Accu sump

[EGLITOM]

Hi

i´m thinking about installing an ACCUSUMP into my car.

Idee is to build a pretty simple system which helps to add security in hard cornering. I have a AVIAD GT40 oilpan do you recommand an ACCUSUMP with this anyway ?
I intend to put in a electrical valve which i switch on when i plan to run the car a little harder. Thus having the ACCUSUMP than permanently open to balance out any pressure drops and get refeeded when pressure rises again.
Is this the correct way to use and install it ?

My thoughts are to tie it into the return line from the oil cooler with a T- fitting. Do i need a check valve which prevent the oil flowing back wards in direction to the oil pump?

What size ACCUSUPM you recommand ?

Any sketches and experiences are very welcome.

Thanks

TOM

 

[Michael Lee]

Not sre if that is the right way to use it here is two websites each have install info.

Merlin Motorsport

http://www.hrpworld.com/client_images/ecommerce/client_39/cat_header/102_3.pdf

Hope this helps.

 

[Michael Lee]

I am wrong about how they work. Read the second one, some good info.

 

[Michael Lee]

Basicly it is plumed in line after your oil cooler and remote fitlet if you have one, with a t- fitting. You lso use a one way check valve to nsure the oil will flow towward the engines feed side of the system. There is two types of electric valves, for what you are wanting to do you want the E.P.C type of valve, you will need to know your average operating oil pressure, to be able to pre-charge the air side of the system.

 

[Ron Earp]

Hey Tom,

They have good directions on the site as posted above.

Use a manual valve. Someone posted on my Accusump for sale post to use an electric valve, that is incorrect unless you only want to use it for start up. Use a manual valve for the main valve on the unit if you intend to use it for track work.

I've plumbed many of these things and how they interface with your oiling system will decide if you need a check valve in system or not. On my Z I needed a check valve, but, you might be able to plumb directly into the main galley or something like that and not have to use one.

Ron

 

[EGLITOM]

Thanks

Ron The electrical valve i intend to use is just a electric operated on and off valve ( no pressure controlled valve). so basically the same is a mechanical on and off valve. It just allows me to shut it on and off from the cockpit without the need to go out off the car, open the rear deck, shut it off and than close down the engine.

Actually after reading the instructions the EPC controlled option sounds good to me.
I would choose the 35 - 40 psi combo. is this hte one to use on a 331 ?

One question: if the system discharges into the engine how long does it take to refill ?
3 quarts into the engine is not a small volume. will there be any owerflow at the crankcase venting ?



Michael, thanks for the links

TOM

 

[Ron Earp]

Thanks

Ron The electrical valve i intend to use is just a electric operated on and off valve ( no pressure controlled valve). so basically the same is a mechanical on and off valve. It just allows me to shut it on and off from the cockpit without the need to go out off the car, open the rear deck, shut it off and than close down the engine.

Should be fine then. Another person had mentioned that an electrical valve was required for proper accumulator functioning in a low oil pressure situation but that is not correct.

You could also go the cable operated method on the valve if you wanted a bit of simplicity.

Already sold, went in an hour or so.

 

[DaveM]

Thanks

Ron The electrical valve i intend to use is just a electric operated on and off valve ( no pressure controlled valve). so basically the same is a mechanical on and off valve. It just allows me to shut it on and off from the cockpit without the need to go out off the car, open the rear deck, shut it off and than close down the engine.

Actually after reading the instructions the EPC controlled option sounds good to me.
I would choose the 35 - 40 psi combo. is this hte one to use on a 331 ?

One question: if the system discharges into the engine how long does it take to refill ?
3 quarts into the engine is not a small volume. will there be any owerflow at the crankcase venting ?



Michael, thanks for the links

TOM

Tom,
I've not had any overflow problems with a 3 qt. accusump. Good question on refill time-I don't know. I only have the simple electric valve version, not the EPC one. I didn't have room to get the extra EPC plumbing in, but the simple valve version has worked fine for me. Never drops under 30psi on long corners on track days.

 

[Julian]

Should be fine then. Another person had mentioned that an electrical valve was required for proper accumulator functioning in a low oil pressure situation but that is not correct.

Ron,

That was me and I reread the post and admit I didn't convey the message at all well. An EPC valve controls at the pressure setting of the valve rather than allowing the accusump to discharge and mainatian an equilibrium on any pressure drop it sees. On refill rates the EPC does allow faster refill rates of the accusump.

Sorry for any confusion created.

 

[Bill Musarra]

Tom,
The EPC valves come in different values. You don't want one that is close to what you run normally. When idling the valve should stay shut. That is, the operating pressure should be above the trigger pressure. I chose the lower pressure setting(15 or 20) because I wanted it to only operate when the pickup actually ran out of oil. I am using a Kevko pan that is multi-gated to keep as much oil as possible at the pickup during turns. I also will get a lot of street time on the engine, which means a lot of idling. I plumbed mine as in Fig 2 of the Accusump article. Things get a little crowded on that side of the engine with all the tubing.

Bill

 

[EGLITOM]

Thanks for all the input

i tought to wire it according the scheme attached. This way i would have the option to manualy override the pressure control switch and open the electric valve permanently if i want. Bill i will take your reco into consideration and would order the 20-25psi pressure control switch ( not corrected yet in the sketch)

(The quality of the sketch is ok if you click on it and view it on fullscreen)
What you think ?

TOM

 

[Julian]

I put a 3 quart version on my GT40 with 347 motor after losing oil pressure and killing a crank. Works well - holds 2 bar on the race track around corners. I used the high flow electric valve (35 psi version), a manual override off switch and a one way valve. Tried it without the one way valve originally, but better with one way valve.

This is despite having a Milodon trap door and baffled road-race sump in the car. I've put a windage tray in over Christmas time to help. All I need to do now is get to the track again and see if it helps.

Overall - yes, an accusump is a good invstment I'd say.

 

[M.L.Hearn]

Will these work with a dry sump system? I am planning on running a 427 FE motor with the Aviad dry sump system. With the electric valve can you use it for both pre-lube and oil pressure lose?

 

[Julian]

Can't see why you couldn't use it as a pre-oiling system with a dry sump.

But, if you have a dry sump setup, then you should never have an oil pressure loss, unless the pump drive belt comes off I guess.

 

[M.L.Hearn]

That is what I had thought, main reason for going with dry sump system was FE have been know for aving oiling isssues in the past