Shift Rod Material
- Thread starter Eric
- Start date
I am not in the genius category but for what its worth everyone I know here has used 5/8" or 16mm stainless. I have tried 1/2" which I believe is OK for some sections but not man enough if applying forces laterally.
I see you are also living with mixed measurement systems! Feet and mm. I can't help thinking in feet and inches but now most things are in mm and newtons (whatever they might be /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif )
I see you are also living with mixed measurement systems! Feet and mm. I can't help thinking in feet and inches but now most things are in mm and newtons (whatever they might be /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif )
David Morton
Lifetime Supporter
Just about any conversion factor under the sun:
http://www.processassociates.com/process/convert/cf_all.htm
http://www.processassociates.com/process/convert/cf_all.htm
304 grade st/st will be OK but if you require improved corrosion resistance then 316L is best. This is an extra low carbon steel which has exellent properties for welding & machining.
Paul Thompson 'Hooligan'
Admin
What about using a hollow tube? (nice and light) or better still, get some carbon fibre kite poles (also hollow) and machine alloy ferrules for the joints. V-light/too-light...???
Just a thought....
Just a thought....
Eric
I would suggest some 400 series stainless for that shaft. Buy it in a normal state and do all of your machining and send it out for tempering. I am assuming you will need some type of counterbore or flat surface to grab your linkage, and while it is possible to cut when hard, you will need something like carbide tooling or grinding to cut it. I am assuming there is a seal at the exit point on the gearbox, and a nice smooth finish will insure a good seal, and good seal life. 16 MM (.6299) is a fairly common size. Also this type of stainless will be magnetic because of the nature of the alloy, but has good corrosion qualities. Another choice is chrome alloy rod (commonly used for hydraulic cylinders), this material is very strong, and workable, but will not have the corrosion resistance you may require. I think while 304, and 316 have the highest corrosion resistance, they may be too soft for this application.
Good Luck
Phil
I would suggest some 400 series stainless for that shaft. Buy it in a normal state and do all of your machining and send it out for tempering. I am assuming you will need some type of counterbore or flat surface to grab your linkage, and while it is possible to cut when hard, you will need something like carbide tooling or grinding to cut it. I am assuming there is a seal at the exit point on the gearbox, and a nice smooth finish will insure a good seal, and good seal life. 16 MM (.6299) is a fairly common size. Also this type of stainless will be magnetic because of the nature of the alloy, but has good corrosion qualities. Another choice is chrome alloy rod (commonly used for hydraulic cylinders), this material is very strong, and workable, but will not have the corrosion resistance you may require. I think while 304, and 316 have the highest corrosion resistance, they may be too soft for this application.
Good Luck
Phil
Hi Paul
Another kite flyer??
I'm been in China for the past two years and kites are still very popular. Quite common to see 200 in the air in city parks. They better ones do use quite fancy carbon fibre poles, tapered to the end.
Sorry to Eric for changing the thread!!
Regards
Dave Tickle
Another kite flyer??
I'm been in China for the past two years and kites are still very popular. Quite common to see 200 in the air in city parks. They better ones do use quite fancy carbon fibre poles, tapered to the end.
Sorry to Eric for changing the thread!!
Regards
Dave Tickle
Thanks for all the replies.
Dave, If I am doing a rough, unimportant measurement I always use inches but I really like MM as they are easy to read in small increments as opposed to having to count the lines on the tapemeasure to see if I am in 8ths, 16ths, 32nds etc. NM on the other hand, are a different language. I want 16 mm because that is what the stock porsche shift rods are. I am using the stock porsche shift seal as well as the little bearings that the shifter rides on in order to keep things simple when later in life someone needs to order replacements. They are solid also so I figure there must be a reason, so I ditched the hollow idea myself awhile ago, plus, it would leak.
Corrosion resistance is pretty low on the importance list as 90% of it is inside the tranny. Hardness and smootheness are top as it does have a seal on it. I didnt even think of chomeolly rod.
Dave, If I am doing a rough, unimportant measurement I always use inches but I really like MM as they are easy to read in small increments as opposed to having to count the lines on the tapemeasure to see if I am in 8ths, 16ths, 32nds etc. NM on the other hand, are a different language. I want 16 mm because that is what the stock porsche shift rods are. I am using the stock porsche shift seal as well as the little bearings that the shifter rides on in order to keep things simple when later in life someone needs to order replacements. They are solid also so I figure there must be a reason, so I ditched the hollow idea myself awhile ago, plus, it would leak.
Corrosion resistance is pretty low on the importance list as 90% of it is inside the tranny. Hardness and smootheness are top as it does have a seal on it. I didnt even think of chomeolly rod.
How about O1 drill rod ? Machines nicely, polishes up real nice & purty, and can be hardened. Though not officially a stainless steel, it still is pretty corrosion resistant. And you can get it in pre-ground metric sizes.
[ QUOTE ]
V-light/too-light...???
[/ QUOTE ]
Don't get too carried away with the quest for lightness in this area. Years ago I built a two litre twincam rear engined sports racer and went overboard on the lightness theme. It worked because I held lap records with it at most tracks in this country at the time but the cost was numerous bent valves caused by major over-revs upon missing upward gearshifts due to linkage flex./ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif So be warned. Although that wouldn't happen now with rev limitters being readily available. Life's just so easy these days /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Regards
V-light/too-light...???
[/ QUOTE ]
Don't get too carried away with the quest for lightness in this area. Years ago I built a two litre twincam rear engined sports racer and went overboard on the lightness theme. It worked because I held lap records with it at most tracks in this country at the time but the cost was numerous bent valves caused by major over-revs upon missing upward gearshifts due to linkage flex./ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif So be warned. Although that wouldn't happen now with rev limitters being readily available. Life's just so easy these days /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Regards
OK, I'm going to take back my statement about O1 being corrosion resistant, as I just took a look at some little clips I made up a few months ago. They got wet. They are rusted. So keep a light coat of oil on it...
Hi Eric,
The CAV shifter uses a metric shaft that approximates 5/8". When we upgrade the shifter by lopping of the rubber bushes and supporting the whole deal on spherical bearings (or Teflon blocks on the RHD version) we connect the sections with Borgeson U-Joints and .750dia .125 wall chrome moly tube. Strong, light, welds easily and very strong.
It's always desireable to keep weight to a minimum but know where to leave the weight in. Light, wimpy shift rods are not going to work well and the added mass of rods/joints we use actually reduces vibration and makes it easier to engage the next gear, up or down.
The ZF uses a single rod, what's your linkage setup look like?
My 2c worth, cheers
The CAV shifter uses a metric shaft that approximates 5/8". When we upgrade the shifter by lopping of the rubber bushes and supporting the whole deal on spherical bearings (or Teflon blocks on the RHD version) we connect the sections with Borgeson U-Joints and .750dia .125 wall chrome moly tube. Strong, light, welds easily and very strong.
It's always desireable to keep weight to a minimum but know where to leave the weight in. Light, wimpy shift rods are not going to work well and the added mass of rods/joints we use actually reduces vibration and makes it easier to engage the next gear, up or down.
The ZF uses a single rod, what's your linkage setup look like?
My 2c worth, cheers
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