Aaron's SL-C build...
- Thread starter Aaron Hamilton
- Start date
Aaron:
Are you planning to do any racing?
If so do you plan on protecting you’re A/C compressor they will blowup at 7000 RPM when engaged.
There are two ways to do it:
1) Call ISIS they can do it with isolated tach input (to reduce electronic noise). Don’t quote me but if you are using LS motor I believe that the tach output comes from the ECU should be clean. You will have to send in the effected units that need to be reprogrammed. I have talked to Jay Harris about this.
2) You can get from Summit or Jegs a RPM-Activated Switch they run from about $52 to over $200 at the time of this writing.
If you are racing is a roll-over switch, it will kill fuel pump in a roll over!
If you want to have the head lights come on when it is starting to get dark, you will need to purchase a light sensor (ebay has lots) to mount in you dash, then have ISIS do some reprogramming.
If you have any other electronic thing you may want to add just ask Jay at ISIS, I have not had him say no to me yet.
Great Car:gorgeous: Very envious!!
Are you planning to do any racing?
If so do you plan on protecting you’re A/C compressor they will blowup at 7000 RPM when engaged.
There are two ways to do it:
1) Call ISIS they can do it with isolated tach input (to reduce electronic noise). Don’t quote me but if you are using LS motor I believe that the tach output comes from the ECU should be clean. You will have to send in the effected units that need to be reprogrammed. I have talked to Jay Harris about this.
2) You can get from Summit or Jegs a RPM-Activated Switch they run from about $52 to over $200 at the time of this writing.
If you are racing is a roll-over switch, it will kill fuel pump in a roll over!
If you want to have the head lights come on when it is starting to get dark, you will need to purchase a light sensor (ebay has lots) to mount in you dash, then have ISIS do some reprogramming.
If you have any other electronic thing you may want to add just ask Jay at ISIS, I have not had him say no to me yet.
Great Car:gorgeous: Very envious!!
ISIS don't give out the programming software to change the PLC so you have to tell them what you need to change.
That sharp 90 degree turn may be a problem in the cooling system, as it will serve to both restrict flow and add turbulence.
You could replace it with a smooth 90 hose with a longer leg and keep the same number of hose junctions, as well.
You saw my car, and talked to me at the Charlotte Autofair.
Apparently, neither one made much of an impression.
True, while many may have not built an SLC, many have quite a bit of experience building racecars, streetcars, aircraft, etc. While you may feel that some posts are jabs at your build, I would say the majority of posts are observations on things that may cause issues for you down the road (pardon the pun) or may be a easier/safer way. Will's remark on the sharp bend is correct, it will cause restrictions and turbulence. I would like to think his post was to alert you to an issue that may cause engine cooling issues. Just my opinion, your mileage may vary.
Please try not to take offense at peoples comments I believe that most are really trying to help. Yes, they don’t know how much you know or don’t know. Nice thing you can choose to take the advice or not. Also think of it advice for those who read this post as it may help them if not you.
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w
oNotOptimizeForBrowser/> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--> My expertise is I have over 25 years in Industrial HVAC and when it comes to turbulence sometimes it is good and others it is not.
For example turbulence is good for heat transfer getting the heat from the engine and getting the heat out of the radiator more efficiently.
It is not good when you want to transport fluid you want it a non-turbulent or laminar flow as possible to reduce the horsepower need to move it, especially as long as the tubes are in this car. I have seen the modified water pumps I wish they would remove the “T” and make it just a mandrel bend 90 it would remove a lot of turbulence.
If you can afford to get the optional welded pipe or have someone mandrel bend the tube from front to back, think of it as putting more horsepower to the ground.
As I said at the top of this you can ignore all!!
I just hope that I help.
Once I have it running I'll observe the engine temps and see what I think. I'd say it's not a concern since the engine itself has 90's at the water pump inlet and exit. Just more turbulence
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w
oNotOptimizeForBrowser/> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--> My expertise is I have over 25 years in Industrial HVAC and when it comes to turbulence sometimes it is good and others it is not. For example turbulence is good for heat transfer getting the heat from the engine and getting the heat out of the radiator more efficiently.
It is not good when you want to transport fluid you want it a non-turbulent or laminar flow as possible to reduce the horsepower need to move it, especially as long as the tubes are in this car. I have seen the modified water pumps I wish they would remove the “T” and make it just a mandrel bend 90 it would remove a lot of turbulence.
If you can afford to get the optional welded pipe or have someone mandrel bend the tube from front to back, think of it as putting more horsepower to the ground.
As I said at the top of this you can ignore all!!
I just hope that I help.
Installed the engine and bumped it over to verify oil pressure with the starter. Starter engagement and oil pressure are good to go.
Exhaust system fabrication this week and my electrical wiring diagram is 95% complete. :thumbsup:
I connected the Cable-shift cables to my Graziano today and it still seems that one of the cables is 1 3/4" too long. I'm modifying the RCR bracket now. :thumbsdown:
Exhaust system fabrication this week and my electrical wiring diagram is 95% complete. :thumbsup:
I connected the Cable-shift cables to my Graziano today and it still seems that one of the cables is 1 3/4" too long. I'm modifying the RCR bracket now. :thumbsdown:
Can you supply the part numbers? Thanks
The cable bracket is a replica of the original Graziano piece, no need to recreate the wheel when it works just fine.
Jim at Cableshift, shifter supplier can assist with any cable issues as its his design replicating the OEM unit I sent him to recreate.
We have used an unmodified brackets along with the cables the same length as supplied...Ed Davis yellow car is the latest case in point.
Jim at Cableshift, shifter supplier can assist with any cable issues as its his design replicating the OEM unit I sent him to recreate.
We have used an unmodified brackets along with the cables the same length as supplied...Ed Davis yellow car is the latest case in point.
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