Windshield replacement?

Just wondering if anyone has had to go through windshield replacement? Is there anything a guy can do during his build to make things easier down the road? I'm in the process of fitting mine now and it seems a little snug, I'm at 1/8" or less between the edge of the glass and the frame. I noticed the Downforce guys have a crack in the windshield of their race car.
 

Morten

Mortified GT
Supporter
Cracked screens are a very common thing on these cars, especially fiberglass center section ones. Its just a screen, fill gap with the mastic and its sorted.
 

Randy Folsom

Supporter
This is my story so far regarding the windshield
Post in thread 'Randy's RCR40 MKI'
https://www.gt40s.com/threads/randys-rcr40-mki.57066/post-596312

Addition sanding notes:
  • Chips are the problem. It's really easy to pull off a chip that reaches 1/4".
  • Never let the glass get hot and constantly soften the edges. Keep switching sides.
  • I supported the windshield in a swivel chair and placed rubber mats underneath.
  • A belt sander reduces the likelihood of chips.
  • I only used the disks with grits of 120 or higher for beveling the edges. Anything more aggressive will surely cause chips.
  • When using a disc, make sure the disk surface is traveling parallel to the edge of the windshield, not perpendicular.
  • Keep a razor handy to cut the laminate. It will stick up between the layers of glass because it doesn't sand down as fast. It will eventually start catching the disk or belt which can be really scary.
If using RTV to fill the gap, then as long as there is a gap it will look like an original car. If using a rubber seal, then the gaps all need to be the same.

It’s easier to replace if installed with a rubber seal because it’s less likely to cause paint damage when replacing.

As noted above, fiberglass spiders don’t support the glass so those cars tend to have more windshields break.

I am going to fabricate steel braces that fasten to the dash deck and run up the A-pillars. 1/2” DOM welded to a piece of angle iron should work well. I figure it only needs to go up the A-pillars about halfway to prevent the flexing that breaks windshields.
 
"It’s easier to replace if installed with a rubber seal because it’s less likely to cause paint damage when replacing."
What kind of "rubber seal" are you talking about?
 
I have the GTD manual, but not the ERA...and Active Performance cars don't come with a manual. The GTD manual basically has 1 sentence explaining how to install the windshield...."Hire an expert glass fitter."
 

Randy Folsom

Supporter
This is the text from the ERA manual regarding the windshield installation. Presumably, ERA owners can download with some pictures.

1759300597921.jpeg

1759300643144.jpeg

1759300738637.jpeg
 

Randy Folsom

Supporter
"It’s easier to replace if installed with a rubber seal because it’s less likely to cause paint damage when replacing."
What kind of "rubber seal" are you talking about?
I am planning to use a T seal instead of filling the gap with Urethane. The bond is the back side of the glass on the spider flange. Filling the gap may add some strength, but not enough to make a difference. The T seal will reach out past the windshield recess by just a small bit and theoretically can be pulled off without damaging the paint. The downside of the T seal is that the gap must be narrow and uniform so more work is required to shape the windshield and the flange.

 

Randy Folsom

Supporter
I found a YouTube that shows Glazier installing a windshield in a fiberglass bodied kit car (the builder/owner is a bit annoying). I was able to find the primer and an adhesive, but no luck finding the butyl lined 'h' type seal. In any case, I don't think the Spider's flange is deep enough for an 'h' seal. I had no idea that superglue works on rubber o_O


5504GML10 Beta Prime Glass Primer

Loctite Super Glue Ultra Gel Control. Rubber-toughened for applications requiring high flexibility and works on a wide range of common materials including: leather, cork, paper, cardboard, wood, chipboard, fabric, metal, ceramic, rubber and hard plastics

3M 08609 Window-Weld Super Fast Urethane Windshield Adhesive

Notes to self:
  • Shaping the Spider to match the windshield
    • The spider must match the windshield before fitting the doors
      • When installing the spider, loose fit the windshield, and brace the spider to fit the windshield
      • The bracing should be installed such that if removed, it can be reinstalled and the spider still matches the windshield
      • The bracing should remain in place until the the car is painted and the windshield permanently installed
      • I am going to use the shifter housing as the bottom bracing support since it won't be moving and provides a consistent, solid surface
      • I will use tape to make a locator box on the spider for the top of the support.
    • I may use heat lamps (or the hot Texas sun) to soften the spider enough to stay put, at least for a couple of hours.
  • Installing the glass
    • Get help. Definitely easier with two people
    • Use plenty of tape and plastic sheeting to protect both the dash and the paint from wayward glue drops
    • Buy an extra tube of adhesive
    • Mock up a flange and windshield piece to determine the size of the glue bead for proper squeeze out
    • Practice running a glue bead
    • Wear gloves
    • Place a yoga mat in front of the window opening
    • Do a dry run
    • Have plenty of wet wipes ready
    • Do the math, it might be cost effective to hire a professional ;)
 
Stumbled upon this video. Check out how these guys sand down the edges of a window they just cut for a chop top. They just bust out the orbital sander and go to town. Not sure what grit they are using. Look at minute mark 25:51.
 
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