Aaron's SL-C build...

[Bill]

I suspect that the heat transfer thru the clamp mount is negligible, as long as you have a little air space between the pipe and frame. After all, its mounted on the outside of a 2"x6" structure member, so there is already a considerable amount of air space inside there already.

You will experience far more interior heat from the radiant heat coming off the pipe itself and the warm air exiting the radiator that naturally flows all around the outside of the cabin. So insulating the pipes, insulating front of the cabin, and sealing of any air infiltration will make the most difference.

 

[Aaron H.]

Bulkhead panel installed. Lava wrap to follow.

 

[Aaron H.]

Wire-way installed inside to rear cross member. I'm planning to run the ISIS powercell wiring inside it. This will keep the bulkhead free of clutter.

 

[Aaron H.]

Assembly of the front end is pretty well complete.

 

[Eric McClellan]

Assembly of the front end is pretty well complete.

Where did you get those blue radiator hoses? Are they bendable and/or keep their shape?

 

[Garry 20 B]

Are you going to put the battery up there also?

 

[Aaron H.]

The straight radiator hose of all colors can be purchased on the internet. All of my blue hose will be changed to black. I'm simply test fitting all of the pieces now.

Garry.. The battery is in front of the rear drivers tire.

 

[Aaron H.]

I am test fitting the body a little before I move on to getting her fired up. I found a few issues that I want to address about how the anchor and dash fit.

 

[Aaron H.]

More pics...

 

[Jim T]

Where did you get those blue radiator hoses? Are they bendable and/or keep their shape?

The straight radiator hose of all colors can be purchased on the internet. All of my blue hose will be changed to black. I'm simply test fitting all of the pieces now.

Garry.. The battery is in front of the rear drivers tire.

Eric, I purchased the blue hose at McMaster-Carr #5296K391 - $12.20 per ft.


It is important to note that many manufactures color code their hose to indicate: rated use and temp/press range. Therefore it is prudent to focus on mfg. specs as opposed to color.

5296K391 is rated for:
High-Temp/Medium-Pressure
Use: Coolant Hose - Ethylene Glycol & H2O
Temp. Range: 65*-350*F
Max PSI: 60
Construction: Silicone/Reinforced Silicone Coated Polyester
Interior: Smooth for Unrestricted Flow
Not Rated for Bend Radius


Jim

 

[Aaron H.]

Agreed.. You should always make sure that the hoses that your using are correct for the application. I also purchase from McMaster..

 

[Aaron H.]

The missing link arrived today. Thanks Fran...

 

[Aaron H.]

Completed the wiring to the front fans and ram lift with Weather-tite connectors.

 

[PeteB]

FYI, DO NOT follow the instructions in the ISIS manual for the fan connections. If you wire the fan signal wire directly to the GM control box like the ISIS manual says to, it will provide 12v to the mastercell and fry that circuit in the mastercell. Ask me how I know....

 

[Alex]

FYI, DO NOT follow the instructions in the ISIS manual for the fan connections. If you wire the fan signal wire directly to the GM control box like the ISIS manual says to, it will provide 12v to the mastercell and fry that circuit in the mastercell. Ask me how I know....

The ISIS manual doesn't say to do that; it quite clearly says only wire switched ground to the mastercell

 

[Alex]

well I'll be; you were right Pete, it's in that SLC specific instruction manual, if you followed that you're be hosed, heh, should have read the main instruction manual. I'm surprised Jay wrote that ... he was the one who told me years ago it would be no beuno to do that.

If you're going to connect to GM switch 12v signal you need to run an inVERT inline (converts from 12v to switch ground)

ISIS inVERT Mini

 

[Allan]

FYI, DO NOT follow the instructions in the ISIS manual for the fan connections. If you wire the fan signal wire directly to the GM control box like the ISIS manual says to, it will provide 12v to the mastercell and fry that circuit in the mastercell. Ask me how I know....

ISIS had a bad batch of harnesses where the inverter was left out of the circuit. Everyone should check their harness to see if the little inverter is in there and then test the circuit if it is in there. It is supposed to be located about 6 inches back along the wire that is added to the master cell connector. There should be a bump in the harness where the inverter is.
It should work as the manual describes but the inverter has to be in there.

 

[Aaron H.]

Point taken.. I'll check if out.. Great info guys..

 

[Luke S]

I've wired a couple cars from scratch and built a few race cars from tubes. BUT this ISIS thing has me concerned. Should I be as it just seems "foreign" to me or will the directions and this forum get me through the hurdles?

I've seen it on TV and here and kind of understand the concept. The XK8 was the first car I understand to use similar technology. So its been around for like 17 years and I'm still intimidated, LOL.

 

[Alex]

I've wired a couple cars from scratch and built a few race cars from tubes. BUT this ISIS thing has me concerned. Should I be as it just seems "foreign" to me or will the directions and this forum get me through the hurdles?

I've seen it on TV and here and kind of understand the concept. The XK8 was the first car I understand to use similar technology. So its been around for like 17 years and I'm still intimidated, LOL.

it's very easy. you basically have 2 magic boxes.

From 1 magic box all the wires go to switches (off/on) or directly to ground.

From the other magic box all the wires go to stuff that sucks power (ecu, fuel pump, lights, etc...)