Widebody RCR40

In solving the latch and striker install, I didn't have a lot of confidence the 1/8 thick firewall was going to provide good stability. Others have tied the striker back to the cage. I wanted mine to be removable just in case.
IMG_1537.JPG


Also, I pulled some flares off the molds I made. I took a stab at blending gulf blue even though it will be painted over.
IMG_1663.JPG
 
OK, new fenders are spliced in. Front of the car looks A LOT more muscular than it previously did. I don't think there is an alternative method to fit the widened gulf wheels with the Goodyear Bluestreak 6.00-15's on the RCR chassis. This fender flare should also accommodate the Hoosier DOT vintage tires in case I have to go that route.
IMG_1664.JPG
IMG_1671.JPG
 
Had some time off for the holidays. With that, I had plans to do considerable work to the 40. What really happened was a Honda mini bike project for my son turned ugly and became a full restoration. After finishing that I bit into the car some.

- Headlight mounting was done with a bonded piece of aluminum. I wanted a single piece to maintain the surface the light would be adjusted from.
- I wanted something to capture the ends of the coolant tubes. I made a clamp plate from stainless that screws to the tub. I'll do something similar in the back.
- There is an issue when using the quarter turn fasteners on the nostril. As far as I know there aren't dzus fasteners that have grip length long enough to grab the spring mounted under the lip of the clamshell. The fiberglass on the clamshell is pretty thick in some areas. The front edge is 7/16". I made a mount plate to bring the spring up the the same plane as the lip.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1765.JPG
    IMG_1765.JPG
    152.4 KB · Views: 860
  • IMG_1766.JPG
    IMG_1766.JPG
    146.9 KB · Views: 1,086
  • IMG_1767.JPG
    IMG_1767.JPG
    144.1 KB · Views: 969
  • IMG_1768.JPG
    IMG_1768.JPG
    223.1 KB · Views: 977
  • IMG_1769.JPG
    IMG_1769.JPG
    125.7 KB · Views: 993
Seat mounting was next on the list. I wanted the rear to fold forward in the event I needed to pull the engine access panel. I added a second cross bar in the cage. This will be used to anchor the shoulder belts. I added some mounting tabs that have rubber bumpers and a feature for some 1/4" Jergens pins. There is a corresponding aluminum brackets on the seat back that are used to affix to the mount brackets.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1680.JPG
    IMG_1680.JPG
    166.3 KB · Views: 962
  • IMG_1681.JPG
    IMG_1681.JPG
    121.8 KB · Views: 853
  • IMG_1678.JPG
    IMG_1678.JPG
    148.1 KB · Views: 837
Looks great Adam, you have inspired me to get back on mine. Where did you source your sway bars from? I like the bearing mounts that you have used on the rear.
Thanks
Dennis
 
Looks great Adam, you have inspired me to get back on mine. Where did you source your sway bars from? I like the bearing mounts that you have used on the rear.
Thanks
Dennis

The sway bars are standard speedway engineering parts. I wanted to keep them as off the shelf. Calculation for rates was done on an excel doc that I got from this forum somewhere. I think it was from tom’s build. The mounts I sourced from the nascar guys in NC. They were parts I picked up at a swap meet at the speedway there. Many of the parts on my car are sourced used or new from the nascar/circle track/ and road race community. Try to keep the costs in check and I really like the adventure. My basement is filled with stuff.
 
Some more progress mounting lights. I used the same housings used here http://www.gt40supercharged.com/gt40supercharged.html. It wasn't explained how the housings were mounted to the body. I made some stainless rings that mounted to the housing and used that to tie to some aluminum pieces and 10-32 studs that were bonded to the driving light area of the body.

Another thing I wanted to add were closeout panels that better sealed the front subframe to the chassis and lower aluminum plate. I welded a bunch of steel panels in some form of quiltwork to create a mold for them to be made from fiberglass. I still need to fill and smooth the panels but you get the idea.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1774.JPG
    IMG_1774.JPG
    161.3 KB · Views: 911
  • IMG_1775.JPG
    IMG_1775.JPG
    135.8 KB · Views: 856
  • IMG_1776.JPG
    IMG_1776.JPG
    179.7 KB · Views: 875
  • IMG_1779.JPG
    IMG_1779.JPG
    186.7 KB · Views: 891
  • IMG_1780.JPG
    IMG_1780.JPG
    177.1 KB · Views: 895
Another thing I wanted to do was wire the car using breakers instead of a fuse box. I picked up some vintage NOS Lockheed Martin breakers made in '59-'60. I'm going to add these to a panel that bridged from where the center console goes under the dash to the bottom of the dash itself.
 

Attachments

  • Breakers.jpg
    Breakers.jpg
    192.8 KB · Views: 925

Neil

Supporter
Adam;

Those are standard aircraft circuit breakers that have been used by the millions. Very reliable units. I had planned on using those same breakers but I stumbled on these combination toggle switch & circuit breakers and decided to use them instead.
 

Attachments

  • Switch Panel- Rear.jpg
    Switch Panel- Rear.jpg
    133.3 KB · Views: 945
  • Switch Panel- Front.jpg
    Switch Panel- Front.jpg
    87.5 KB · Views: 935
  • Switch Panel Legends.jpg
    Switch Panel Legends.jpg
    89.8 KB · Views: 907
I wanted to add front inner fender liners. Usually these are aluminum and have secondary bolt on bake ducts. I wanted to make all of this as one.
-Make molds from sheetmetal
- Mold the inner panels in fiberglass
- incorporate brake ducts that tie from inner front clamshell to flexible hoses going to spindles
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1779.JPG
    IMG_1779.JPG
    186.7 KB · Views: 870
  • IMG_1780.JPG
    IMG_1780.JPG
    177.1 KB · Views: 756
  • IMG_1795.JPG
    IMG_1795.JPG
    156 KB · Views: 829
  • IMG_1799.JPG
    IMG_1799.JPG
    188.6 KB · Views: 779
  • IMG_1800.JPG
    IMG_1800.JPG
    169.7 KB · Views: 756
  • IMG_1806.JPG
    IMG_1806.JPG
    192.7 KB · Views: 725
  • IMG_1807.JPG
    IMG_1807.JPG
    213.2 KB · Views: 755
  • IMG_1808.JPG
    IMG_1808.JPG
    370.2 KB · Views: 770
Engine work is under way. I have Hutter Racing Engines in Chardon, Oh working on swapping some parts, installing the 8 stack and getting the engine up and running. I bought the engine built already. Never run, but built. It needed the pistons swapped to high compression from the turbo 9.0:1 CP's that were in there. It's a Dart block 363 with Callies rotating assembly.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1792.JPG
    IMG_1792.JPG
    206.5 KB · Views: 761
  • IMG_1793.JPG
    IMG_1793.JPG
    170.7 KB · Views: 879
I'm on the path to wrapping up the mock up phase. I'm a fan of getting as reasonably close to 100% complete before breaking the car down for paint and final assembly.

Mounting battery- I made a stainless and aluminum battery box to mount in the passenger footwell. I used an odyssey PC925 battery
Windshield wiper- RCR shipped a wiper motor with a shaft that was too short (1") to reach through the dash pan up through the spider. I had to buy another wiper motor with a 2" shaft.
Fresh air vents- I stripped out some Holley throttle bodies from a Chrysler V6 that were 2" diameter and linked them up to some pull cables. They move really smoothly and seal well once closed.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1823.JPG
    IMG_1823.JPG
    206.3 KB · Views: 600
  • IMG_1826.JPG
    IMG_1826.JPG
    154.8 KB · Views: 617
  • IMG_1830.JPG
    IMG_1830.JPG
    195.8 KB · Views: 656
  • IMG_1832.JPG
    IMG_1832.JPG
    168.5 KB · Views: 613
  • IMG_1835.JPG
    IMG_1835.JPG
    152.2 KB · Views: 683
Once again, I'm a big fan of a more complete mock up before starting the final build. So I wanted to finish the interior paneling and will therefore better understand wire routing and the circuit diagrams. I made 2 more molds for a center console over the parking brake and a drop area under the dash for the circuit breakers, passenger fresh air vent control, and maybe the A/C controls.

Also, it's been a long journey but the engine is getting together. Should be in the dyno room in the next few weeks.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1911.JPG
    IMG_1911.JPG
    137.8 KB · Views: 625
  • IMG_1913.JPG
    IMG_1913.JPG
    184.7 KB · Views: 567
  • IMG_1916.JPG
    IMG_1916.JPG
    227.9 KB · Views: 668
  • IMG_1908.JPG
    IMG_1908.JPG
    191.6 KB · Views: 707
Some updates.
- Got the aircraft breakers and HVAC controls mounted in the panel under the dash. The spacing worked out well and I got 12 circuits, 4 hvac knobs and the fresh air vent pull for the passenger side in there.
- The brake bias control bracket was more work than it looks as that area of the dash is curved and the bracket flat. Needed some fiberglass work and carving to get it all flat.
- Engine is built up and sitting on the dyno. Numbers to follow
- I wanted some old school looking door checks. There wasn't anything out there that mounted how I prefer or were long enough to allow the door to fully open. I made the keeper plates from stainless and cut up a walmart thick leather belt to make them.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1939.JPG
    IMG_1939.JPG
    207.1 KB · Views: 599
  • IMG_1940.JPG
    IMG_1940.JPG
    161.1 KB · Views: 624
  • IMG_1943.JPG
    IMG_1943.JPG
    233.7 KB · Views: 554
  • IMG_1951.JPG
    IMG_1951.JPG
    155.9 KB · Views: 651
I've been moving along and getting dangerously close to breaking the car down in preparation for paint and final build. I had an issue at the engine builder with the Dart Pro 225 CNC heads on the engine. There must have been a core shift when they made one (or both) of the heads that when water pressure was put on the heads leaked. The worst leak was a small fountain that was shooting into the #4 exhaust port. They machined through the wall of the casting when the CNC port job was done. Dart offered to pay none, ZERO, of the labor to break the engine back down and rebuild with another set of heads. I thought that an issue like this would be embarrassing enough for them to cover -at least- a good portion. They are holding to their standard warranty claim of parts but no labor or liable costs.

Anyway...

- vacuum bagged some carbon canards. Might paint them body color to look a little more period correct
- Made up some mounts for the front sway bars. Used some 3/8" stainless
- Wanted to have the rear body prop up and hold in place in a more positive way than a cable. Was thinking a stiff wind could slam it shut and destroy lots of stuff and make me question living any longer. I made some mounts off the sway bar bearings and bonded in aluminum mounts in the body to receive the prop rods
- Made some closeout panels for the rear lower radius rod holes. I think I'll add some kind of boot or brush gasket in the future.
- I didn't like that the ends of the rockers were open. I cut up some leftover glass from the body to close those areas up
- Added a carbon stiffening strip to the inner rear fender area
- RCR provided closeout panels for the front of the fuel tanks. I wanted a little more coverage so made another set from .080 aluminum. I also added the front fender winglets like the later Mk1 cars had. I hope it will prevent a little of the road debris from going up the side of the car.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2035.JPG
    IMG_2035.JPG
    426.1 KB · Views: 470
  • IMG_2096.JPG
    IMG_2096.JPG
    391.3 KB · Views: 504
  • IMG_2086.JPG
    IMG_2086.JPG
    371.2 KB · Views: 538
  • IMG_2087.JPG
    IMG_2087.JPG
    356 KB · Views: 448
  • IMG_2092.JPG
    IMG_2092.JPG
    323.5 KB · Views: 507
  • IMG_2093.JPG
    IMG_2093.JPG
    352.7 KB · Views: 487
  • IMG_2094.JPG
    IMG_2094.JPG
    358.4 KB · Views: 512
  • IMG_2095.JPG
    IMG_2095.JPG
    257.5 KB · Views: 445

Neil

Supporter
Adam, it could have been an accidental offset from a reference point. CNC uses a reference point for all machining coordinates.
 
Back
Top