Southern GT #70

I think you just needed the 2287 mounts not the 2257, pretty sure I’m right in saying that the 2287 mounts are shorter and are the standard fit for SGT.
 

Davidmgbv8

Supporter
Morten and Mick said the BY2257 was the mount needed not the 2287. Anyhow I modified my mounts and we are in. The sad thing is since such time has passed and now Quaife' s are back available, I should have gone that direction and been patient. I would be near the same amount of money since I did not properly investigate the 365 transaxle I first bought vs the UN-1 I now have along with an ATB and one piece main shaft kit.

I just wish I could drop the engine 30mm to get the air cleaner down lower, I really wanted the 4bbl out of sight. I will pull off the intake next and have it milled level to get 15mill lower.
 
Morten and Mick said the BY2257 was the mount needed not the 2287. Anyhow I modified my mounts and we are in. The sad thing is since such time has passed and now Quaife' s are back available, I should have gone that direction and been patient. I would be near the same amount of money since I did not properly investigate the 365 transaxle I first bought vs the UN-1 I now have along with an ATB and one piece main shaft kit.

I just wish I could drop the engine 30mm to get the air cleaner down lower, I really wanted the 4bbl out of sight. I will pull off the intake next and have it milled level to get 15mill lower.

Fair enough, but although going backwards you may still find it easier to rework the the solid mounts and use the shorter 2287’s.
I have a Holley 750 on a performer RPM Air gap intake with wedge plate and have no clearance issues, (not sure what you mean by out of sight though?)

You’re not the only one i know of to have made this mistake, one digit out on the part number makes a huge difference when it comes getting the engine in.

Not sure the ZFQ option would have been an easy change though, as that requires some significant changes to the rear of the chassis if it’s been built/ ordered for a UN-1.


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Whatever you want to archive with carb wedge plates, carbs needs to sit level. Holley (2 fuel bowls) or quad Webers (four fuel bowls), it needs to sit level. There's no compromise.
Angle gauges are cheap and a big help.
 

Davidmgbv8

Supporter
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Currently level with Holley Sniper EFI but the wedge plate adds a lot. Will be removing intake to have it milled flat to drop the carb approximately 15mm
 

Mike Pass

Supporter
Your air cleaner sticks up above the carb a long way. Why not just get a drop base air cleaner. That will give you about 2". I have one on my 40. I will take a pic tomorrow. There is also an interesting video on Youtube about milling the central divider on Edelbrock inlet manifolds to make the normal manifold behave like the Air gap one.
Cheers
Mike
 
Your air cleaner sticks up above the carb a long way. Why not just get a drop base air cleaner. That will give you about 2". I have one on my 40. I will take a pic tomorrow. There is also an interesting video on Youtube about milling the central divider on Edelbrock inlet manifolds to make the normal manifold behave like the Air gap one.
Cheers
Mike
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Mike Pass

Supporter
Here are some pics of my drop base air filter. This drops the outside of the filter housing. It could be dropped even lower by cutting the centre ring depending on the carb top. I don't need to do this on my GTD.
The intake manifold video seems to have vanished but here is a version of it. They cut the same section of the dual plane divider from the standard RPM intake as the Air Gap has. Some people cut more or all of it. I left mine uncut but I used an open wedge plate instead.
 

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Davidmgbv8

Supporter
I milled the center divider already when we built the engine last year. While I noticed the tilt of the carb mounting face I did not ask the question
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David, their is not enough material in to the manifold , to rectifie the "slope", only way would be well the wedge plate on the manifold and then milling flat...

my way of (dangerous) thinking
 

Davidmgbv8

Supporter
Fair enough, but although going backwards you may still find it easier to rework the the solid mounts and use the shorter 2287’s.
I have a Holley 750 on a performer RPM Air gap intake with wedge plate and have no clearance issues, (not sure what you mean by out of sight though?)

You’re not the only one i know of to have made this mistake, one digit out on the part number makes a huge difference when it comes getting the engine in.

Not sure the ZFQ option would have been an easy change though, as that requires some significant changes to the rear of the chassis if it’s been built/ ordered for a UN-1.


Thanks Paul the B2287 are the 65mm high mounts but since I have cut and fit the chassis brackets for the others, the engine is as low as possible I believe with the UN-1 transaxle
 

Davidmgbv8

Supporter
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Intake back from being milled level, now dropping the dividing wall down further and checking intake port matching
 
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Davidmgbv8

Supporter
Chopped down the intake divider, smoothed the plenum and runners. Do not know why I did not do that step while I was awaiting the engine to be done but it is done now!
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Davidmgbv8

Supporter
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6 more hours of intake runner shaping and smoothing. The worst runners were the ones at the front and back by the water passages. I got this manifold as it had a back water crossover with lots Of npt ports, but a lot of labor and beer to make it right
 
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