There’s a lot of build questions and answers and opinions, but I’ve never seen a good review of the driving experience of the SL-C. I had a brief drive in one that was powered by the LT4, but it was on a short street road so hard to make any real comparisons. It was tight like being in a Radical however, the steering is not near as twitchy and precise as the Radical and Fran explained the reason with the slow rack. I’m just wondering everyone’s experience comparing to other cars such as 05/06 FGT or 911s or any such comparison. I’d love to hear a review of the experience inside the SLC from people who have had a lot of seat time. We call it a supercar, but I’d like someone to compare it to a 430 or 458 or a Carrera GT or Ford GT, or any such car. Thanks.
SL-C Driving Experience
- Thread starter nautoncall
- Start date
Yea I’ve watched about every YouTube video. Just was hoping someone with other super car/exotic car experiences would chime in.
Perhaps Alex will see this and chime in.
Regards Brian
Regards Brian
Superlite Cars wins NASA National Championship in dominating fashion
“I could put the car anywhere”, said Ryan Ellis (Ashburn, VA), driver of the 2011 Superlite Coupe in a post-race interview, after decisively winning the Super Unlimited class in the 2011 National Auto Sports Association (NASA) National Championship race on Saturday 9/10/11.
Which was a good thing, as the track was treacherous for the Super Unlimited class race held at the fabled Mid Ohio Sports Car Course in Lexington, Ohio. Damp conditions-- and later pouring rain—roiled the track surface during the event, a situation made worse by the slick tires that shod almost all the cars on track.
the most important question is what exactly are you looking for? do you want to see how it compares in comfort? performance? to a super car? do you want the perspective of a street driven car or how it does on a race track?, you can find more detailed comments from Ryan Ellis on the internet regarding his racing experience on the SLC.
Cam drove the SLC from Denver to West Texas this summer, he has documented the most detailed driving experiences of a street driven SLC. Howard Jones has a lot of experience for a track only car that he takes to COTA often. Of course the comfort and street drivability depends greatly on the quality of the build, such as sound and heat insulation, interior details and so on.
I hope this is helpful.
Hector
“I could put the car anywhere”, said Ryan Ellis (Ashburn, VA), driver of the 2011 Superlite Coupe in a post-race interview, after decisively winning the Super Unlimited class in the 2011 National Auto Sports Association (NASA) National Championship race on Saturday 9/10/11.
Which was a good thing, as the track was treacherous for the Super Unlimited class race held at the fabled Mid Ohio Sports Car Course in Lexington, Ohio. Damp conditions-- and later pouring rain—roiled the track surface during the event, a situation made worse by the slick tires that shod almost all the cars on track.
the most important question is what exactly are you looking for? do you want to see how it compares in comfort? performance? to a super car? do you want the perspective of a street driven car or how it does on a race track?, you can find more detailed comments from Ryan Ellis on the internet regarding his racing experience on the SLC.
Cam drove the SLC from Denver to West Texas this summer, he has documented the most detailed driving experiences of a street driven SLC. Howard Jones has a lot of experience for a track only car that he takes to COTA often. Of course the comfort and street drivability depends greatly on the quality of the build, such as sound and heat insulation, interior details and so on.
I hope this is helpful.
Hector
Is that the yellow LT5?? Yeah, that would be great comparing it to his 911. I drove a 911 turbo before not any kind of GT2/GT3 and it was just almost too smooth. I just didn’t connect with the car. know there are Porsche fanatics that say they’re the best driving cars ever.
And I know all the racing was done in 2011 and that’s been 13 years ago. I have a 2009 Radical SR3and even though the car has not changed much is significantly better today than it was back then. I know that’s not an apples to apples comparison. I would’ve have loved to see some of the superlites with a smarty cam and transposed gauges. I don’t see any videos out there like that.
And I know all the racing was done in 2011 and that’s been 13 years ago. I have a 2009 Radical SR3and even though the car has not changed much is significantly better today than it was back then. I know that’s not an apples to apples comparison. I would’ve have loved to see some of the superlites with a smarty cam and transposed gauges. I don’t see any videos out there like that.
Much of your driving experience is going to be dictated by your ability to set up a chassis, your suspension part selections, tire aspect ratio, power, insulation decisions, on and on. The result will be as individual as you are. Any "production" Supercar has a fleet of engineers working out every performance, function and drivability detail and within reason, everyone of them (within brand, model) gives the same driving experience.
Superlite provide you a good set of bones to start work with, how good are you at engineering and development is the difference between a rolling pile of components and a well developed Supercar experience. The latter takes serious dedication to achieve.
If the phrase "Built not Bought" has meaning to you, then you are a prospective member of a small association of people.
Superlite provide you a good set of bones to start work with, how good are you at engineering and development is the difference between a rolling pile of components and a well developed Supercar experience. The latter takes serious dedication to achieve.
If the phrase "Built not Bought" has meaning to you, then you are a prospective member of a small association of people.
could not have said it better Mesa, that is my license plate cover "built not bought"
I'm with Mesa. It's all about how you set yours up. Personally mine is setup hard as a rock and marginal height for the street. It's not the least bit twitchy (when it's right). Mine is used mainly for Open Road Racing where speeds are 130+ for 20-28 minutes at a time. With the downforce it needs to be stiff and even then it can take out every road reflector in sight.
If you want a good car for street speeds, you should consider electric power steering and 1) a lot less toe (front and back); 2) less camber; 3) reasonable ride height and 4) softer springs. IMHO, I don't need power steering (even for a daily driver) - but a LOT of folks seem to prefer it.
My car is also loud (no sound deadening, partial windows, and only enough muffler to say it has a muffler. Others I've ridden in have been a lot more pleasant!
I've had other "performance cars" from a Viper at one extreme to a Lotus at the other. The SLC is more at the Viper end of the spectrum. It's got a long enough wheel base that it's never going to be a killer parking lot autocross car. But it can be rock solid at highway and typical track speeds. Of coarse being mid-engine steering with the throttle (easy in the Viper) is not for the faint of heart. On the other end, the Lotus is great at parking lot speed and will wear you out at high speed just keeping the back behind the front. If that is what you are looking for... know that it would be a challenge to get the SLC to that point.
If you want a good car for street speeds, you should consider electric power steering and 1) a lot less toe (front and back); 2) less camber; 3) reasonable ride height and 4) softer springs. IMHO, I don't need power steering (even for a daily driver) - but a LOT of folks seem to prefer it.
My car is also loud (no sound deadening, partial windows, and only enough muffler to say it has a muffler. Others I've ridden in have been a lot more pleasant!
I've had other "performance cars" from a Viper at one extreme to a Lotus at the other. The SLC is more at the Viper end of the spectrum. It's got a long enough wheel base that it's never going to be a killer parking lot autocross car. But it can be rock solid at highway and typical track speeds. Of coarse being mid-engine steering with the throttle (easy in the Viper) is not for the faint of heart. On the other end, the Lotus is great at parking lot speed and will wear you out at high speed just keeping the back behind the front. If that is what you are looking for... know that it would be a challenge to get the SLC to that point.
Neil
Supporter
"Mine is used mainly for Open Road Racing...
"Do you know Rex Svoboda from MT who runs a McLaren M6GT replica in open- road racing?
Joel K
Supporter
Frank, what toe and camber settings would you recommend for the street?
Howard Jones
Supporter
I've had this in the download file for some time. It was a lot of help at the beginning. Read it carefully and compare things like soft bushing material instead of solid rod ends. Long wheelbases like an SLC compared to a short English sport car like an MG. Absolutely optimum setup devoted to the fastest possible lap time versus a very fast streetcar (but NOT a race-only car).
My current setup for my track car is: COTA setup 145 -150 MPH on straights and about 2:35-37 lap times
Ride height F about 3.25 inches R 4 inches both measured in line with the axles on the closest point on the adjacent chassis tubing bottom.
The rear wing set to 8 degrees angle of attack.
springs F 800 R 950
Shocks are the QA-1 standard as supplied by RCR. They are maxed out at the rear on rebound and compression and nearly maxed out at the front. The rear has one click left and the fronts have 3 clicks left on both R and C.
front camber -2.5 degrees
front caster 6 degrees
front toe 1/16 inch as measured at the wheel rim on each side for a total toe in of 1/8 inch.
rear camber -2 degrees
rear caster none
rear toe as close to none as possible with a bias towards about 1/32 on each side for a total of 1/16 inch measured at the wheel rim. This is the limit of my string alignment method.
Tires: all my previous data was gathered on used R7 Hoosiers. I now have a new set of TOYO RR's on the car. F 295/30/18 R 345/30/19
Pressures after hot and stabilized 28 all around.
My suggestions for a street car SLC.
Set ride height to F4 and R 4.5
F600 R 750 springs to start with with no angle of attack on the rear wing
set shocks to the middle of the range and go from there
camber F -.33 to.5 R -.25
caster 6 degrees F rear none
toe F good roads .-25 total, bad roads more towards -3/16 total, rear still try for no toe in but under any condition no (NONE!) toe out using my same method.
tire pressure, try 28 -30 once the tires are warm
That's the best I have on this. The biggest difference for street cars from car to car will be tire selection, your weather conditions, and street pavement conditions. As well as your driving "style"
grassrootsmotorsports.com
suspensionsecrets.co.uk
And this guy has been helpful. He has a few different videos on different subjects, It all sounds right to me.
Here's how I aline my car. pretty much the same stuff but made to bolt onto the car.
My current setup for my track car is: COTA setup 145 -150 MPH on straights and about 2:35-37 lap times
Ride height F about 3.25 inches R 4 inches both measured in line with the axles on the closest point on the adjacent chassis tubing bottom.
The rear wing set to 8 degrees angle of attack.
springs F 800 R 950
Shocks are the QA-1 standard as supplied by RCR. They are maxed out at the rear on rebound and compression and nearly maxed out at the front. The rear has one click left and the fronts have 3 clicks left on both R and C.
front camber -2.5 degrees
front caster 6 degrees
front toe 1/16 inch as measured at the wheel rim on each side for a total toe in of 1/8 inch.
rear camber -2 degrees
rear caster none
rear toe as close to none as possible with a bias towards about 1/32 on each side for a total of 1/16 inch measured at the wheel rim. This is the limit of my string alignment method.
Tires: all my previous data was gathered on used R7 Hoosiers. I now have a new set of TOYO RR's on the car. F 295/30/18 R 345/30/19
Pressures after hot and stabilized 28 all around.
My suggestions for a street car SLC.
Set ride height to F4 and R 4.5
F600 R 750 springs to start with with no angle of attack on the rear wing
set shocks to the middle of the range and go from there
camber F -.33 to.5 R -.25
caster 6 degrees F rear none
toe F good roads .-25 total, bad roads more towards -3/16 total, rear still try for no toe in but under any condition no (NONE!) toe out using my same method.
tire pressure, try 28 -30 once the tires are warm
That's the best I have on this. The biggest difference for street cars from car to car will be tire selection, your weather conditions, and street pavement conditions. As well as your driving "style"
What is Camber, caster and toe? | Handling basics
As the three most important alignment parameters, it's vital to understand what camber, caster and toe is, as well as how it can affect performance.
grassrootsmotorsports.com
Toe - How to Adjust and Tune - Suspension Secrets
How to measure, adjust and alter toe to suit the driver and the style of circuit. The different effects of toe is separated into
suspensionsecrets.co.uk
And this guy has been helpful. He has a few different videos on different subjects, It all sounds right to me.
Here's how I aline my car. pretty much the same stuff but made to bolt onto the car.
Last edited:
Thank you Howard. Always superb information. The street setup recommendation is exactly what I was looking for .I've had this in the download file for some time. It was a lot of help at the beginning. Read it carefully and compare things like soft bushing material instead of solid rod ends. Long wheelbases like an SLC compared to a short English sport car like an MG. Absolutely optimum setup devoted to the fastest possible lap time versus a very fast streetcar (but NOT a race-only car).
My current setup for my track car is: COTA setup 145 -150 MPH on straights and about 2:35-37 lap times
Ride height F about 3.25 inches R 4 inches both measured in line with the axles on the closest point on the adjacent chassis tubing bottom.
The rear wing set to 8 degrees angle of attack.
springs F 800 R 950
Shocks are the QA-1 standard as supplied by RCR. They are maxed out at the rear on rebound and compression and nearly maxed out at the front. The rear has one click left and the fronts have 3 clicks left on both R and C.
front camber -2.5 degrees
front caster 6 degrees
front toe 1/16 inch as measured at the wheel rim on each side for a total toe in of 1/8 inch.
rear camber -2 degrees
rear caster none
rear toe as close to none as possible with a bias towards about 1/32 on each side for a total of 1/16 inch measured at the wheel rim. This is the limit of my string alignment method.
Tires: all my previous data was gathered on used R7 Hoosiers. I now have a new set of TOYO RR's on the car. F 295/30/18 R 345/30/19
Pressures after hot and stabilized 28 all around.
My suggestions for a street car SLC.
Set ride height to F4 and R 4.5
F600 R 750 springs to start with with no angle of attack on the rear wing
set shocks to the middle of the range and go from there
camber F -.33 to.5 R -.25
caster 6 degrees F rear none
toe F good roads .-25 total, bad roads more towards -3/16 total, rear still try for no toe in but under any condition no (NONE!) toe out using my same method.
tire pressure, try 28 -30 once the tires are warm
That's the best I have on this. The biggest difference for street cars from car to car will be tire selection, your weather conditions, and street pavement conditions. As well as your driving "style"
What is Camber, caster and toe? | Handling basics
As the three most important alignment parameters, it's vital to understand what camber, caster and toe is, as well as how it can affect performance.
Toe - How to Adjust and Tune - Suspension Secrets
How to measure, adjust and alter toe to suit the driver and the style of circuit. The different effects of toe is separated into
And this guy has been helpful. He has a few different videos on different subjects, It all sounds right to me.
Here's how I aline my car. pretty much the same stuff but made to bolt onto the car.
Hector
Nope. Don't think he's been running BBORR.
BTW, Great info from Howard above. Guys don't be afraid to do your own alignment. It's not rocket science. Just takes care and patience.
Some of the settings are personal preference within reason (caster and toe), so don't hesitate to change.
I run a bit more toe-in than Howard (front and back). Have tried lots on the rear wing. Currently running a smaller wing. My springs are similar to Howards except I have 200+300lb bump springs (500 total) that it rides on at speed when the wing is cranked. My shocks are softer (I'm running country highways).
Some of the settings are personal preference within reason (caster and toe), so don't hesitate to change.
I run a bit more toe-in than Howard (front and back). Have tried lots on the rear wing. Currently running a smaller wing. My springs are similar to Howards except I have 200+300lb bump springs (500 total) that it rides on at speed when the wing is cranked. My shocks are softer (I'm running country highways).
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