930 shortened bell measurements

[Jim S.]

Guys,

I was wondering if anyone who has a 930 that has been shortened could take some measurements for me before you get your trans mated to the engine? I'm trying to figureout the exact amount to shorten my bell housing and input shaft.

1) Length of steel cylinder that the throughout bearing rides on.

2) distance from the end of that cylinder to the face of bellhousing.

3) distance from the end of the cylinder to the end of the input shaft.

4) distance from the end of cylinder to where the input shaft starts to increase in diameter to transition up to the spline diameter.

5) and finally the distance from the cylinder to where the splines start and are at there max dia.


Thanks for your help.

 

[Russ Noble]

Why do you want to shorten it Jim?

If you want to replicate a short bell 930 the distance is 30mm.

Cheers

 

[Jim S.]

Because I want to move the motor back to give more room at the front of the engine without having to move the transaxle back and put the axles at a bad angle.

Do you know of a problem with shortening the trans? Clutch, pressure plate, or throw out fork problems??

I know that the bellhousing is 30mm shorter as you mentioned, but I wasn't sure if by some strange reason the input shaft pilot area and spline area was shortened a different amount??

Thanks,

 

[Jim S.]

Wow, I can't believe I stumped this huge community with these questions.

I guess I will have to assume that the input shaft gets shorten the exact same amount as the bellhousing (30mm). This is what I assumed, but I just wanted to make sure.

If anyone has anything to add I would appreciate it.

 

[Russ Noble]

Jim, Do you have the bell with the extra rib?

 

[Jim S.]

Yes sir. It is a 87'

 

[Russ Noble]

Jim, you shorten it back to that rib, but what you take off everything else will depend on what flywheel you're using, how thick your adaptor plate is, where your clutch plates sit, where your spigot sits. Just sit down, measure it all up and figure out the most suitable measurements for your application. You don't have to slavishly follow the Porsche dimensions. That's why I asked about the rib, that's the logical place to shorten it to. If you didn't have the rib you could shorten it as much as you like, still could, to suit your particular application. So long as there's still room for everything to work properly inside the bellhousing.

Cheers,

 

[Jack Houpe]

I am purchasing a Superformance Mk1 and researching all the transmission options, which are few. Not to far from my home (3 hours) is a big Porsche wrecking yard in Norman OK. My first thoughts where Porsche transmission so I might get a hold of these guys and take a trip over. What should I be looking for? Sorry to jump in late on the tread with questions like this.

 

[Russ Noble]

Jack, you should be looking for a G50. A G50/0x if you've got a mild 302 otherwise you'll want a turbo box G50/50 (like hens teeth) or a G50/52. If you've got a real grunty big cube donk you may want to go with a 930.

For more info punch those numbers into the search engine!

Cheers

 

[Jim S.]

Russ,

Thanks for the info. I'm just gathering trans and engine components right now because I don't have the funds to purchase an RCR yet. I also don't have the adapter plate, flywheel, spigot adapter/bearing, or pressure plate. I just have the 930 trans right now and a used SBF so I was going to machine up the trans while I'm waiting to gather the other stuff, but it seems like I should probably just wait until I have all clutch components. I just thought if I could get the measurements that I'd get this out of the way, but it seems like there is no exact recipe so I guess I'll wait until I can have all the parts and take the measurements and make it happen.

Thanks for your feed back.

Take care,