No way to do it without seeing bolts/screws from the top. Being wood with no gel coat on it to crack, it will be fine. If I hit something, it will take a chunk out, not rip it off this way.
Scotts build thread
- Thread starter Scott R.
- Start date
No way to do it without seeing bolts/screws from the top. Being wood with no gel coat on it to crack, it will be fine. If I hit something, it will take a chunk out, not rip it off this way.
Looking at kicking the finishes up a notch. Got some carbon/blue kevlar weave matting. At minimum I will be wrapping all splitters (sides and front), rear wing, inside headlights, front wings, and some other accent parts. I have some vinyl ester on the way to get going on it. What ever color the kevlar is once laminated in final, I can match the rest of the cars paint to.
This stuff is relatively cheap at about $3 a square foot. If the other parts come out good, I may try to do the whole body!
This stuff is relatively cheap at about $3 a square foot. If the other parts come out good, I may try to do the whole body!
yup! Hit 4-5 wet coats on it and sand and buff.
I have used what looks like the same fabric. It doesn't drape like regular 3K carbon, in part because the Kevlar is stiffer. Based on my experience, it might be a good idea to plan all the pieces you will see and cut them carefully, then do a dry fitup first so you completely understand how you plan to drape it.
Ya, the initial pieces I have planned to do, should be a snap since they are flat or single axis bends. If I attempt the whole body, that will be an entirely different thing. I just had to spend $40 on a pair of shears to cut this stuff. The kevlar makes it really tough to cut.
Should add a cool effect.
Got the tail light mounts done today. Pretty easy really once I had the right stuff. Nice and clean. Simple to remove.
Here is the larger hexagon mesh. Got all of these formed today too.
Here is the larger hexagon mesh. Got all of these formed today too.
Correct. Two layers on outside of foam. Removed, then 2 layers inside. Then finished exterior side. The splice cuts i made to join the two compensated for the extra width associated with building up the exterior of the mold.
Quickest way to the finished product this way. Plus, if i do mold it, it will be molded from a finished perfect part with all flanges in place already.
Thank you. Yup, lots of work. I really enjoy this creative stuff, but dam, I am getting sick of always being itchy! Haha. Light at the end of the tunnel.
Coming along. Starting to design the wing mounts and wing position now. Will pick up the last pieces needed for the hinges tomorrow and get that part wrapped up soon.
:stunned: Odds are very high that car is going to create beaucoup rear-enders and assorted fender benders every time you take it out on the road! :2thumbsup: :2thumbsup:
An aside: As I recall, your driveway was built on a steep incline? Once the car reaches the foot of it, how do you plan to get it on/off the street w/o scraping the bejeebers out of its underside (especially its chin spoiler and rear diffuser)...or does the driveway level out enough at that point?
(In my own case, a 'portable' wooden bridge served as a temporary solution until I could get my driveway regraded.)
An aside: As I recall, your driveway was built on a steep incline? Once the car reaches the foot of it, how do you plan to get it on/off the street w/o scraping the bejeebers out of its underside (especially its chin spoiler and rear diffuser)...or does the driveway level out enough at that point?
(In my own case, a 'portable' wooden bridge served as a temporary solution until I could get my driveway regraded.)
The ground clearance I am setting for the car is 3.5" under the main chassis. The front splitter will be about 3.25" off ground, the rear diffuser at about 4". Honestly, that is a mile compared to how I set other cars at about 2" hahaa. That height puts the lower control arms nearly level in both front or back, which should always be your start baseline in a correctly designed suspension.
Luckily, the SLC can look very low, without being ground scrapingly low. I can come across my driveway at a 45 degree angle, and it should clear, or just a slight scrape under the front. If it really is a problem, I can just add a front lift kit and it should be fine. Once the rear hinge is done, and the rear wing, I will pull it out and do a trial run. It did actually make it in originally without scraping amazingly.
I still may run teflon "slider" strips under the main chassis to help me slide over high points.
The rear end of the car looks awesome. Wow.
Oh heck I thought you were keeping those roller wheels under the rear Like in the second pic. LOL Great looking project going to scare a lot of old ladies LOL Batman got nothin on you LOL
Gotcha. For some reason, I was under the impression the street-to-driveway pitch difference was far more severe than approaching it at a "45" would remedy. (I recall wondering just how the devil you got the car into the garage in the 1st place!)
Thanks Kent. I am close to having a paint scheme and colors picked out. It should be flat nasty looking with how I plan to cut the paint job up and colors.
Everything chassis wise will be black, so alot of the inner parts viewed from the rear, will blend in more and focus will come back onto the body work, not what is behind it.
Thanks Mike. I have almost done that before on other lowered cars. Little rollers front and back like a motorhome has. Lol.
I had my GTS Viper set at 2" off the ground on the splitter (it has a very similar overhang distance) and it would scrape, but only a touch. It is possible, but you have to zig zag, and turn at the right points. Lol.
Hoping to be out of this house in a year or so. And have a proper big shop! On level ground! Haha
