Widebody RCR40

Brian Kissel

Lifetime Supporter
Dart heads are noted for core shift. Most of the Dart heads you see at swap meets are seconds. This certainly doesn’t guarantee that the ones you buy at the big stores or your engine builder will be good. I have sold a ton of Dart heads in the past and have run into it MANY times. That’s why they have a parts only warranty. The likelihood of a “accidental offset” is virtually zero. I have been dealing with them since 1987. I do still like their heads however.
Your results may vary

Regards Brian
 
Dart heads are noted for core shift. Most of the Dart heads you see at swap meets are seconds. This certainly doesn’t guarantee that the ones you buy at the big stores or your engine builder will be good. I have sold a ton of Dart heads in the past and have run into it MANY times. That’s why they have a parts only warranty. The likelihood of a “accidental offset” is virtually zero. I have been dealing with them since 1987. I do still like their heads however.
Your results may vary

Regards Brian
Yeah, was pretty certain of core shift in the coolant passages that was cut into when they hogged out the ports for the 225 CNC. What a waste of money using their product. Was $1880 in labor and parts and they are willing to cover $95. If I build an engine again from untested parts I won't use Dart. They certainly aren't cheap heads at $1500 each in standard trim.
 

Brian Kissel

Lifetime Supporter
Adam, just glad that you found out now instead of when you were out on a trip somewhere. I had a customer once that had about 200 miles on his engine before they started to leak. They were machined paper thin, but didn’t leak on start up.
Good luck with your next set, whatever you decide to put on it.

Regards Brian
 
Moving along to the final phase of the project. Car is now almost completely apart and I'm tying up some loose ends before paint and reassembly. As I'm disassembling (and making the car exponentially larger) a good paint strategy is becoming necessary. I'm planning on shooting the chassis first. Followed by rockers, spider, doors, subframes and secondary panels. I'd then get the car back together and wired/running. Set that aside and spray the front and rear clamshells. I'm working out of a 20X30 building so things are TIGHT.

The engine was finally brought to life and tuned. A few other issues from the Borla 8 stack. They didn't drill the fuel crossover fittings from left to right bank. and the pin outs on the idle air weren't correct but after that was rectified the engine made 575 hp and 490 something ft-lbs at 6500 RPM. Engine started to break up at 6800 RPM which was suspected as valve float. For a 363 built on a 4.125 bore Dart 302 I was happy. Wanted something to rev to 7k but DON'T need any more power.

Lastly, I was working on my pedals and couldn't find a lot of info on how people finished them off. Specifically, master cylinders, throttle cable, fittings, etc.

- Front brake master, .625 Tilton 76 series
- Rear brake master , .700 Tilton 76 series
- Clutch, .625 Tilton 76 series
- throttle cable- Lokar LOK-TC-1000U96 96" cable
- Wilwood -3 AN to 3/8-24 steel adapters. Don't get the Tilton ones they don't have the flange width to seal the crush seal.
- -4 AN to -4 AN unions plus crush washers

Some things to be noted about putting the stuff together. The area where the Lokar clevis attaches to the pedal needs to be a narrowed to .185 (ish) from the .250. Also, the top mount hole needs to be enlarged to .313.
 

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Need some help. Bought a Kennedy flywheel and stage 2 clutch and upon assembling it to the engine I found the flywheel contacts the RCR adapter plate. It seems to have about a .020 interference. I imagine the Kennedy adapter is thinner allowing the trans to sit closer to the engine. I ordered some flexplate spacers from JEGS to understand the spacing better. My theory is that because the adapter is thicker the flywheel should also be moved away from the engine accordingly. Either I move the flywheel out or things need to be remachined...

Anyone have a recommendation??????
 

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Found the issue. Kennedy machines a relief to clear the transmission's locating bead and that was not cut deep enough. I thought it was a Kennedy adapter plate vs RCR issue. The flywheel would have had the issue with their own adapter plates. So back it goes to Kennedy...
 
I've been busy for the last couple months, painting parts, assembling, and fighting the ever present questions of why I'm doing this. It's got pretty cold in Ohio so painting requires military like planning. Most of the paint I've been spraying has been SPI black epoxy, which like most is suited for 65+ deg. Very nice product as a durable chassis coating, much, much tougher than any top coat I've used. There was a last bit of mock up in placing the brake lines in the driver's foot well. The lines are designed for the right hand drive model but with some creativity can work for the left hand version. I hit everything with 80 grit and wiped it down with SPI's water based degreaser.

Before the weather changed in late Oct the goal was to spray the chassis, cage, many suspension parts, and some fiberglass paneling. I'm working out of a 2 1/2 car garage so it's a ballet of prepping parts, hanging drop clothes, moving things outside the garage to prevent overspray...etc. I originally planned to spray the chassis in halves (bottom then top) but after running the mental math I realized it would be better the spray it all with it placed on edge. I built some steel stands that grabbed the rocker panel lip and bolted to existing holes in the chassis. After shooting the epoxy I masked the chassis for Raptor liner. I sprayed that on the bottom, front wheel wells, and the rear (fuel tank) ends. I debated not doing the liner but figured in the end the 30ish oz's of weight is worth the added protection.

Once everything was sprayed (and this took a few rounds of tent building and spraying) I started on the assembly. One thing is certain, there is A LOT of random hardware to put this thing together. Strange lengths. Difficult to find configurations. All of that. Much was self inflicted due to the changes and additions I've made but none the less, a pain. Hats off to the people using large engines in this chassis. My 302 base is plenty big enough.


The last item I finished up last night was a carbon cover panel for the window in the adapter plate. I looked at the area and though it's be my luck to have something wedge up in there during a track day or something.
 

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