Settings......Camber...Toe...Shocks ...

[John Cohen]

Hi All i have fitted front Canards and at speed i can feel a difference . but just poodling about the front wants to go with road lines ruts and just doesnt feel right bit twitchy . What have you guys and gals set your front ends at .......... Any help would be great thanks ..

John.

 

[Jim Cowden]

All these cars are different John so finer details will change depending on dynamic changes in suspension angles.
On the front I run about 2,5 deg neg , 2mm toe in per side, 6 deg caster, 0 dump steer.
Rear 0 caster 0 neg 1 mm toe in per side.
Cant remember what the roll centres are but the rear is higher than the front , front from memory was about 80mm.

They can be sensitive on some surfaces ,mine will track but only if the road is worn generally its good.
jim

 

[Julian]

Making sure you dial any play out of steering couplers, joints and rack & pinion is critical in my experience. Mine is a wide body with 10" front wheels and it will tram line all and every crack in the road.

 

[John Cohen]

Julian m8 that information is music to my eyes .. So mine isnt the odd one out .. i did put a bit more toe out yesterday . And driving today did feel alot better... Thank you all for your answers ..

 

[Frank Catt]

START by setting with KPI , then caster, then camber, then Ackermann, then toe, all after you have set your ride heights, in that order. KPI is a design decision, possibly not adjustable after build, but is the first and most important angle to consider and get right.

 

First set ride heights to spec and check the wheelbase is the same both sides! I use the simple rectangle method with fine fishing line set out very carefully around the car and measure off that with a steel rule to the wheels. I use a gauge for camber angle and KPI. Seems to work very well at the level I operate at. I reckon it’s quite accurate enough for road use and I’ve seen plenty of top race teams do it this way. Cheers Roger