Wilwood master cylinder fittings....

[Alex]

I'm trying to figure out which end of the fitting goes into the master cylinder.

It has 2 ends - one pointy, one not. Both ends thread into the m/c end, and both ends thread into the braided brake hoses. Not helpful, lol!

Also, do you always make certain to use the crush washer between the end of the master cylinder and the fitting when installing the fitting? Or is the copper crush washer meant for elsewheres?

 

[Alex]

Btw, are you guys running the clutch lines for Ricardo on the driver side or the passenger side?

The reason I ask is because in old pictures I find in build logs, they're always on the driver side (but my Ricardo has the connection on the passenger side, so I'm wondering if it crosses over somewhere .... just seems easier to run it on the pass. side.....)

 

[Jac Mac]

Flat end with copper washer goes into master cyl, 'pointy' end is for brake/clutch line with concave double flare or matching fitting in your braided lines

 

[Alex]

Gotcha - thanks - I had a feeling that was the setup, but wasn't entirely certain.

Btw, for the adapter pieces that thread into the blue brake residual valves (they have a similar threading as the above picture - i.e., flat, not pointy) do you use any thread sealent? I didn't think so, but when I removed the pieces that were initially installed into them one of them had some white sealent on it (from the factory), the other did not. So I'm not really certain.

 

[Jac Mac]

The residual pressure valve threads are 1/8-27 NPT & have a slight taper on the thread IIRC so since the interference of the tapered thread creats the seal you WILL require a very small amount of thread sealant as per the factory to ensure no leaks at those points-only apply on the threads of the fitting though, you dont want any to get into the RPV...

 

[Alex]

I think you're right about it being 1/8-27npt.

Although it's weird - one of them came with a fitting gently screwed in with teflon paste on it, one of them came with the fitting he-man'd in (even i had trouble getting it out, lol) and nothing. Weird


Btw, while we're talking about the residual valves, did you use teflon tape/paste on both ends? One end is the 1/8-27 npt fitting (that you connect the braided brake line hose to the other end), the other is a 'gigantic' black ?flare? nut that's been installed on the hardline.

I've never heard of an npt nut being installed on hardline, but what do I know, lol.

 

[Jac Mac]

I think you're right about it being 1/8-27npt.

Although it's weird - one of them came with a fitting gently screwed in with teflon paste on it, one of them came with the fitting he-man'd in (even i had trouble getting it out, lol) and nothing. Weird


Btw, while we're talking about the residual valves, did you use teflon tape/paste on both ends? One end is the 1/8-27 npt fitting (that you connect the braided brake line hose to the other end), the other is a 'gigantic' black ?flare? nut that's been installed on the hardline.

I've never heard of an npt nut being installed on hardline, but what do I know, lol.

Only use paste in this application & only apply it to the npt thread of the fitting--do not apply to the female npt thread in the RPV--- this way when you install the fitting no sealant will be pushed into the RPV.... The flare nut doesnt require any sealant, the seal is metal to metal @ the 'pointy' bit ... the only way that can leak is if the ' pointy ' bits get damaged from rough handling ..
The only time your likely to see a nut used on an npt fitting is where they incorporate an 'O-Ring on for some special applications... The trans cooler tubes of Ford C4/C6 Autos is one type I can think of, in those the 'nut' acts as both locknut & also has a groove to constrain the O-Ring..

 

[Alex]

Time for another thread bump and another (semi-related question)

For the inlinetube bulkhead fittings, are you guys able to pull the hardline back and forth after you've tightened the hardline flare nut down?

What i mean by this, is if you take a brake union (for example), install hardline into it, it's solid - it's sealed on the flare.

However, install the flare nut into the supplied bulkhead, tighten it down, and I'm able to pull the hardline back and forth about 1/2'' or so? I look down into the adapter fitting and there doesn't appear to be a flare, and there appears to be 2x the amount of threads one normally finds on brake line fittings (although it does appear that half-way down the threads taper, but that could be my imagination).

I'm going to call tomorrow and ask them, but this seems like a really questionable idea (flare not seated against anything..........)

 

[Jac Mac]

If there is no seat in the bulkhead fitting for the flare on the hard line to seal against it needs an adaptor with one, or its the wrong bulkhead fitting....Dean Lampe had a similar issue IIRC with the brake lines on his GT40, but looking for that thread might be needle in haystack material

 

[Alex]

Yep, turns out I got all 6 NPT to -3an, not 3/16IF to -3an. Booooooo =(

You guys may want to double check your packages to make certain you got the right bulkheads - it totally slipped my attention, even after I tightened it, and the only reason I found it was because I had a short line (like 6'' or so) to my parking brake that was unsupported and I noticed I can pull him in/out

 

[Alex]

Okay, mystery question #2

On the residual valves, one end is 1/8-27npt, any idea what the other end is? It's the one with the black nut.

This would be so much easier if they listed the sizes of the inlets/outlets on their website, haha!

 

[Cam]

If your brake setup is simlar to mine, that residual pressure valve will thread right into an elbow in the kit which threads into your in-line tubing flex line. I had a post in my build log: I got all the flex lines from fran and my residual pressure valves for the brakes. I copied what has been doen with the valves on the other SLC's but the MC arrow pointing toward the calipers, not the master cylinders. The fitting wouldn't work the opposite way, so i followed the other builds. To me it seemed backwards. You put them in becuase the masters are lower than the calipers so i'd think they are directional. Does it look like these are wrong to anyone?

i got a reply that was answered by someone in Australia who said they took apart the valve and pulled out the spring that operated the valve. he said it gave the brake pedal a spongy feel.

I hooked them up "as is". Maybe "MC" doesn't stand for Master Cylinder? I don't have brake fluid in the system yet to see if it's right. Lemme know what you find out....

 

[Alex]

Pretty sure MC does stand for master cylinder, can't think what else it could be.........

Although the black nut in your picture is the one giving me "trouble" - I'm trying to identify it because I don't know if I should use teflon tape on it or not.

It's some type of flared fitting for sure, so I don't think you teflon it - the other end obviously yes because it's 1-8/27 npt, but this one, don't think so but wanted to check.....

 

[Lynn Erickson]

the second blue 2 lbs. valve on the page says it comes with fitting adapter fittings for -3 inverted flare Wilwood High-Performance Disc Brakes - Master Cylinder Prop Valves

 

[Jack]

These residual valves are not Wilwood, come from inline tube...

 

[Alex]

Okay, double checked with them and the outlet on the residual valves do NOT use any type of teflon tape/paste/sealent/etc......, just the inlet is NPT.

 

[Jack]

Cool Alex! remember, the arrow on the residual valves point AWAY from the Master cyl's, in the direction of fluid flow.

 

[Alex]

An even easier way is MC = master cylinder end (but the net effect is the same, heh)