and will improve accelerations...A monocoque will be lighter...... especially around the wallet area.
That’s pretty interesting given the poor quality materials (un-galvanized, thin mild steel) that was used in the original chassis. Not to mention the much higher quality tires, springs, shocks and brakes being used in most replicas…. I’m not saying you are mistaken - just extremely curious how this can be… Possibly the Steel spider vs. Fiberglass as used by nearly all replica houses?Having driven original mono on track, and most of the replica market cars, including the monocoques, my choice is the original, by a long way
I remember there is a very old thread some where on this website. IIRC the Monocoque is quite a bit stronger, *** BUT the whole discussion turned into a shit fight due the the method used at front and rear of the chassis to attach it to a plate that allowed it to be attached to the jig/fixture being used to apply the torsion force. Onece all our manufacturers started touting their designs as being better than others the whole discussion fell to bits.So funny enough I was wondering what the torsional values of a monocoque vs an SGT chassis. As I was wondering would FAV been better offering a semi stressed tubular chassis that was less costly to build?
On the topic of the original monocoque chassis, does anyone know what the thickness/guage of the sheet steel was and what the specific grade of steel used? In doing comparison to some of the modern replicas currently available, I’m curious how the basic material strength compares (I realize there is a substantial amount more that goes into the final strength of the chassis, well beyond what an enthusiast could determine, but basic material does play a role).
So funny enough I was wondering what the torsional values of a monocoque vs an SGT chassis. As I was wondering would FAV been better offering a semi stressed tubular chassis that was less costly to build?