Shift linkage for the 016 or 083 boxes

Terry Oxandale

Skinny Man
I've searched a lot of strings looking for photos of the shift linkage used on 016 or 083 transaxles (rear drive Porsche version - 924, etc) and have not found an answer to my question, which is:
Being the shift-linkage extends forward toward the bellhousing hole, what is being done to allow this to work if the transaxle is mounted directly to the motor (can no longer go through the bellhousing forward). My first thoughts were to extend the shiftrod laterally by several inches as it exits the case, which allows the linkage to be space further away from the box, thus allowing it to go around the block, but this still makes it a bit awkward to re-align it with a shifter set in-between the seats.
 
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Hi Terry,

If you want rods then use bellcranks, but they come with a lot of play since you'll need to use a few.

Push-pull cables are much easier, plans so you could make it yourself for a 016 and 01e (maybe 01x): Audi Shifter - Lambo Lounge

I'm going on the push-pull cable setup myself to, rods are to much of a pain.

Greetz,

Bram Boekestein
Holland
 

Terry Oxandale

Skinny Man
Bram, thanks for the link. After studying the photos and drawings, it is easy to see how a cable system would work on "tension" or pull, but will a cable provide the necessary rididity for push? I would assume so if this is a viable alternative.
 
Hey guys,
If you decide to do a search, try marine cables or better Morse cables. Be sure to only look at the 43B or BC(can't remember which). These are the bulkhead type which use very sturdy nuts to hold in place. Just like the ones in the link. It requires you to build a bracket from which the resistance to the push pull takes place. Much better than the 43C types, which have a smaller threaded end and are secured by hold down clamps which can slip. The only care you have to take is to get the length right. One may be too short and the next too long. You have to decide whether to add an extension or some place for the extra length to go. I too wanted to use a rod for my 930, but alas the areas were too tight to do it justice. Now there are ways to use a rod shifter on a single shaft shifter like the 930. It requires a sort of swing bar that the rod pushes and pulls for the in out motion. Then a link from the rod to the shaft for the rotation. The attached photo will help if you can figure them out. They use two rods, but it is easily mde from one. I have two rear coolers in place and there just isn't any room for the swing arm. So I am going with the cables as well. When I get further along I will post the setup under the appropriate heading. It requires a triangulated piece for the rotation.

Bill
 

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Hi BIll, where did you get the photo's of that black chassis with the LS engine?

I would be interested in seeing more photo's of the chassis construction. Do you have a link or extra pictures?

Regards,
Mudgey
 
Mudgey,
I have a habbit of saving pics of ideas that I am considering for use with my build. Some are good others not. The subtitle with the two photos are "John Evans". If it is who I think it is it is a fellow I contacted about building a shifter for my car DRB#5 here in the Atlanta area. His rates were a little high for me, but he has lots of experience with rear engined/mid engined trans adaptaions. After he sent me the pics, I tried to emulate them, but I have rear coolers on my car and there isn't a way to get to the tail shaft of my 930 without building a weird variation with many angles in it. Not to mention there was no way to use those techniques and have rotational action for the neutral gate. So I am building a variation of a cable setup based on what some of the others on the forum have used. Will be posting those pics when I get further along. My shifter cost me less than $20 compared to $500+ for someone else to make it. Just got my daughter married, so now I have some funds(and time) to continue the build.

Bill
 
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