. Do not get in a rush as this will only cause you grief. Before beginning read through the wiring requirements of your Organization and create a check list of things that need to be drilled and wired.

The first step is to gather all the tools and supplies you will need.

The Tools.

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You will need the following tools.

-Torque Wrench
-Metric Socket Set
-Drill either Corded or Cordless
-Plenty of 3/32 Titanium Drill bits
-Automatic Center Punch
-Safety Wiring Pliers
-.032" T-304 Stainless Steel Wire
-There are a couple of optional items shown. I like using my linesman cutters(the large blue pliers on the right) to cut the wire to length as the cutters on the Safety Wire Pliers are not as good. The small blue punch on the left is for removing any broken drill bits(You will break at least one).


I will assume that if you are under taking this process that all the bodywork has been removed from the bike. If it hasn't then do so now. Next make sure all the bolts have been torqued to the proper specs. It's a good idea to check them again just to be sure.

Now that you have checked them all it's time to start marking them for drilling.

Grab a Sharpie and mark the sides of the bolt heads you plan to drill. Usually these will be the ones facing to the outside of the bike.

Once you have the side marked that you like to drill it's time to grab the Automatic Center Punch.

Before removing the bolt use the Automatic Center Punch to mark the location for the drill bit to start.The punch will create a divot in the bolt head so that the bit will stay centered were you want to drill. If you do not use a punch the bit will move around and make it hard to drill with any precision which is referred to as walking. Remove the bolts from the bike.

Now it's time to drill. I can not emphasize enough to take your time with this step. Rushing will only cause you to break bits and will end up being very frustrating. Also when drilling use a light weight cutting oil and keep the end of the bit coated in oil. This will make the bit cut easier as well as last longer before becoming dull. Also if the bit becomes dull toss it.

The best way to accomplish the drilling is on a drill press but some of you will not have these available. Those that do not have access to a drill press may choose to drill them on the bike. I personally drill mine on the bike but this will require you to be a little more thoughtful about how and where you drill. Drilling on the bike will also make you more prone to breaking drill bits. Again take your time and drill slowly.

IF YOU AREN'T HANDY WITH A DRILL I HIGHLY SUGGEST TAKING THE DRILL PRESS ROUTE.

When drilling Allen Head bolts be sure to drill through to of the flats portions of the bolt as indicated by the 2 red arrows. This will assure you do not create a weak point in the portion of the bolt where the most torque is applied.

Work on one section at a time so that you do not miss any bolts that will need to be wired.


Now that things have been drilled it's time to move on to the wiring portion of this project. When routing safety wire you always want to route it in a way that it is always pulling in such a manner as to keep the bolt from coming loose. In the pictures below I will demonstrate the correct method of Routing and Securing the Safety Wire.

First pull about 10 inches of wire out of the container and cut it. Straighten the wire by pulling it through 2 fingers until the coils are fairly straight. Now pass it through the first bolt head and line the 2 ends up so that you have effectively found the center of the length of wire.

Notice in the photo above that I have looped and pulled the wire in the opposite direction of the way the bolt would loosen from the fork leg. Now grab the wire just before it reaches the other bolt head and clamp your Safety Wire Pliers onto the wire.

Now use the pliers to twist the wire to this point. Be careful not to over twist the wire. You are looking for consistent coils. If you twist it to tight the wire will break. This may take a few tries to find the ideal amount of twist. Be patient you will get better at it.

If you get it right it should look like the example above.

Now thread one side of the remaining portion of the wire through the other bolt head, again observing the direction in which you route the wire.

Again measure back to the next point and clamp the Safety Wire Pliers back onto the wire and twist.

Now we will route the wire back to the final attachment point and secure the end.

THe final step is to cut the end to length and fold it over onto itself to lock the end of the wire in place.

The end result should look like the example below.

Here are some more samples of finished wiring to use as a guide.

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In the example above note that the Wire is routed through the inside of the spring. This will keep the exhaust on the bike should the end of the spring break off.

Here are some images of safety wiring and wiring devices:

Image Search Results for safety wiring

 

[Ben]

Be careful with safety wire, or you could be immortalized in a Boeing safety brief like me. Small accident at Hill AFB in Utah while changing out a brake stack on an F-16. haha.

 

[Seymour Snerd]

Be careful with safety wire.

That leads me to a question: are there any safety wire pliers who's cutter is a shear or otherwise makes a square cut?

 

[Ben]

I'm sure the Air Force would be using those if there were any, but I've never seen nor heard of such a thing.

 

[Seymour Snerd]

I'm sure the Air Force would be using those if there were any, but I've never seen nor heard of such a thing.

I have them as a separate cutter: Excelite 134CG shear cutters.

http://www.cooperhandtools.com/onlinecatalog/Technical_Specifications/134CG_Specifications.pdf

Here's another:

Industrial Tools - 2193 Profile

Would sure be nice if the built-in cutter in the wire twisters worked this way. Guess I'll just carry two tools. :sad:

Of course if the twister's cutters are true side-cutters, then at least one side of the cut will be square. Then you could flip them over and cut the other side square . And then find the nasty little piece of wire that just fell on the ground, and in trying to pick it up immediately stab yourself.....

I think I'll carry two tools. :sad:

 

[David]

One thing to note (although I'm sure most people here know this already) is that if you are drilling stainless it work hardens, ensure you use a sharp bit and lots more pressure otherwise you'll get nowhere.

Personally I quite like when securing socket cap screws to finish inside the bolt, bring both ends of the wire into the middle and then twist them inline with the screw axis, that way the end can be neatly tucked in with less chance of catching yourself on it.

 

[Maurice Butler]

home built aircraft sites are a mine of information on strong light weight structures and things like lockwire

 

[David]

Hah, see Figure 1-11, I'm doing it correctly without even knowing it.

 

[Scott Calabro]

Always end the twist at a hole, not on the side of a fastener.

Always use wire that is 50% of the hole size.

Always put the 'Wrap around wire" under the "through wire".

Always twist the pigtail in the opposite direction.

Always try to get the wire tight between the fasteners.

Try not to mark up the wire too much with the jaws of the pliers.

Saftey wire cuts and punctures are sometimes part of the deal.

................................

This tool is expensive but yields fantastic results.

We have one in the shop and use it often for difficult/tight areas.

http://www.amtonline.com/interactive/2006/03/09/safety-wiring-made-easy/

 

[Maurice Butler]

Always try to get the wire tight between the fasteners.

Always get the wire tight between the fasteners.
NO try about it.
If it is not tight cut it off and start again - practice makes perfect.

And I do have good scars on my hands and lower arms from lock wire from where the ends have not been folded over completely it will get you when you least expect.:furious:

 

[Seymour Snerd]

And I do have good scars on my hands and lower arms from lock wire from where the ends have not been folded over completely it will get you when you least expect.:furious:

Maurice and Scott -- why do people who do a lot of safety wiring put up with that risk when a solution (shear cutters) is so readily at hand? What am I missing?

 

[Terry Oxandale]

Great thread on this topic. Very informative!

 

[Scott Calabro]

Maurice and Scott -- why do people who do a lot of safety wiring put up with that risk when a solution (shear cutters) is so readily at hand? What am I missing?

Alan,

Good question. I cant really say except that I was tought to safety wire by an old timer in A&P school, and he only let me use three tools. A pair of dikes, duckbill pliers and needle nose pliers. I cut my hands a lot there! Wait till you get your first real cut, not a puncture from the wire but a cut from pulling the wire tight as you twist it by hand! I would say 65% of the wiring I do is by hand.

In many situations (on an aircraft) the shear cutters would not easily be able to get to the area you need to cut. Generally speaking, on a '40, all you are really going to do is the wheel spinners, so not an issue there. Lots of times I have to wire something without putting my eyes on it due to its location and access. Also, I don't think that how its cut will make much difference as a correctly wound pigtail is very stiff and would bite you anyway. Maurice makes a very good point about folding the pigtail to prevent snagging your hand, arm, clothes etc.

I've wired for so long now (way too long!) that I very rarely get a cut or scrape anyway.

Like Maurice said, practice makes perfect.

Cheers,
Scott

 

[Maurice Butler]

Maurice and Scott -- why do people who do a lot of safety wiring put up with that risk when a solution (shear cutters) is so readily at hand? What am I missing?

Its what you we taught to do on military aircraft 35 years ago and they were still doing when I left the airforce 14 years later.

And as mention eariler you got to the point where you were removing and refitting components that you could only see with a mirror and reach with one hand, and on the flight line that was a lot quicker than pulling an engine just to change one small part.