Adaptor plate woes

[Simon]

OK, it's not strictly GT40 related, but I thought it better to post here than a GT40 related technical section. I have a TR6 fitted with a rover V8
I took the gearbox off today to replace the thrust bearing and I have a problem getting it back.
The TR6 gearbox is attached to an adaptor plate which in turn is attached to the engine. I removed the gearbox, leaving the adaptor plate still fitted to the engine (the box comes out from inside the car) and I noticed that the adaptor plate bolts were loose. being as how the adaptor plate would usually be fitted to a stag, this isn't usually a big problem as you just fit the plate to the gearbox and bolt it to the engine. However, in a TR6, space is TIGHT! I did manage to remove the adaptor plate from the engine and just about wiggle it out of the hole, but there is NO WAY the gearbox+adaptor plate will go anywhere near the aperture when bolted together.
I am going to have to take the adaptor plate off the gearbox and bolt it back to the engine. This leaves me with a problem. As the bolts are just "hanging loose" from the adaptor plate, if I try and offer up the gearbox, it will probably just push some or all of the bolts through the adaptor plate and into the flywheel/clutch area.
What I need is a way of fixing these steel bolts (at least temporarily) in the adaptor plate so I can bolt up the gearbox. Once the box is in place the nuts can be tightened and the bolt heads don't seem to revolve, it's just getting it mated in the first place.
I've thought of aralditing them in place, but I guess one whack with a 100lb gearbox would possibly push them straight back out.
There are 9 bolts alltogether and the ali is too thin to drill and tap
Any advice or tips greatly appreciated.

Simon

 

[Ron Earp]

Why not post it in the technical forums? Many GT40s have Rover V8s and this is a technical question. At least the technical forums on engines/gearboxes have more to do with the question than "All GT40".

Maybe weld ally nuts on the inside of the adapter plate and put the bolts in from the outside. Or tap the plate and thread studs/bolts through. How thick is it?

 

[Mike Pass]

Hi Simon,
Could you make up a small ali strap over each bolt head and rivet or weld it onto the adaptor plate (see pic). This will hold the bolt and also prevent rotation when you tighten it up.
Cheers
Mike

 

[Keith Oatney]

Any chance of using some of those little push-nut clips that manufacturers use to hold brake assemlies in place on the assembly line? Would these be too thick for your use if you use them on all the bolts:huh:?

 

[Simon]

OK, may have stumbled upon the solution.
I found these in my garage. I don't have enough and they may be the wrong size but they'd do the job perfectly.
Anyone know if they have a name and if so, where in the UK I can get more?
Simon

 

[Andy Green]

Simon
don't keep us in suspense, what have you found in your garage
Can't tell you the name, as I'm not feeling very telepathic this morning :laugh:

Regards
Andy

 

[Simon]

Either of these will do the job I think

RS | Mechanical Components | Fasteners and Fixings | Push on Retainers and Kits | Push-On Retainers

or

 

[Cliff Beer]

Simon, perhaps you could install studs into the gearbox side (instead of using bolts) which will then help guide the gearbox into position on the plate? That's assuming there's room to get nuts and washers onto the studs on the backside of the plate...

 

[Graham T]

OK, may have stumbled upon the solution.
I found these in my garage. I don't have enough and they may be the wrong size but they'd do the job perfectly.
Anyone know if they have a name and if so, where in the UK I can get more?
Simon

Simon,

These are known as "spire" nuts and come in many guises, some of which are "caged" and hold a floating nut within. Readily available from many restoration / fixings companies.

Regards,

Graham @ GTA

 

[Wayne M.]

A few years back in an installation kit for a trailer hitch were things that might work. They were pieces of stiff wire, not quite like piano wire, that had a spiral/spring wound into one end and were about a foot long. Bolts were threaded into the spirals and the long end of the wire was inserted into the frame to the proper hole that was out of reach of any fingers. Once the wire was through the hole the bolt could be pulled into place. This might get your bolts in place but wont do much if the heads spin while trying to tighten them.

 

[James McNutt]

What you need is some anchor nuts and the bolt it together in the opposite direction. These are used in aviation and are normally UNF so you may need to change your bolts also.