Southern GT #70

Davidmgbv8

Supporter
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So turns out drilling the dash harder than it seems, the larger tach and speedo holes are a touch too big in the US sizes. If you are a fraction off it shows. Running hole saw backwards is the key but it can still jump. Thought the key and fuel switch placement was total shite, especially as I have a dual switch that switches tanks, pumps/ return valves so placed it above key switch so no key fob is in the way.
 

Davidmgbv8

Supporter
Using a piece of Z bar from McMaster Carr,I maid a retainer for the top of the bulkhead window so it will stay pressed tight against the rollbar/bulkhead. Then trimmed offending glass on the inner rear clam panels so it will fully shut now. Clearanced around on header at the rear brake cooling tube, will glass that and putty to make it more presentable. Then on to the AC bracket.
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Davidmgbv8

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Had to clearance the air duct for the header. Then completely sever and reset the lower spyder drop legs as they had a weird set I couldn’t correct with heat and cooling. So mocked in place then some panel weld to hold. Today I will reinforce with glass.
 

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Davidmgbv8

Supporter
The SGT exhaust fouled the inner rear clam where the upper trailing arms come through. So had cut them out to get clam to shut. The trailing arms are also in a more outboard position so cut, and begin to paste with clearance. Need to order more panel bond to glue the last bits in but if should look tidy.
 

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Davidmgbv8

Supporter
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Sprayed with polyester filing primer today to fill all the pin holes. Hopefully last pass before top coat. Really thinking about flocking the top…any thoughts out there?
 
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