Wiring, Instrument Panel, Part V
A Dymo model 4200 wire labeler with heat shrink wire labels were used to mark each wire on both the chassis side and the panel side. This is a handy gadget which will make future tracing of wires much easier. When the panel is in place it will be an easy matter to just match up the wires labeled with identical descriptions. Quarter inch tubing was used on most of the wire with just a couple requiring 3/8”. The font was set at 8 point.
Each wire has a ring connector crimped in place. Heat shrink was used.
Flat labels were also made to mark the circuit breakers.
Braided wire sleeve is used in several locations. It has a vintage look and provides good chafe protection. A little tip: the braided wire sleeve material tends to fray at the ends. A soldering iron gently dabbed on the ends seals the material and keeps it intact.
The nuts on the screws that pass through and are on the engine side of the fire wall are metal lock nuts. Using Nyloc nuts in the engine compartment is typically not recommended. Frankly regular nuts would have been fine.
Several wires had to be directly joined. These connectors are sold under several brand names and are really cool. They are clear heat shrink with a band of solder inside a metal ring in the center. The two wires are inserted, the bare ends meeting in the center ring. When a heat gun is used to shrink the tubing, it also melts the bead of solder making a solid connection. Although probably not necessary, I typically add a section of black heat shrink over the entire connection. They come in different sizes.
Holes are not being drilled into the forward frame unless absolutely necessary. Straps can be seen around frame members to hold accessories in pictures of original D Types, such as the heat shield protecting the wire harness on the left side. When securing wire to the frame our practice is to wrap a length of friction tape (not electrical tape) around the frame member and then use a wire tie to secure wires. When wire ties are wrapped around wires under the hood friction tape is first wrapped around the wires.
With the primary chassis wiring now complete we can replace the instrument panel and complete the connections from the panel to the chassis and other wiring items.
A Dymo model 4200 wire labeler with heat shrink wire labels were used to mark each wire on both the chassis side and the panel side. This is a handy gadget which will make future tracing of wires much easier. When the panel is in place it will be an easy matter to just match up the wires labeled with identical descriptions. Quarter inch tubing was used on most of the wire with just a couple requiring 3/8”. The font was set at 8 point.
Each wire has a ring connector crimped in place. Heat shrink was used.
Flat labels were also made to mark the circuit breakers.
Braided wire sleeve is used in several locations. It has a vintage look and provides good chafe protection. A little tip: the braided wire sleeve material tends to fray at the ends. A soldering iron gently dabbed on the ends seals the material and keeps it intact.
The nuts on the screws that pass through and are on the engine side of the fire wall are metal lock nuts. Using Nyloc nuts in the engine compartment is typically not recommended. Frankly regular nuts would have been fine.
Several wires had to be directly joined. These connectors are sold under several brand names and are really cool. They are clear heat shrink with a band of solder inside a metal ring in the center. The two wires are inserted, the bare ends meeting in the center ring. When a heat gun is used to shrink the tubing, it also melts the bead of solder making a solid connection. Although probably not necessary, I typically add a section of black heat shrink over the entire connection. They come in different sizes.
Holes are not being drilled into the forward frame unless absolutely necessary. Straps can be seen around frame members to hold accessories in pictures of original D Types, such as the heat shield protecting the wire harness on the left side. When securing wire to the frame our practice is to wrap a length of friction tape (not electrical tape) around the frame member and then use a wire tie to secure wires. When wire ties are wrapped around wires under the hood friction tape is first wrapped around the wires.
With the primary chassis wiring now complete we can replace the instrument panel and complete the connections from the panel to the chassis and other wiring items.
