Alright you RCR guys.. What would you do different with your build
- Thread starter Chatas1
- Start date
Jim, Nothing really needs to be changed from "as delivered". Many of us have done some styling additions/radical changes (Mesa). I have made an additional air scoop for the race tail, overlayed some parts with carbon fiber, etc. Because of my injured back, I am modifying the RCR seats. Oh, I did add fender vents, and they "belong" on this car! So, it's really what you wish to do, and how much of it you can competently accomplish yourself without breaking the bank.
Jack's fender vents are trick. If/When I repaint my SLC, I may do something similar.
My hindsight is 20/20 tips:
Do as much research up front with what you want out of your build. I focused mainly on the big ticket items: engine, trans, ecu.
I didn't spend enough time thinking through many of the other medium and smaller details.
For example:
1) heat/AC: Re-did heater blower, hoses, and ac lines to gain legroom in the cabin.
2) fuel system: Decide on the pump, surge tank, and what brand of AN lines you want to use. My pumps are fine, but I've now replaced my surge tank (due to leak, but it was an excuse to go with the tank I originally wanted but couldn't stomach the price at the time), and am replacing every one of my fuel lines to a brand I am more comfortable with. Expensive lesson.
3) cooling hoses: Replaced my cooling lines w/hard ss tubing.
4) dry sump: I wish I had thought about it harder 6mos ago. Too late to start over now if I want to drive it this season. This will be a winter project if I feel the same at the time so I won't mind my car being down a few months as I want to keep my AC so there will be fabricating involved. No slicks on the road course for me this summer.
5) seats: The stock seats are great, but if you are looking for a reclinable performance seat or another option, it is not a trivial decision. Research now.
6) wiring layout: Really think about space, and more importantly future access. My initial layout was fine, but due to #1, I have to make some choices to find some different mounting locations.
7) powdercoating: Think about all of the pieces you want powdercoated so you can get them all done at the same time. Much cheaper that way.
You're doing the right thing by starting a thread like this. Get friendly w/other builders offline as well. Will, Allan, Rob, Jack, Wayne, Peter and others have been very helpful with idea sharing, plus all good guys to boot.
HTH
I'm afraid to ask.... Do tell!
Story of my life.... Every car I build I get use to the power after a few rides. I think for this one I will play it cool. 400-425 tops. That should make for a nice power to weight ratio. Don't you think? More HP=More $'s.
Get ready guys, I will light this forum on fire once I start this project! For now, I will continue to research and watch youtube videos of GT40's. Anyone live in the Detroit area? I wouldn't mind seeing a finished RCR car. Hell, I wouldn't mind going for a ride in one. Hint.... Hint...
Jack's fender vents are trick. If/When I repaint my SLC, I may do something similar.
My hindsight is 20/20 tips:
Do as much research up front with what you want out of your build. I focused mainly on the big ticket items: engine, trans, ecu.
I didn't spend enough time thinking through many of the other medium and smaller details.
For example:
1) heat/AC: Re-did heater blower, hoses, and ac lines to gain legroom in the cabin.
2) fuel system: Decide on the pump, surge tank, and what brand of AN lines you want to use. My pumps are fine, but I've now replaced my surge tank (due to leak, but it was an excuse to go with the tank I originally wanted but couldn't stomach the price at the time), and am replacing every one of my fuel lines to a brand I am more comfortable with. Expensive lesson.
3) cooling hoses: Replaced my cooling lines w/hard ss tubing.
4) dry sump: I wish I had thought about it harder 6mos ago. Too late to start over now if I want to drive it this season. This will be a winter project if I feel the same at the time so I won't mind my car being down a few months as I want to keep my AC so there will be fabricating involved. No slicks on the road course for me this summer.
5) seats: The stock seats are great, but if you are looking for a reclinable performance seat or another option, it is not a trivial decision. Research now.
6) wiring layout: Really think about space, and more importantly future access. My initial layout was fine, but due to #1, I have to make some choices to find some different mounting locations.
7) powdercoating: Think about all of the pieces you want powdercoated so you can get them all done at the same time. Much cheaper that way.
You're doing the right thing by starting a thread like this. Get friendly w/other builders offline as well. Will, Allan, Rob, Jack, Wayne, Peter and others have been very helpful with idea sharing, plus all good guys to boot.
HTH
Now you've got me thinking and your answers have raised even more questions:
2) What surge tank did you ultimately choose and why? Same with the fuel lines? BTW, is a surge tank necessary if a fuel cell is used?
5) What reclinable seats have people tried?
6) Is wiring placement an issue anymore with the implementation of the ISIS system?
7) What items do people recommend powdercoating?
Steve
Fuel lines could be braided stainless like Aeroquip or pushlock type. Both work well. I'm using a combination of both. Surge tank may not be needed if you build a sump in your tank. If you use a surge tank, make it at least 1/2 gallon capacity.
Not aware of anyone using reclining seats but several are using sliders.
Wiring is not a big issue with ISIS as long as the primary components are mounted in the assigned areas as spelled out in the instructions.
For the street tail, nothing really. Just personal taste. For the race tail, the diffuser
and wing support panels if you don't paint them or leave aluminum.
This all is my opinion though..
Not aware of anyone using reclining seats but several are using sliders.
Wiring is not a big issue with ISIS as long as the primary components are mounted in the assigned areas as spelled out in the instructions.
For the street tail, nothing really. Just personal taste. For the race tail, the diffuser
and wing support panels if you don't paint them or leave aluminum.
This all is my opinion though..
A favorite quote from Monte Barrett, builder of racing engines for aircraft: "The internal combustion engine is a mechanical device of insufficient power."
JR
Tom, I am planning on building a GT40. I noticed that you have an FFR. I built one of those a few years back. I really enjoyed it. This one seems a little more intense but I'm up for it!
Jim,
So far the most 'intense' part has been dealing with the long wait and endless phone calls to followup on ordered parts.
Aside from that, compared to the Cobra you are dealing with a car that needs to be setup more precise due to its speed and handling potential. If you want to do it right, the body work and paint prep will also require extra attention, so figure that into your budget if you won't be tackling that portion of the build. Speaking of budget, add about 20% more for the surprises, hardware, registration, licensing, insurance, and if you're starting from scratch, extra hardware, specialized tools, alignment equipment, scales, and so on.
Once you get your car, I have many tips to offer, but too much to list here. Feel free to send a PM.
Tom
2) I have the ATL swirl pot now. If your fuel cell has a well designed sump, you may not need a surge tank, but ymmv. I'm replacing everything w/Aeroquip. Plenty of other good options too. It's just a matter of comfort, aesthetics, and uniformity with my engine bay scheme.
6) It's not an issue w/new Isis setup as far as I know.
7) I powdercoated all of my steel bars/tabs/brackets/hinges and door handles. Not necessary per se, but my point is to get it all done at the same time, since it's cheaper that way.
Jim,
Not sure if you got my last post as it was pulled out for some reason. My apologies to those I offended.
Tom
Not sure if you got my last post as it was pulled out for some reason. My apologies to those I offended.
Tom
Nothing to worry about Jim...you did not miss anything
Howard Jones
Supporter
The most important single system in a high power mid engine car is the gearbox. The two really big deals are the gear ratios, and a limmited slip.
Without going into them deeper, just be sure you are completely versed on why you want the gear ratios that are in the box and what type of limmited slip is in it. The information on both of these issues are all here in the gearbox page.
I personally really like the Quaife that is in my GT40 and the regeared ratios that make it a true 5 speed.
The other thing to do right the first time is the clutch. Add 50% to you target torque and install a clutch to cope with the higher number.
PUT A FIRE SYSTEM IN THE CAR!!!!!!!! A small fuel fire will destroy your $100K toy in less than a minute. On high presure FI engines, I would add a fuel pump cutoff switch that turns off the pump if the car hits something hard enough. Frankly all cars should have one. Mine will, even with a Holley on it.
Power..........5 to 1 power to weight ratio is enough. 500 hp in a 2500 pound car is FAST!!!! Any extra money in the budget should be spent on brakes and tires. Think Frans #1 SLC. MUCH quicker than the rest, many with 100s of hp more. It's all about the grip baby!
I would get the adjustible anit roll bars on a SLC track car from Fran as well as a cage that included door bars. Also get the race areo parts. spliter, wing, fender vents for a track car.
On a street car think about the spring lifts for the front.
OH.....on a track car do a nice cheap paintjob. Couple of K$ or less. If you put a $10K + paintjob on a track car you will wish you didn't. On a street car think about that clear coating plastic stuff that covers the paint on the front of the car. For that matter why not do it on both. That stuff really saves the paint on a low car like a GT40 and others like a SLC.
Without going into them deeper, just be sure you are completely versed on why you want the gear ratios that are in the box and what type of limmited slip is in it. The information on both of these issues are all here in the gearbox page.
I personally really like the Quaife that is in my GT40 and the regeared ratios that make it a true 5 speed.
The other thing to do right the first time is the clutch. Add 50% to you target torque and install a clutch to cope with the higher number.
PUT A FIRE SYSTEM IN THE CAR!!!!!!!! A small fuel fire will destroy your $100K toy in less than a minute. On high presure FI engines, I would add a fuel pump cutoff switch that turns off the pump if the car hits something hard enough. Frankly all cars should have one. Mine will, even with a Holley on it.
Power..........5 to 1 power to weight ratio is enough. 500 hp in a 2500 pound car is FAST!!!! Any extra money in the budget should be spent on brakes and tires. Think Frans #1 SLC. MUCH quicker than the rest, many with 100s of hp more. It's all about the grip baby!
I would get the adjustible anit roll bars on a SLC track car from Fran as well as a cage that included door bars. Also get the race areo parts. spliter, wing, fender vents for a track car.
On a street car think about the spring lifts for the front.
OH.....on a track car do a nice cheap paintjob. Couple of K$ or less. If you put a $10K + paintjob on a track car you will wish you didn't. On a street car think about that clear coating plastic stuff that covers the paint on the front of the car. For that matter why not do it on both. That stuff really saves the paint on a low car like a GT40 and others like a SLC.
