If the glass gets broken, how do you fit new glass into the channels once the channels are moulded in? I was thinking it may be worthwhile to bolt in the channel frame using small brackets, such that the frame and glass can be removed later. Just my 2c worth.
The window slides in from the top (at an angle) as the front edge is rather short and thus channels can be fixed. The glass has a ali track mounted to the bottom for the mechanism and thus the slot at the top is some 30mm, just over and inch wide. The weather strip will be mounted on an ali plate that will be mounted after installation.
The problem is more getting the electric mechanism in. The solution is keeping the front edge of the door, that is where the original door mounts were, accessible. Will make a decent cover as all slides in from the front. The window rubbers are from a VW Polo (Golf) and seat well into the channels.
We are waiting for the structual silicone to cure before we test it with the glass and the mechanism. Once all the channels have been aligned, checked and double checked, it will be down to the fixing and moulding of the channels.
As fate always plays a part, the mounts under the door, used to locate the door and the magnetic lock with the gullwing opration, need to be relocated, not a big hassle, but as always an interesting jigsaw puzzle.
Did a little schetch for you since I build so many doors in a past life. Graham I and I discused this power windows in the past and are following your posts. I hope it helps you out. If you need any help PM me.
As with all things new, hit some challenges with the side window mechanism. As the glass is at a rather acute curve angle, radius of 545 mm, the scissor arms moving up and down has a lateral movement of some 20 mm. The problem is that the scissor arms then start binding against the horizontal channel mounted on the glass.
You are too ridged with the glass. Too much run solid U-channel on top. The glass has to float in the guides. With the softer bailey at the top it gives some play in the glass. You could also change the nylon wheels on the scissor regulator to spherical joints so the glass floats in the guides with no binding at the curve. You could shorten the U- channel in the front below the sill by 4" at the bottom and the rear can be 5" total down from the top of the sill.
Thanks, played around with the channels last night, with the glass curved and the two vertical sides also running at an angle, I got down to basics and made sure the long channel (rear) slides smoothly, next was the top channel, that it does not bind and seats easily. Keep in mind, that channels can also "twist" so had an interesting puzzle going.
The third channel, front one, this was the original problem, as the front glass section is only about 6" long, it was not parallel to the rear one and slightly twisted. Some cutting, filing and it now really slides easily.
Will finish then spherical joints this evening and then the test... holding thumbs. The last channel, being between the front and top, the one the same angle as the windscreen, will be done once all is working.
On the spherical joints, I am also making "floating pins" into some vesconite as the curve means that these pins must be able to move about 1". I will take some pic's and would appreciate your comments.
Progress is being made and most of the body shaping around the window has been done. A challenge was to find a product to bind the ali and the fibreglass. Normal body putty does not bind to the ali as such.
Found a U-Pol product SMC which binds to both materials. The channels are screwed onto the door but needed SMC to shape the channels to the door. The VW Polo window rubbers work perfectly, but a lot of detail body shaping required so that they seat perfectly.
We changed the left and right mechanism around so that the motor of the electric window mechanism is at the rear of the door and so the weight distribution is closer to the actuators lifting point.
The guide pins and magnetic lock at the bottom of the door do not interfere with the glass at all and with the window down - opening at least 80% of the opening - I am very happy with the results.
To operate the windows (only when the door is closed) I will use door jab connectors which thus will only connect as the door is closed - same time it will also activate the magnetic lock to keep the door "locked".
Looked at the door last night and although I have cut the old hinge area off as it is not required with the gullwing project and thus an opnening to slide the mechanism in, it will be possible to do these curved sliding down glass windows in a standard door - only issue will be the door handle mechanism that will be in the way. However, one could leave a dummy handle and do the locks electronically?
Some progress being made. The glass fits great, slides perfectly, the electric motors are now mounted and the stop limits have been set.
Busy with the body moulding around the window area and the VW Old Polo rubbers work perfectly.
With the window shape I have this front triangle section in front of the glass, can be seen on pictures, and my thought is to mount the side mirrors there. So that is my next search, but there are many threads on this and will be looking at best option.
The pictures are not the best as they do not show with the botom rubber scraper installed, but does give you an idea.
Now as the side is glass... any one out there that can help me with a rear glass window? If not, the guys who curved my side windows will be able to help, but I now need to determine the curve radius of the back which should be interesting.
Rear windows are available in the UK
I know Frank Catt (Wealden Engineerig) has the where with all to supply and likewise I believe Tornado offer them too.
Great work you have done on those windows - pity you had to make it a gull wing type door to do it. I wonder how it would work cut down to retain the standard door handles and have one stationary piece at the back and then the main piece move?
The windows can be done without the gullwing conversion:laugh:. I am sure that with some delicate planning the original door handles could stay, but my suggestion would be to go electronic on the doors, the handle can then stay with a micro switch to operate?
I will measure sometime but there must be about 15-20mm between the door and the glass... not much.
Thanks, Tornado did confirm that they have glass in 1045mm x 570mmm but mine is 1045mm x 660mm. So I will make a template and determine the radius of the curve and have it done locally by the guys who did the side windows.