Hi Jerry, beautifull build I have to change the rod end on my gtd40,what is your size of the rose joint ont the front wishbones and on the rear ?thanks
Jerry, looking at your seat tracks & seat mounts (look familiar ), if the seat position still isn’t quite perfect you might consider elevating the front mount slightly higher. I found that gave me more headroom, more thigh support, and a more comfortable incline for pedal actuation.
Keep up the good work and keep posting.
Devin
will have a look later today ..
Jerry
Thanks Devin...
Looks like a good plan.
will investigate when all sanding done and can re fit seats...
Jerry
not sure if this will help as dont know if gtd uses same wishbones / layout as my AK . Southern set up..
but here goes..
front wishbones top and bottom use 1/2 bore / thread for mounting to chassis
outer joint for wishbone to upright use a pressed in taper joint... no idea on part number / size ..
rear bottom wishbone locates to chassis by 1/2 bore / thread
outer joints pick up on 5/8 rod and use 5/8 bore / thread joints
top arm connects to upright with 5/8 bore / thread
inboard top arm connects to chassis with 1/2 bore / thread.
forward facing arms are 1/2 bore / thread both ends for both upper and lower.
Jerry
HI ALL...
I havent posted in a while as been busy sanding body panels...yawn..!!! so here are some updates....
Fitted the clam catches
had to do some fiberglassing of door edges as panel gaps were too large..
some pictures attached...
used the bevel edge method and built up the thickness
I havent posted in a while as been busy sanding body panels...yawn..!!! so here are some updates....
Fitted the clam catches
had to do some fiberglassing of door edges as panel gaps were too large..
some pictures attached...
used the bevel edge method and built up the thickness
Attachments
The latest part i have been working on is a cover for the fuel fillers.
Everyone has a different view on life and for me I dont like the fuel fillers sticking up above the bodywork, also they are bloody expensive !
So i have opted for fillers that sit below the bodywork and to make a removable body contoured cover..
I started by making a foam insert to use as a buck
Everyone has a different view on life and for me I dont like the fuel fillers sticking up above the bodywork, also they are bloody expensive !
So i have opted for fillers that sit below the bodywork and to make a removable body contoured cover..
I started by making a foam insert to use as a buck
Attachments
from the mould i made another buck but in fiberglass
These were then filled and shaped to be a nice fit and finnish into the front clip.
From these I then made a second mould from which to make the actual covers.
I have fitted them using the push poppers from Car builder solutions.
These were then filled and shaped to be a nice fit and finnish into the front clip.
From these I then made a second mould from which to make the actual covers.
I have fitted them using the push poppers from Car builder solutions.
Attachments
Back to some mechanical work now...
For a reason i dont know the engine sits very close to the bulkhead and the trumpets are nearly touching the rear glass,
I am going to have to take a sliver off the trumpet for clearance.
As the the whole power plant is sat on rubbers there will be some forward movement of the engine under braking.
I am sure this will cause some form of contact with the chassis.
To overcome this I have added a brace longitudily between the engine and chassis.
I was able to pick up on a 1/2 UNC thread already on the engine and just had to weld in a 1/2 unf boss to locate a couple of rod ends.
This will still allow the engine to move about on its rubbers but will stop forward movement..
Pictures attached below.
also had too tight a fit for the coil on plug coils against the water pipes to the swirl pot.
These mount on a frame that then sits on a couple of pedastals.
I have cut this frame about and bolted straight to the rocker covers which allowed me to move it towards the rear and make clearance for the water pipes.
the next task was sorting out the clutch operation...
AK Sports cars ( Jon) came to my rescue here....
They supplied a new machined cover that replaces the QUAIFFE cover over the input shaft.
This allows a GM centre thrust to slide over.
This is the kit that they use for thier Coyote engine install.
The only change I had to do was to remove another 2.5 mm from the step to allow the thrust to sit closer to the box.
For a reason i dont know the engine sits very close to the bulkhead and the trumpets are nearly touching the rear glass,
I am going to have to take a sliver off the trumpet for clearance.
As the the whole power plant is sat on rubbers there will be some forward movement of the engine under braking.
I am sure this will cause some form of contact with the chassis.
To overcome this I have added a brace longitudily between the engine and chassis.
I was able to pick up on a 1/2 UNC thread already on the engine and just had to weld in a 1/2 unf boss to locate a couple of rod ends.
This will still allow the engine to move about on its rubbers but will stop forward movement..
Pictures attached below.
also had too tight a fit for the coil on plug coils against the water pipes to the swirl pot.
These mount on a frame that then sits on a couple of pedastals.
I have cut this frame about and bolted straight to the rocker covers which allowed me to move it towards the rear and make clearance for the water pipes.
the next task was sorting out the clutch operation...
AK Sports cars ( Jon) came to my rescue here....
They supplied a new machined cover that replaces the QUAIFFE cover over the input shaft.
This allows a GM centre thrust to slide over.
This is the kit that they use for thier Coyote engine install.
The only change I had to do was to remove another 2.5 mm from the step to allow the thrust to sit closer to the box.
Attachments
Next job on my list is to tackle the exhaust headers / bundle of snakes..
To help me out i 3 d printed loads of 22.5 degree bends in the correct dia mand made them a clip fit to each other.
The plan is to mock up and then cut and weld stainless tube taken form 90 degree bends...
1st job was to weld up the collectors to the silencers and get them in correct position to clear the body work.
then to mock up the right side with 3 d bits.
then to replace each bit with stainless steel tube and tack in position.
To help me out i 3 d printed loads of 22.5 degree bends in the correct dia mand made them a clip fit to each other.
The plan is to mock up and then cut and weld stainless tube taken form 90 degree bends...
1st job was to weld up the collectors to the silencers and get them in correct position to clear the body work.
then to mock up the right side with 3 d bits.
then to replace each bit with stainless steel tube and tack in position.
Attachments
And now onto the left hand side...
I have also been asked how i make up the exhaust stubs thet bolt to the head so I have included a few pictures.
I square off the tube in a vice until nice fit in manifold.
then tig 4 sides, then heat to cherry red and tap into corners, then seam weld, then weld on outer but missing out bolt holes, then clean up inside with carbide bit the file / machine flat surface for head mounting.
left hand side all mocked up with 3 d printed bits..
colours mean nothing... just used the filament i had to hand..
I have also been asked how i make up the exhaust stubs thet bolt to the head so I have included a few pictures.
I square off the tube in a vice until nice fit in manifold.
then tig 4 sides, then heat to cherry red and tap into corners, then seam weld, then weld on outer but missing out bolt holes, then clean up inside with carbide bit the file / machine flat surface for head mounting.
left hand side all mocked up with 3 d printed bits..
colours mean nothing... just used the filament i had to hand..
Attachments
A very professional looking job. Congrats!!!
Regards Brian
Regards Brian
Thanks brian , Lets hope i dont screw it up when i tig the joints... I'm not the neatest welder by a long way....
Jerry
exhaust nearly finnished.. just have to weld on tabs to hold pipes into collectors.
After welding up all joints the pipes had moved a little bit resulting in not fitting into collectors...
I did not put enough tacks on joints..
also i should have rechecked alignment after perhaps each weld joint...#resulted in having to cut off pipes a couple of welds before collectors and remaking...PIA !!
ANYWAY.. SOME PICTURES ATTACHED...
After welding up all joints the pipes had moved a little bit resulting in not fitting into collectors...
I did not put enough tacks on joints..
also i should have rechecked alignment after perhaps each weld joint...#resulted in having to cut off pipes a couple of welds before collectors and remaking...PIA !!
ANYWAY.. SOME PICTURES ATTACHED...
Attachments
So the question I ask... was it worth it ? money and time... ?
Well time is my own so no charge there.
I used :
2 x 20 litres of argon...........................£300
4 x 2.2 litres of argon ( purging )...£100
37 x 90 degree bends.........................£555
2 x 45 degree bends...........................£28
2 x 180 degree bends........................£36
2 x 4 into 1 collectors........................£107
2 x v bands............................................£28
2 x stainless head flanges...............£35
1 x weld in bung................................£6
40 weld rods.......................................£10
8 x reducer tubes.............................£90
2 x reducer tubes............................£30
total.......£1,316
I reckon it was worth it !!
My welding not the most glamourous but i think its fit for purpose.
I did a pressure test on each of the completed pipes ( blocked off one end, blew compressed air down other and then squirted soapy water over all the joints.
I don't know what the going fee is to have this all made but the main advantage is that it fits my car !
I hope the pictures may help any one else considering a DIY exhaust.
Forgot to add..
the silencers are from AK Sports cars..
Jerry
Well time is my own so no charge there.
I used :
2 x 20 litres of argon...........................£300
4 x 2.2 litres of argon ( purging )...£100
37 x 90 degree bends.........................£555
2 x 45 degree bends...........................£28
2 x 180 degree bends........................£36
2 x 4 into 1 collectors........................£107
2 x v bands............................................£28
2 x stainless head flanges...............£35
1 x weld in bung................................£6
40 weld rods.......................................£10
8 x reducer tubes.............................£90
2 x reducer tubes............................£30
total.......£1,316
I reckon it was worth it !!
My welding not the most glamourous but i think its fit for purpose.
I did a pressure test on each of the completed pipes ( blocked off one end, blew compressed air down other and then squirted soapy water over all the joints.
I don't know what the going fee is to have this all made but the main advantage is that it fits my car !
I hope the pictures may help any one else considering a DIY exhaust.
Forgot to add..
the silencers are from AK Sports cars..
Jerry
Neil
Supporter
"Worth" is not always judged by $, it can be valuable for the pride & satisfaction of having actually done it.
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